Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor switch, no neutral required, 600 Watts Single-Pole/Multi Location, MS-OPS5M-AL, Almond
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There are products available for two light switches (3-way switch). four-way switch) and three light switches (four-way switch). way. ) For these, you'll need to purchase the appropriate sensor, as well as one or two companion switches if you want more than one. The model numbers and wiring instructions you require can be found on their website.
It all depends on how the Lutron is set up. You can program it to turn off with ambient light, timed turn off with movement, or simply turn on with movement. I have two, but will most likely relocate the one in my office, which is timed for three minutes with ambient light. The reading light will turn off when you are sitting at your desk. It's not a big deal; all I have to do is wave my hand in the air. It immediately turns back on.
To compensate, I have two of these, one at the top and one at the bottom of the stairs. They make an audible clicking sound, and I can tell the one at the top of the stairs won't turn on until my head is nearly horizontal with the switch.
Selected User Reviews For Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor switch, no neutral required, 600 Watts Single-Pole/Multi Location, MS-OPS5M-AL, Almond
Update: The first day of August in the year 2013: Added a caveat to clarify what will NOT work, formatted for ease of reading, and to consider why there are so few votes: It makes no difference as long as it benefits others, which is why we write reviews and share information. br>br>Journey/Mistakes: br>I'd been attempting to use Leviton's ODS- I'd like to make a multi-player game. While Leviton set-up a location sensor, for example, across the stairwell, Up works, but for reasons unknown to me or Leviton's Support, sensors turn on lights even when the sun is shining brightly. As a result, I was on the lookout for a different option. br>br>Solution with a Proviso: br>Lutron does not publish, and their support for the multi-player game has been withdrawn. Sensor that detects when a room is occupied. I posted a photo of a wiring diagram as "to be tested," but I can now confirm that "it DOES WORK. " The light/load must be turned off using both switches, which must timeout or be manually turned off. Aside from that, it takes care of everything; in the past year, I've never had to manually turn off lights. HOW TO: br>br>HOW TO: br>br>HOW TO: br>br>HO br>Again, please see my diagram for more information. So, if you want to wire a three-phase power supply, you'll need to As you may be aware, there are two sides to every story. The HOT SIDE is the wire that goes to the load, while the LEG/LOAD SIDE is the wire that goes to the load. TWO Traveler wires are used to connect the two sides. br>br>HOT LOCATIONS: br>br>HOT LOCATIONS: br>br> Turn off breaker, open box, disconnect all wires from existing switch, turn on breaker, check line/power, mark hot wire, turn off, and proceed with sensor connectivitybr>br>HOT SIDE (refer diagram)br>========================================================= Sensor Traveler Wire A - Black (top)Traveler B - White (bottom) bare copper ground - black (bottom)br> bare silver greenbr>br>LEG SIDEbr>================================================================== Sensorbr>Traveler B - Black (on the top) br>Bare Copper Ground - Black (Bottom) Load Green - bare silverbr>br>Blue - bare silverbr>br>Brown - bare silverbr>br DISCLAIMER: The two sides are not connected. br>br> I am just an engineer and a homeowner with a passion for automation, not an electrician, so what worked for me may or may not work for you depending on wiring and other factors. If in doubt, contact a LICENSED authority known as an Electrician. br>br>As always, I'd be delighted to answer any questions. Although the resolution isn't great after Amazon conversion, I posted this image with colored wires to ensure clarity. Leave your email address and I'll send you a link to a high-resolution printable pdf file from my personal cloud.
