Titan 51515 1/4-Inch Double Flaring Tool
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Only the grease they provide for the threads does the job. I would use brake clean to remove the lubricant from the tube of the die if I used the lubricant on the forming part of the die
No brake line has ever been longer than 12mm to my knowledge. 5mm is 3/16" line this tool is meant for line that is 3/16". However, I do not believe it would work on metric sizes, since it has to be the exact dimensions for the clamp to grasp it without damaging it. To make sure they are valid, check the manufacturers' website.
In the first, a 3/16-inch tube is worked on, while the second one is a 1/4-inch tube. A key word for tubing is that it is measured differently than a pipe. A tube is outdoors, and a pipe is inside. Check your facts before you claim that you didn't. This is not meant as an offense. Here's what I came up with. Using this tool, which I consider to be the best at its price, makes sense to me. I have been a master mechanic for 50 years so far. It is mainly used for break lines and it should not be used on gas lines because it will leak at various angles. Each product can be viewed from a different angle. It is my sincere hope that this will help you. You might want to practice a couple times on scrap peace to make sure the equation works. After the repair is complete, move onto the next step. It can be tricky to figure out how to use this tool. You will know it once you get There are mega money savings to be had. Also during this procedure, a bubble horn can be created, which is commonly found on modern It is common for mechanics to say no, but not me. Learning how to do it is a process that requires practice.
Since I haven't looked, I can't comment. This particular tool will have you doing a flare on a line as if you were a pro. Despite the tight spot on the vehicle, I was able to flare in without any problems the first time. Well worth the money spent.
Selected User Reviews For Titan 51515 1/4-Inch Double Flaring Tool
As a mechanical engineer, I am giving this tool a one star rating at present, but plan to upgrade it to a four star rating later on. In both cases, I will give five stars if and when the Seller contacts me regarding two items. First, the two bolts that clamp the two halves together either have a manufacturing defect or were used previously by someone else. There are holes in both bolts, just like in the eye of a needle, and at least half of their cross section is missing below the root of one of the threads. This will result in a reduced tool life as both bolts will be ultimately prone to failure. Those instructions are what led to the 2nd issue. A great tool to use on Cupro-based video editing software ALL LINES MADE OF SOFT METAL INCLUDE THE BRAKING LINES IN NICKEL. One of the best, if not the best. This tool won't work on the Original Stock HARD Steel Brake Lines that your car was built with (especially if they are PVC Coated / Poly Armor) unless you know the "TWO TRICKS" which you should find in the User's Guide. It is necessary to peel off about 2 inches of the poly armor / PVC coating to begin. In the absence of these precautions, your clamps will not get a good grip on the Steel Tubing, and the PVC will slip, resulting in water damage to the Tubing. As soon as you bleed the brakes, you'll have to restore the Rust & corrosion By covering the steel with a corrosion-resistant concrete coating to protect it against rust, and by applying a sealant to prevent corrosion A corrosion protection system. It is a great idea to use a product such as Clear Shoe Goo if you want non-fraying shoes Use removable finishes such as silicone sealants or caulk if you want to remove the finish. You should not try to speed up the cooling process by immersing the tubing ends in a liquid, because this will reduce the sealing process. As a result of ANNEALING, the Steel's Properties change and its Ductility increases while its Strength remains the same.
going to use this for copper nickel brake line, you are going to have to experiment quite a bit, especially when using You will have some wrinkle issues with your flares if the amount of brake line that you insert into this tool doesn't match the amount you need. This tool was designed for steel brake lines, and it probably works great on them (I haven't tried it myself). According to the instructions, insert the brake line into the depth gauge until it touches the depth gauge, and then secure To avoid wrinkles, setting your flare back nearly 1/8" From the depth gauge is a good idea. If you use 3/16" line, you can make a flare but your flare will get wrinkled. here is your flare could lose surface area when you back away, and it may not seal correctly. I could not make a decent flare with this tool when working with 3/16" copper nickel line. However, if you back away about 1/16" from the depth gauge, you can make a good flare with the 1/4" tool. This is because the 1/4" line has a larger diameter than the 3/16" line, making it much more sturdy. Also, it will help if your brake line has chamfered edges on the ID and OD so this will give it greater glide Generally, if you experiment on some scrap copper nickel line, you'll be able to get a nice flare with 1/4" line, but you'll have problems with 3/16".
A maximum of two stars is awarded for shipping circumstances only. Photos of the bag smeared with grease show that the tool and related parts have all been removed and cleaned. In fact, the instrument appears to be great in comparison to many Titan tools, but instead of a retail blister pack, the tool and the components were all enclosed in a sealed plastic bag. As a result, there was grease everywhere and the grease container itself was not secured or sealed. The lid came off and the metal dies flushed all of the grease out of the grease container inside the pack and it covered the tool, the dies, and Now there is no grease to be used for the process due to the ruined paper instructions. Now I have to call the company and ask how and where I can get more grease and degrease all the parts and tools. As the paper instructions are stained with grease, I can also refer to an instructional video or download the instructions. have also purchased a 3/16 tool and it arrived in a hard plastic blister pack. It has shipped intact according to design. However, since I have learned something, I will not be able to store the small grease container loosely in my brake tool kit or I will find a sticky grease mess. Small grease containers simply are not practical perhaps a flexible to-go tube with a resealable cap and a more secure way to store and reuse it could be more practical. In watching videos, it seems very efficient! Easy to use and looks like it will be very cost-effective, over other options. Durability appears good. Have not used it yet, but expect it will be convenient in the use.
At the flares, all I see are leaks. Whether I used a vice or not didn't matter. Instead of doing my own brake lines, I hired a professional. Afterward, I picked up a 3/16 version of this tool to use on my 1976 Firebird I love it! If I take the tubing out of the car, or use it on it, I could use It can be worn This is not the case with the big multiple size flare tools where you sometimes need to take the tubing off the car and flare it a few times to stop it from leaking. As a result, your lines are shorter, and they don't want to occupy the default tab locations from the factory. What I mean to say is obvious to you. There is never a leak with these. The 1/4 tool was what I used when I had a rusted brake line on my F250. I am certain that it is without This tool makes brake servicing easy and quick. These should be in your tool box whenever you service In the end, you won't need to pay for preformed brake lines when you use this method. I can provide you with some information if you're not sure about buying it. You've reached the end! Don't wait! Do it now!.
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