US Stove Company U S Stove COD8 8" Chimney Clean Out Door, 8"
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Questions & Answers
I don't see why the door shouldn't last for a long time. I have my doubts about you.
Only metal should be used from the stove to the chimney exhaust, and the same goes for the cleanout, as sparks could cause a fire.
Yes, the entire structure is made of cast metal; no sheet metal is used.
Selected User Reviews For US Stove Company U S Stove COD8 8" Chimney Clean Out Door, 8"
Out Door. The two items have a lot in common. This product, like the other, has excellent build quality, but it is held shut by a simple latch. It performs admirably. The door is flush with the rest of the housing and has a lip around it to keep debris out. While the door does not completely seal out the air (as none seem to do), it does a good job of keeping almost everything else out. This looks and seals MUCH better than the steal sheet metal clean out door it replaced. I completed the job in under ten minutes. br>br>I understand you're deciding between the Minuteman International Cast Iron Clean-Up Kit and the Minuteman International Cast Iron Clean-Up Kit. This one, as well as the one out the door. You will not be disappointed if you purchase this book. It's less expensive, and it's free of rusty screws. Sure, that little fire place design is adorable, but that screw will only cause you problems in the future. br>br>This was paired with Rutland 500- Degree RTV High Heat Silicone was used, and the seal was excellent. br>br>Because there aren't many reviews for this product, I'll update my review if the product's status changes.
This is a big, strong door. My chimney had an 8" x 9 1/2" opening. Because the door flange is 7 5/8" x 7 5/8," I used mortar to secure the frame before adding the door. One advantage of this door over others is that the hinge pins are straight, making it simple to remove the door by simply opening and sliding it upwards. The frame (which extends 1 1/8" into the chimney on all sides and 7/8" on the top and bottom) can then be mounted alone. Another mounting option is provided by the two predrilled holes on each side of the mounting flange. I let it set for a few days after mortaring it in place before putting the door in. In response to questions and comments about the latch, it does indeed latch closed to the point where air cannot blow it open. To "disengage" the handle, you must first lift it slightly and then open the door. It is, however, latched closed once closed.
Nothing fancy, but nice and sturdy, exactly as described. I had to pull out the frame from the old cleanout door that had broken off a long time ago (which turned out to be a lot easier than I had anticipated). To fit the frame into the opening, it took about 30 minutes to chip out some old mortar and a corner of a brick. About half-way down, I yanked on the top hinge pin. I slid the door off the frame on my way out. Then I set the frame in place by applying mortar to the back face of the frame as well as the inside face of the chimney. I then spread the mortar between the door frame and the bricks in all of the open spaces. Keep in mind that the black mortar will get everywhere and you won't be able to clean it up. I made a mess, and I'll have to clean it up with some paint that matches my grey bricks. While the mortar dried, I left the frame in the opening overnight. I tugged on the frame the next morning and it was solid. As a result, I just re-re-re-re-re-re-re Closed the door after putting it on its hinges. Now, this door isn't completely airtight, and the hinge is held in place by gravity, but I don't think any rodents will be able to get past the quarter-inch gap it can be pulled to. Overall, for less than $50 and 45 minutes, I was able to secure my fireplace ash vault from the outside, and I would buy it again.
It arrived in a large box with no padding, allowing it to flop around freely. I previously inquired as to whether it has a latch. It has a latch, according to two people. There is no latch on it. It has a crossbar that prevents the door from closing inwards but does not prevent it from opening. It doesn't meet the fire code where I live because it doesn't secure shut, and it appears that people are answering questions about latches who have no idea what they are.
This was the ideal replacement for our rusted cleanout. I'm not sure why anyone would claim that it doesn't latch! The door is heavy, so I gave it two coats of rustolium clear coat on the inside and outside. I made a batch of cement and smeared it all over the place. It was a perfect fit. I believe it will last another 50 years because it is made of cast iron. If you need to replace an 8x8" cleanout, I strongly advise you to use this product.
The latching on the doors was made in a shoddy manner. Because the measurements are off, the door closes crookedly, leaving a solid 3/16 inch gap all the way around it. br>br>Ordered a backup in case something went wrong. The situation is identical. Due to a defect, the product is not usable; however, the shipping is extremely fast, which is not very helpful given that the product is defective.
The chimney cap was designed to fit perfectly into the opening. On each side, I had to use a masonry bit to drill a hole. Because the power drill or screw driver wouldn't fit into the 8" hole, I used two concrete anchors, which were a little awkward to install. I was able to get a good grip on the situation. Around the edges, I used PL Max premium sealant, though I won't know how well it holds up through the winter use of the chimney until then. This was a 20-minute project.
If I were selling this item, I would include pictures that show all of the dimensions as well as critical dimensions like "masonry opening" so that you can match this product to the hole you're trying to fit it into. It was simple to get home. My old atomic bungalow has a massive chimney but a very small clean out, with the very outer edge of the entire door and flange measuring 8", so my masonry opening is probably 5". 3/4".
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