Dumonde Tech Original Bicycle Chain Lubrication
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Thanks for stopping by! The product is what I use for brake and shifter cables on my older bikes that still have non-metallic cables We can also specify linings for cable housings as well as cable/housing systems that become sluggish over time. I like it. Recently, Bikepacking D O T com filmed a video in which they reviewed this lube and others, and stated that this was their personal preference when dealing with dusty or challenging conditions for their The stuff has been very helpful to me since 2 years ago, mostly because it's a fast and simple way to manage the two types of stuff I ride in desert conditions, full of dust and sand.
It depends on what derailleur manufacturer you follow. Dumonde says it is fine, but you might want to follow their The other side of that is that this stuff is amazing for bike chains - I use it on all mine. This product is for sale. thing to keep in mind is that you need to thoroughly clean the chain The best way for me to remove both oil based and wax based lubes is to use paint thinner as a solvent. I wish you success.
There is a protective coating that forms inside the rollers once this stuff is dried. In order to use this lube successfully, it is imperative that the chain is thoroughly cleaned of all other lubricants. The process of applying can be viewed in various videos on YouTube. If your chain begins to make a little noise, use this lube. It should not be applied every time you ride.
If I were applying it, I would do so in a well ventilated area. Aroma is almost as strong as oil paint, but the smell disappears after a couple of
Selected User Reviews For Dumonde Tech Original Bicycle Chain Lubrication
It's amazing how good this stuff is! Cycling has been a lifelong hobby for me, and I've used countless chain lube products and strategies over the years. The riding I do at the moment is 90% off-road These days, it's a challenge to drive on the road. Please note Early spring to late fall is the season for desert dust and dusty gravel from the Sierra Nevada mountains, which coats your bike and everything you ride - including you- Changing your chain is adversely affected by the dust ingested, which makes it squeal loudly and adversely affects shifting. Please note In winter, there is snow and ice and sand/salt on the roads, so we are using my other lubes (spritz or drop) When I ride drop by drop, I will only get "fewer than one ride" (dry lube varieties) before "chain squeak" sets in and shifting becomes difficult I would get no more than three rides before shifting becomes inaudible. I spent a lot of time with Teflon There is nothing better than wet lubricant. The same conditions that I have been riding in now put me After only 1 month on the original lube application, my shifting is still excellent, there is no excessive chain noise, and my bike and clothing have been coated with the chain eating dust I mentioned. So we are on the right track! In my case, my shifters are Shimano 2x10 that are 6 months old, so they already had some wear on them. The lube let them shift like "new", that is quiet and reliable, and shifting is now quiet and fast as well. My drivetrain was already in hard use so although I kept it clean and serviced and lubricated, I didn't exactly follow the directions on the bottle as others have suggested (though I would have if the drivetrain was brand new). It is simply soap and low water pressure that I use The usual procedure for cleaning the chain/drivetrain is to use pressure hose water. My next step was to dry it and run it through a used rag I use for drivetrains to give it a light oil coating to prevent any rust. The next morning, I reversed the pedals and applied liberal amounts of this lube before wiping off any excess. Leaving the chain and jockey wheels to sit overnight, I then ran the chain and wheels through a clean, fresh rag to remove any remaining lube. From just this process, I could already tell there was less friction in the drive train. I load up and headed out for a 5-mile run A dusty desert ride takes about an hour. My jaw dropped when I heard the difference in drive train noise and shifting between the two cars. I went for a quick look at my ride after it was over, and it felt nice and quiet Dust had accumulated on the sides of the chain of the poorly performing drivetrain. We then did quite a bit of water sports It was necessary only to rinse the bike off, dry it, and use the same rag for getting excess oil off of the jockey wheel and chain. In the two weeks following, I have repeated the water-testing twice more - one after the other, with dusty rides. The only - You should hose the bike down, allow it to dry, and then rag it Clean the chain and the jockey wheels and just go riding. I'm waiting to hear the squeaking when the chain catches on something. My vehicle has been driven off-road over 200 miles in dusty conditions with the same amount of lubricant and I have not heard squeaking or seen any degradation in shifts. As stated on the lube containers' directions (and their website), you are supposed to wait to hear the chain before applying lube, so I will, but in the meantime, I wonder how long it is possible to get away with just using the original application under these This product has definitely made my day! Of course your mileage may vary, but I am very happy with it!.
That is the best lube ever. After testing out many types of lube, I finally found one to use over a long period of time (i. e. , I used the lube for a while, then the lube became ineffective). I applied to all of them (rather than having to submit the application to all riders), but didn't really get into any of them. The fact that there are other great lubes doesn't mean this one is the only one out there. It is evident that some work better than others in different conditions, and I have not tried them all. In spite of this, I have tried a few wax lubes, some teflon lubes, and some regular old Finish Line lubes. This lube, for me, is the best and lasts the longest in virtually any situation. The only thing I've had to change is the lube when it is wet over when it is dry I apply one drop/link probably every 5 days. Usually you will need to apply after six rides, but it really depends on how long each one is. Therefore, the results may vary depending on the individual.
This lube needs to be applied just one drop per link, right on the roller, as others have said. After running the chain through the gears, let it sit for a while, and then wipe it with a cloth. The black buildup on the chain is still there, but if you wipe the excess off before riding, it will be easily removed. AGLOUGH, I have not tried all lubes, and I am sure there are others out there that work just as well. The fact is, there may be a lube that works even better for me, but for now, this is the best I have found, and I have no real need It's a good read.
I continue to use this regularly and it lasts quite a while. I've been using it for a number of years. As a bike mechanic, I have used a number of different types of bike lubes Whether it's dry, moist, Teflon, etc. , this stuff works perfectly. I ride in dry and wet conditions and it keeps my shoe from sticking to the rim. In order to build a good chain, it is important to start from the beginning. Cleaning it with degreaser is a good idea. Water should be used to wash. Once it dries, it is ready to use. You should then find the chain link (where the chain is put together) and place a drop per link all the way around it. It only takes one Chains should not be soaked or sprayed without a care. You then need to spin it a few times so that any residue is removed. As long as the conditions are normal, it usually.
Review the instructions and see what other reviewers have to say about application tips. In the right hands, this stuff can do a lot of good. In the past, I've used BoeShield, ProGold, FinishLine, Pedro's, and many others These are all good products, but if you follow the directions and apply the product according to the directions, this one is the best. In the past two years, I have gone through one bottle. My procedure is to go through three A chain is cut every four years (one chain is cut every four years) Over their lifetime, these chains will create 8 chains. Wears out more quickly on the mountain). It's a multi-faceted career for me A purchaser for one year.
Paying $20 was a difficult decision for me. And my God, what a relief it was. Lubrication and penetration are both involved in this process. This spray is not just used for bicycle chains, but for anything that needs to be lubricated. My intention is to have more of this bottle when the one from the show runs out. So long as this oil is still on the market, I will continue purchasing it.
Plastic that sticks to your skin- There are certain clear coatings that last many rides before they need to be reapplied There is a need to apply. In the past, I would have to relube and replace the cheap Triflow stuff every two or three weeks. Toutes the drive-train parts turned into a gunky mess due to the wax lubes. As a result of this, I am going around once per month (as a 150-person group) We ride about 200 miles per week, and there is no excess gunk or residue on the chain or derailleur pulley.
After researching waxes and other lubes, I settled for the Original formula and I can't be happier with it. The chain on my friend's bike started squeaking and grunting about 70 miles in, my chain remained silent for the entire ride, 102 miles and 7,000 feet of elevation gained.
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