ELEGRP Occupancy Motion Sensor Light Switch, PIR Infrared Motion Activated Wall Switch, No Neutral Wire, Single Pole for CFL/LED/Incandescent Bulb, Wall Plate Included, UL Listed (1 Pack, Matte White)

As per the instruction set, I was to have A single-player game is not feasible This pole instruction set explains how to use it. It was being powered by two black wires coming from the wall. I am not an electrician or familiar with home wiring, so I don't know how to deal with the problem. Be sure to turn off the electricity in the room at your breaker box before leaving the room. Follow the instructions thoroughly, more than once, and read the instructions several times! 2) I did not. The black wall wire was connected to the black wire of the unit, and the other black wire was connected to the red and black wire of the unit. Additionally, green to ground is always a good choice. One of the units comes in green, one in red, and two in here's how it worked On the wall, I connected one black wire from the SWITCH to one red wire from the switch. You're right, that's what I meant. On one of the orange caps, there were three wires connected. In spite of the fact that I wasn't sure which black wire was which, nothing bad happened when I initially reversed them. My wires were connected several times in various configurations before I got it right with the power on (since I wasn't paying attention enough) and nothing The dials were set by using a small screwdriver as follows A full left, a full right, and a full right can be read on the dials of the unit reading left to right, such as a test, sensitivity, and OCC. Here is some information that may be helpful.

Mason Ayala

| Dec 23, 2020

Here are the three occupancy sensors that I purchased This is Leviton. TDP 02, TOPGREENER (TDOS 5- A sticker is attached to the BLUE POLICE occupancy sensor and THE SIGNAL POTS ARE STICKED). TOPGREENER utilizes, not only, an easier installation process due to the ability to switch between (load and line), but it does not have a light sensory In addition to having more features, it costs more as well. There is a light sensitivity feature on the ELEGRP, but the switch is too big and can't be fitted into a double or multiple-gang faceplate. In this case, if you are using it for light plates which is what it comes with, then it will be It is a true 180° angle, but not a precise one. *br /*br / *br / **Leviton IPS02 possesses all the features of the other two, as well as any features that are not offered in the other There is also a time control and range sensitivity with all three. In order for them to work, a ground wire must be connected otherwise they cannot be turned Also, they are not required to have neutral wires.

Bentlee Mack

| Nov 23, 2020

My garage door was not lit from the light switch in our utility room, so we had to go into the utility room through the dark garage. It was possible to reach a light switch in the utility room, but it was at the top of a wall that was too high for a ladder. Getting into our house at night required you to enter a dark utility room, which was just outside of the main entryway. In the beginning, my plan was to add a switch in the garage that activated the light in the utility room when it was turned on. One switch would be used to turn off the light in the utility room as I exit the To carry out this project, new electrical wiring would be required and the existing two-switch box would be replaced with a three-switch Yes, this is a doable project, but it is I had to figure out a way to run the wiring inside the walls. We were able to solve the problem QUICKLY and EASILY with a sensor switch! A sensor switch was installed in the utility room in place of the one switch that was there. Since I installed the motion sensor so that the utility room light will turn on automatically when I enter from the garage and turn off automatically after I leave! I did not need to replace the wiring or the switchboxes! That's exactly what I needed!.

Amoura Vazquez

| Mar 11, 2021

I am not an electrician and have no interest in messing with AC current anyway. In the end, I was able to turn off the power and install the switch after flipping the breaker (cutting the electrical power). My house was built in 1977, yet I still have a lot of unused space. My move-in date was September 15, but I checked the old switch to see if a ground was present before ordering this. It turns out there was some shiny copper in the back of the tiny old switch box, so I assumed it was the ground for the switch (it was). You will likely not realize it, but every light switch has two black wires attached to it if your house is like mine. The LINE is comprised of a single wire, and the LOAD is composed of a second wire. The SOURCE of AC current, along with the DESTINATION, is essentially what this means, without getting into the physics. It is not a precise physical description, but, rather, a metaphor that makes sense logistically. This is the #1 BONUS There is no need to connect a 'neutral' to this switch. The 'white' wires in the box do not have to be cut. That was a big plus for me, since this little switch box was a major junction for the rest of my house. . . Anyway, the first step was to remove the old switch from the box (after cutting the power, of course). As a result, it became apparent what LINE and what LOAD were. My LINE was almost all connected, and I had a couple of wires that went to the garage lights I wanted to control - There was a little time delay, however, because I had to disconnect the old switch, which was almost as old as I was, I had to turn to the ground at that point. On the back of my switch box (behind all of the white wires) was a lot of shiny copper. screwdriver that I used to remove the old plate and switch to pull the wires forward, then wrapped the green wire (right handed so the nuts would engage) around the end of the wire collection for the ground wire, and screwed Here's the bonus There are 3 wire nuts included, which help avoid short circuits since they are long and slender When you screw them on, they are fairly sturdy. As I said earlier, it was acting a little weird, at first. That is because the switch, the lights, and the breaker box are Having seen what happened when I turned on the breaker, I knew what to do. It took only a few seconds for the lights to come back on, then they went off and then came back on again. Within two minutes, all of this has been accomplished. There is a suggestion on another site that you should allow the switch to 'boot'. The great news is that everything has been working properly after the 'boot' period. The thought tickles me to no end. We have been dealing with this garage light problem since we bought our house almost 22 years ago, and something so simple has had an amazing impact on our lives. I'm so glad I found this site! I can't express how excited my wife is despite her skepticism. The comment she made was, 'It works!' She then asked me to turn the light on in the laundry room for her immediately. In an effort to please her, I offered to do the same thing for the laundry room if she liked the garage. Here's BOONUS It is still possible to manually turn on and off your lights. In the descriptions, I wasn't sure how to do this If your settings are both ON AND OFF, you can use the 'buttons' for turning both your lights on AND off. The motion sensor lights will not start immediately after you manually turn them off, and this makes sense since it takes 30 seconds for the light to turn on again after you manually turn them off.

Peyton Payne

| Oct 12, 2020