I have a single pole 250 watt (MS-250) power supply. OPS2- WH) and a 600w three-phase power supply way (MS- OPS5M- WH), so this is a review for both of them. br>br>I've had these for about a month and am extremely pleased with them. I installed one in a hallway, and it's very useful for walking in at night. I put the other one in the laundry room, which is convenient for bringing in laundry. br>br>Even though I'm not an electrician, I had no trouble installing them. Simply follow the directions and double-check that you comprehend everything. If you still don't get it, watch some more YouTube videos or hire a professional electrician. I purchased a non-alcoholic beverage. While I was working on the lines, I used a contact voltage tester (Fluke brand) to make sure there was no current in them. You'll almost certainly need a new switch plate as well. A ground wire is required, so make sure you have one in your switch box before purchasing. If you don't have a bare copper wire, it might not be worth the trouble to get one installed. br>br>I have them set to turn on automatically after one minute and turn off automatically after that. They always turn on as soon as I walk into the room, and I've never seen one turn on without someone else present. One of them is pointing to a window with trees blowing in the breeze and birds flying by, so the sensitivity is just right. The sensitivity can be changed to a lower level than the default, as well as to manual on and auto off for situations where you want to control the light but not leave it on. br>br>They're supposed to turn off if there's enough light, but I've never had that happen. They always turn on, even though the rooms I have them in don't get much sunlight, so perhaps it just thinks they're dark enough all of the time. It's also supposed to learn how much sunlight is too much by turning it off manually, but I'm not seeing that. Perhaps they simply require more time. br>br>When they turn on and off, there is an audible click. It is only slightly louder than turning on a light switch. This is likely due to the fact that they turn the power on and off using a relay. This is beneficial because some other brands use a technique that keeps a small amount of current flowing through the light even when it is turned off. Fluorescent and LED lights are frequently affected by this. The Lutron switches are not affected by this, and they should work with any light. I have had no problems using them with CFLs and larger fluorescent lights. MS-br>br>MS-br>MS-br>MS-br>MS-br>MS OPS2- Details about the WH: If your light only has one switch and is less than 250 watts, this is the one you'll want. The on/off click is slightly quieter than the 600w switch, in addition to being less expensive. MS-br>br>MS-br>MS-br>MS-br>MS-br>MS OPS5M- Details about the WH: br>This is for 3 people. way (two switches for one light) and/or a power consumption of more than 250 watts but less than 600 watts Even though the other regular switch is no longer in use, I used this one to keep it operational. This can be included in a three-part series. In order to set up the way switch, you'll need an extra wire nut, which isn't included with the regular switch. One thing to consider when putting it to the test is the following: To test the operation of a regular switch, you cannot use the test setting (15 second timeout). The timer resets to five minutes after you use either switch. If you use the motion sensor and the regular switch at the same time, you might get some strange results, but for the most part, either switch can turn on or off the light. The on/off click is a tad louder than the 250w switch, as previously stated. Other reviewers have reported success when using two of these switches in a three-way configuration. Although it is possible to set up in this manner, it is not officially supported.
It is necessary to expand the troubleshooting guide. I was in charge of two in-house projects. I wanted to replace the light switches on the walls with motion sensors. It turned out that I didn't have a white neutral wire on hand, and the ones that are available are limited. One is a Leviton model, and the other is a Lutron model. I think the Lutron is a little nicer in terms of aesthetics. br>br>One criticism I have is that, while the documentation is excellent, it could be slightly improved, particularly in the troubleshooting notes. I'll also include a Question and Answer section for this product, as I believe it will assist some other customers in the same situation as me last night. br>br>I've got a three-year-old daughter. a two-way set-up (with two switch locations) As a result, I had to connect the Lutron switch's colored wires. There are two black wires that come out of the Lutron. They aren't labeled in any way. However, the concept is that you go to your load/live (e. g. One connects to one of the "traveller" wires that runs to your other light switch (the light fixture/breaker panel), while the other connects to one of the "traveller" wires that runs to your other light switch. So I connected everything and (almost) everything seemed to work fine; I could turn on or off the light by turning on or off the other switch, for example. Despite the fact that the motion detector turned on the light, the Lutron switch would not time-out and turn off the light when the timer ran out. The troubleshooting guide is lacking in information about potential issues, and I found no mention of this on the internet. My a- The idea of simply swapping the two black wires on the Lutron switch occurred to me. (It's worth noting that the Lutron manual suggests swapping the traveller wires if one switch isn't toggling the light that the other switch just toggled, but this is unrelated to a time-out failure. ) ) Thank you for your help!.
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