OTC 4503 Stinger Double Flaring Tool Kit
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Questions & Answers
Taiwan is the place where OTC double flaring tool set is made.
There is no brake line kit with this kit for an automobile.
ISO Tube Flares cannot be produced by this kit. Only double lap and single wall flares can be made. You can do double bubble flares using either the OTC kit #4504 or the
Having been a professional tech for 25 years, I do not believe you can make a bubble flare with a flat side, however you can purchase brake lines from O'Reilly or Autozone that have already been bubble flared.
Selected User Reviews For OTC 4503 Stinger Double Flaring Tool Kit
As it turns out, the product is inferior and affordable, so it was a bad decision to take a chance after reading all the reviews. The first thing I noticed was that this product broke. I was very disappointed in this, and what is really disappointing is you have to find who owns this company to get a replacement part. You get set up for a return after running around in circles. There is nothing I can find on the company that makes this part, so you have to do some research on who owns this part. At least there are two or three different companies connected to this part at the very least that's the way it works. There has been an issue around that I've been getting so if you have a problem please let me know. It would be more worth it to me if it was worth the extra money to get something more reliable. I have no problem paying more than I should have. All I needed was a 3/16 cast size of a dime, and I cannot find any at this price. I suggest that you don't buy this product, don't be fooled by its price you will In lieu of finishing this project, I've put it on hold until I can find another 3/16 flaring tool, for which I can't lay a price tag.
It works fine. I have no complaints about it. I received my order quickly. A small quantity of oil and some paper were used to protect the cone during the initial phase of a It also helps to apply some heat to the work piece and to use a bench vise. The grip on the clamp scuffs the line just a little, but it does not affect performance and ensures that On the left, you can see a Ford's original double flare and on the right, a flaring tool.
This works very well as a set of The kit I use now is something I have used for over forty This was the first one on steel brake line in an auto repair shop. The line was cut to the right length, and it was speared with a double flare. During my time at the company, I do not remember any problems with leaks. They both do the same thing. Make sure your tube is properly deburred from the inside and the outside. Don't overtighten your tube clamp. The tube will look like an egg shape, which will cause your flare to be a little off. Ensure that the tube is cut straight, or you will also get a flare that is off-center. I find that this kit works really well As well as this kit, I have used several other kits. Ensure that all edges are straight, deburr all edges, and do not overtighten clamps. You can check the angle of your tube by putting it at the top of your tube clamp bar, otherwise, you will have to spend $200 plus on a rotating tube clamp. A webcam is not something I have ever used, & The brake line I buy is in rolls, and I can work with it Fittings packed in bags.
It is important to tighten the clamp. If you have a line, tighten the nut near your line before tightening the nut away from your line. When tightening the second nut, you only apply clamping force to the one you are tightening second, so using the far nut second gives Use copper nickel line because it flares easier and is softer than steel or poly coat steel. Never use steel line or poly coated steel line as the clamp teeth will scratch it up making it vulnerable to rust. If you are going to lubricate the flaring points with brake fluid, make sure that the clamp is clear to get a good grip first.
It is better to take your time rather than rushing. Make sure that the tubing cutter is new or nearly new. It was my first time using one of these, so I probably made things easier for myself by using copper nickel line. It is very affordable to buy a 25 foot roll of vinyl and you can do several lines with it. As well as being the easiest to bend and flare, it won't rust. The procedure takes a little bit of work, but the benefits are worth it.
When I use this to do 3/16" double flares on copper nickel brake line, it leaves a pronounced ridge outside the flare if I clamp down too tight. If I leave the clamp loose enough to grip, but not crush, I get no ridge. The 3/16 hole is egg shaped rather than round, so I think that is the problem. There is no point in putting this on the track to stop a 2 ton muscle car.
I read many reviews of other kits and decided on this one, noting that I chose to use the CUNI brake line, and this kit was perfect. From the first flare to the last, this kit worked as described. Although I considered using the tool underneath the car, since everything was going smoothly so far, I decided to stay in the position at waist level until the job was completed. The first time I flared my tube, I took my time, filed the outside and inside diameters of each end, and used brake fluid as a lubricant.
Even though this is an inexpensive tool kit for flaring, there are several things you can do to improve the outcome. Clean up the sharp edges on the tubing that clamp together, and clean up the transition point between the 45 degree bend and the straight run. Deburring without leaving deep nicks in your tubing will cause the tubing to corrode. You should use a C clamp to square off the tops of the two clamping bars so that when you form the 45 degree, there is no step that could leak fluid when it is However, I have not been able to resolve the leakage problem caused by the double flare not being centered with the tubing. There should be a way to keep the forming head from tilting back and forth as the handle is turned, or even wiggle, as my forming head Before changing out my brake lines, I will have to continue practicing and find out why my brake lines are not centered.