PLYLOX Hurricane Window Clips (Carbon Steel, 1/2")
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Questions & Answers
No, I do not believe that is true.
They are 1/2 inch in diameter. It would be possible to use outer 5/8 clips. On 1/2 plywood, mine worked out great.
The plywood is 1/2 inch thick. Unless it's a 1/2-inch thick poly.
Selected User Reviews For PLYLOX Hurricane Window Clips (Carbon Steel, 1/2")
I was recently impacted by Hurricane Irma. This stuff is incredible. I was recently impacted by Hurricane Irma. I already had some Plylox, so it took me less than 30 minutes to install ten windows. I recently purchased six additional cases in order to complete the remainder of my windows. These locks stood firm in the face of 115 mph winds. It's very easy to get rid of. To keep the boards straight, I leave them right on the boards (be sure to mark which window they belong to). My neighbors took an entire day to install their wing nut shutters, while I finished in under 30 minutes. It took a long time to untangle the wood. They're owned by three neighbors, and they've all performed as expected.
These clips will save your life if you're preparing for a hurricane. They slide easily over the plywood's edge and make covering windows without drilling holes a breeze. When storm season comes around, we simply slide the clips onto the edge of the wood and push the boards into the window and door frames. The edge's "teeth" grasp the frame and secure the wood.
I've used these before and recently ordered another pack to ensure that I have enough for this summer. These are fantastic, and they make installing plywood shutters a breeze. They're a little tricky to remove at first, but once you figure it out, you'll be able to remove them with a screwdriver in no time. Please keep in mind that removing these may cause minor damage to your paint or stucco, but nothing that can't be easily repaired, and nothing that would keep me from recommending them. I wish I could use these on second-story windows as well, but due to frame construction on the upper level, they won't work. I have 9 windows on the lower level of our house, and I can cover them all in under an hour with these. When it comes to the larger windows, I've found that using a single screw to secure them to the plywood helps. Buy a bunch of these (I recommend 6-8) and do yourself a favor. Precut your plywood (8 per window) ahead of time so that when a storm hits, you'll be prepared and won't have to cut while rushed or stressed.
The sides taper from 58" to 0" with a 12" inset. The windows are inset 3-inches into a concrete block stucco wall and are well-made. They secured the plywood in place with a 12" taper on the sides and a 5/8" to 0" taper on the ends. When I slid it in, I scratched the paint on a test panel, but next time I'll try putting some aluminum flashing or plastic between the clip and the wall, then removing the flashing to lock it in place, then slipping flashing or plastic between clip and wall to remove it, which should eliminate most or all scratching. NOTE: For spans greater than 48", 2x4s must be screwed to the top and bottom of the plywood, according to the instructions.
These were purchased so that I could install plywood boards in my windows on the brick sides of my house. They have a good grip on the wood and keep it firmly in place. Survived a Category 3 hurricane with no damage to the windows (only a few dents in the wood). Before ordering the appropriate size plylox, make sure you know how thick your wood is. Each one has a hole in the metal that can be used to secure the metal to the wood permanently if desired. I just slipped them on without tying them down. Pounding them into place can be done with a hammer or a rubber mallet. When removing the boards from the window, you may need a claw hammer or something similar to pry the boards loose. They may require bending back into shape after use, but they are reusable. My own has been used three times. In comparison to the cost of a new window, it was well worth the money.
Because of these factors, it was relatively simple for two girls to construct a hurricane "safe room" in a concrete block house with no interior space. Finding, transporting, and cutting plywood were the only challenges. It was simple to set up. I bought some for my wood frame house as well, but they aren't compatible with my windows. I don't have any sills, so it's not their fault. I was grateful for a more sturdy shelter to borrow, as well as the peace of mind it provided, as it allowed me to sleep through at least part of the storm. A tree branch hit the window with such force that it could have broken it if it hadn't been for the plywood. I'm not sure how we would have gotten the plywood to stay in if it hadn't been for these. It wasn't easy to get rid of them, but we did it and no damage was done. I wouldn't want it to be too simple to remove, because that would make it unsafe.
I purchased the 3/4-inch for use with 3/4-inch plywood. I tried it with the clips after cutting the plywood according to the directions and ensuring it fit into the window. The clips were too long and wouldn't fit into the frame of the window. This is a stucco home from Florida's past. I tried cutting the board down to size, but it was still ineffective. You must have a lot of window sills that are extremely deep. I was relieved that the plywood was free because I would have been disappointed if I had wasted a sheet. Now I must choose between using a barrel bolt or an anchor. I really wanted this to work, but I had no choice but to ask for a refund.
Storm preparations have never been easier with this option. Before the storm hits, make sure you measure everything correctly and cut and fit the wood. A 2x4 connected to the center of the sheet via an L bracket and dug down about 2 feet in the ground will secure it even more with the clips. With that method, we were able to survive Hurricane Irma's Category 3 impact.
Related Products For PLYLOX Hurricane Window Clips (Carbon Steel, 1/2")
