Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool

Otherwise, it would have rated 5 stars to me. While I spent about an hour trying to figure out what was wrong, I lost a few hours screwing around. Every time I learn something I have to go through It would be great to help someone else with my learning!.

Katherine Skinner

| Feb 22, 2021

Submitted and approved! I am reviewing the Titan 3/16 tube flaring tool. I got the tool recently and wanted to see how well it works on my favorite automotive bake tubes, copper clad steel and nickel. First, let me tell you what the bottom line is. Worked like a charm! There appears to be very good quality to the parts. The main clamp looks much better than the threads on the other clamp and the threads on the threads don't look crappy. You won't find this kind of one piece thread design in other hand held flaring tools as the female thread that pulls the die in is still one piece. As much as I could, I tested the tube by doing double flares and bubble flares as well as preparing it several different ways. In the first step, I added a flare by using a tubing cutter to cut the tube's end, but I didn't file or deburr it. I love the look of it. Once I filed the end flat and deburred the I, I tested it in a new way. I think it looks even better now. In the end, I made a double flare and a bubble flare after just cleaning up I then inspected all of the tool's parts for wear. All of them appeared to be in perfect condition. Despite the included photos showing a very slight amount of wear on the forming, the black oxide shows no signs of being worn away. There is one thing that needs to be noted about this tool the bubble flares are tapered at the There are usually no curves on the back of ISO/metric flares. As a replacement for ISO bubbles, I used tapered back bubble flares and had no leaks. Depending on how tight you tighten the fitting, the flare will reform to the fitting as your wrench gives. As the nut becomes solid after reforming, you can feel it. I'm sharing some tips I've learned from making flares for years. It is always a good idea to lubricate the threads on the tool and the die ends. There is a small container of something that looks like lubrication for the chassis or wheel bearings. My experience has been that any heavy oil or grease is effective. Unless you apply lube to your flares, they will not be good and your tool will wear out more You can put a box ratchet on the die tool and clamp the tube with it. With the ratchet wrench, because the handle of the tool and the wrench must be held, it is easier for you to use short strokes. The positioning plug was inserted into the hole on the plastic handle end of this tool since it did not come with a case. As one piece of the tool is left unattached, I drilled out the hole at the end and inserted the positioning plug into the The tool can now simply be thrown in my brake tool drawer without having to search for loose spare Here are some pictures of the project The tool is shown here in its open state. Ads for these products never depict this. Following that is the condition of the tube before it was flared. In the next shot, you see the side profile. In the next shot, you see the Tapering is visible on the back of the piece. ISO 4 is an ISO based system. There is a flat surface on the back of the 75 bubble flare, so it should still work well on ISO and metric The next image shows the bubble flare from the side. In the following two pictures, you can see the flares that were made on copper clad nickel steel brake tubing after the dies were made. I have taken pictures of several flares I have Below are the names of the speakers in order An end of a tube cut with a tube cutter, with no prep on it File on both sides after deburring on the inside Deburr just inside the double ring (best) The bubble flares after the end of the tube has been deburred. In the last photo you can see how I store the positioning plugs.

Santos Banks

| May 28, 2021

There are many flaring tools on the market, from the low end to the mid range that use the wing nuts, but all of them leave lines and crimp marks on the ends, and some come out not concentric, too. It has even happened to me that brake lines slip in clamps especially when using stainless steel The tools are very well made, and have a nice long clamping area that holds stainless steel without teeth, barely leaves any marks on the tube, and the flare comes out perfectly. The stop bolt that comes with this one eliminates all the guess work regarding how much of the line should stick out. Additionally, I found out that this thing seems to be made of a kind of steel type, as there is no casting marks to be found, and it seems to be pretty heavy for its small size. There is also a nice "actually rated" grade 12 battery in the box. There are 9 bolts for clamping, so there is no need to worry about gauling the threads or the steel block. You should use a little of the lube it comes with as you have to crank down on these, and you may want to add a small washer to prolong their life. As for the forming tip, I believe it is made of some good quality hardened steel, because it does thread in remarkably smooth and the threads didn't get all chewed up after one use, as I've seen with In addition to being ergonomic, this tool works very well with the handle and makes it easier to fix a line on a car without having to use a vice. It is the best tool for doing brakes once in a while so you don't have to spend $2 to $3. If you want the best results, you need to invest $300 on a professional one.

Enzo Ochoa

| Jun 02, 2021

It's very cool to use this tool! Making hard brake lines has always been a challenge for me, and I have been working on cars for 35 years. It turns out that I was in need of a new set of brake hard lines for the rear brakes for a 2003 Mini Cooper, but only two sections. For that, I needed a piece with the right ends to connect with the existing lines with bubble flares, and I needed to create couplers on the cut lines so that the existing lines would connect with the Due to the tools I used in the past, bubble flares weren't as good as I would have liked, and I had to work on lines still connected beneath The Titan tools save the day! By only using the OP1 side of the anvil, I was able to create bubble flares that were perfectly shaped and leak-free. By holding the tool in a vice, it was easy to flare the new lines, and the lines that were still connected under the car were also fairly easy to flare. In addition, if you need to put bubbles or double flares on 3/16" brake line, this 51535 is the best I have ever seen or.

Canaan Harris

| May 04, 2021