Accusize Industrial Tools 1'' Dia, M42 8% Cobalt Tialn Roughing End Mill, Coarse Tooth, 1'' Shk Dia, 2'' Flt Length, 4-1/2'' Oal, 5 Flute, 1102-0001
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Yes. One cutting edge extends all the way to the center of the end surface, as shown in the end view image. This enables the mill to plunge cut like a drill, though pointed drills are preferable if you don't require a flat bottom hole or are just getting started with hollowing out an area. All of the end flutes on end mills that aren't center-cut are arranged outside the center, so they cut mostly straight sideways.
Made in China and of excellent quality. Thanks
It depends on the size of your drill press chuck (most only go up to 3/4"), but I've used the 1/2" one that came with my drill press to work with aluminum. You must determine the speed of your rpms. It is preferable to move as quickly as possible. My mill only goes up to 1800 rpms, which is still slow and causes the piece you're milling to vibrate (wobble). So yes. For materials that are softer. However, the finish isn't as good or as smooth as it would be with a milling machine (due to the higher speeds).
Please accept my apologies for not being able to locate my. Right now, it's worth $75 million. It doesn't matter in the end, though. Because no material is removed between the points, the cut material will be slightly oversize due to the grooves. Because the points and grooves on each flute do not align with the other flutes, the oversize is not nearly as great as the groove depth. To put it another way, what one flute doesn't remove, another will, resulting in a much smoother finish than the screw-through method. such as the tool's threads If you need more material removed, measure your part and use the same roughing mill or a plain finish mill to make a second cutting pass. I intentionally left the roughing mill's ripple finish on parts I've made because I think it's attractive.
Selected User Reviews For Accusize Industrial Tools 1'' Dia, M42 8% Cobalt Tialn Roughing End Mill, Coarse Tooth, 1'' Shk Dia, 2'' Flt Length, 4-1/2'' Oal, 5 Flute, 1102-0001
With the ease and precision of my ex-colleague, he cuts steel like a hot tank through butter. The subtlety of my humor, as well as the plastic surgeon who treats my wife. But super stoked on the end mill, top notch performance, just like my ex-boyfriend. May she perish in her husband's arms. Jk 😉.
I'm so used to carbide tooling that it took me a while to realize this cutter wasn't one until I checked my previous orders. This is something I've done with steel, aluminum, and a few plastics. It seems to cut through everything like butter, and I haven't had any issues with it getting stuck in the flutes. It leaves a fairly smooth finish on the surface. The groves on one flute do not align with the same groove on the next flute, resulting in a smoother surface than you might expect. Will buy more - These cutters are less than half the price of a good quality carbide cutter of the same size (note that I said good quality). I've had a couple of carbide endmills from Amazon that were pretty bad.
This rougher has me blown away. On aluminum, I've clogged and worn out more expensive roughers by making smaller cuts than I did with this one. I roughed out about two inches of 1018 steel, and it still appears to be new, with no chips or dullness. We'll see how long she lasts, but I had no problems finishing a job with it, and I also have a 3/4s rougher from the same brand that is of comparable quality.
To guide myself, I use routers and make patten jigs. I've discovered that using slower speeds, a slower feed rate, and never trying to take off too much is the key. Example: This 1/2 inch (. When cutting material with a 500") bit, I find it helpful to divide the diameter of the bit by four. Because of this. 500 (1/2") bit multiplied by four equals. 125 (1/8") x 125 (1/8") x 125 (1/8") x So I begin with a 1/8" material cut and a 1/8" depth. It's fantastic! br>br>I've tried posting videos on other bits.
I only cut annealed tool steel, and these end mills rip right through it like no other in my arsenal. Not only that, but they last longer than my carbide; I've been cutting tool steel for two days straight with one of these and it's still going strong. I'm buying a lot of these because they're the only ones I use right now. They are unbeatable in terms of price. M42's toughness, impact resistance, and resistance to vibration damage are so much better than carbide's that carbide has almost no place in my toolbox. Carbide is smoked with just one bad vibration. You can throw anything at these guys and they'll take it.
This end mill caught fire while I was face milling the bottom of a lathe tool holder. I didn t expect this given the 8% cobalt content, it was a roughing end mill and I was using flood coolant with it. 010- "Chinese" tool steel is passed through a 020" pass. Nope- There were a couple of sparks, and that was the end of it. A regular high-speed steel end mill was used to complete the job. weird - I'll use carbide next time; it appears to be of good quality, but you should only use hot-rolled steel or aluminum.
This thing easily cuts aluminum and steel, similar to a youtube video of a 1000° knife vs. butter. This is fantastic for gathering information.
We only just started today, and don't get me wrong, I'm a little green myself. But, with my Grizzly Mill and Lathe combo in my shop and only a few sets of bits under my belt, I can say that I am loving this, very aggressive cutter that has left me very impressed at this time.
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