Zurn Wilkins 3/4" NR3XL Pressure Reducing Valve with double union FNPT connection
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Nov 1, 2017 was the date I received mine. An end-to-end union is present on both sides. Moreover, the inlet at the body is threaded so you can use both unions or only one union, or both at the same time. A Wilkins 70 model that had served me well for 30 years had been replaced. In the Wilkins 70, there was a union at the inlet and the discharge pipe was threaded A bigger version of this regulator is the Wilkins model 70 that is about an inch longer if both unions are added. My exiting piping has some slack, so I ended up installing both unions, but I could've used one union and screwed the discharge onto it to make sure it is Now that I'm dealing with the new system, I no longer experience water hammer or pressure surges. In my research, I looked at rebuilding the Wilkins, which is not difficult and restores it to near-new condition, but cost is higher than that of purchasing As a result of moving production to China, the manufacturer is no longer paying taxes however, the move tripled the cost of rebuild kits, so now it costs more to replace a rebuild than to replace the whole thing.
You should use it on the water coming into your house to reduce the pressure from the city to a level you are comfortable with for your home's fixtures. Approximately 65% of the city supply is supplied by the city Suppose your pipes/fixtures are at 100 psi, and you need to reduce that to 60 psi to prevent damage. The water heater in my house is right before it.
Even if the kit can be repaired, it would be more cost-effective to replace it rather than have it repaired, which is how most things are nowadays.
The adapter is female to threaded male and has a smooth surface (glue on). There should be one on either There are various manufacturers of these and they are available on Amazon and local hardware stores. The grey ones (CPVC) are the ones I've used in the photo - they're a bit more robust.
Selected User Reviews For Zurn Wilkins 3/4" NR3XL Pressure Reducing Valve with double union FNPT connection
In a nutshell, Good quality and inexpensive. If you expect 10 to 20 gal of water flow this valve can cause a pressure drop of close to 40 psi as soon as you open it. Check out the video to see the difference. I replaced it with an inch one as the efficiency was very poor.
Compared with the cost of a rebuild kit for my old regulator, this was a much better deal. I would recommend hanging on to your old regulator for now. A mine I assessed appeared to be plugged with minerals, but not simply plugged, but really In order for it to be cleaned, I soaked it in vinegar for a week and changed the vinegar several times. Afterwards, it should be fine. The reason I am saving it is that this one will eventually scale up, so I can just swap it out and soak it.
In place of the BR4 valve, which was discontinued, this is the replacement. In the case of a double union, it takes about half an hour to replace an identical valve. Take a look at a few YouTube videos to see how it works. You can also buy rebuild kits for these valves if you need to cut and solder pipe. This becomes a much bigger job if you need to cut and solder pipe. A rebuild kit isn't a lot cheaper than a new valve, but if your installation will involve cutting and soldering pipe to replace, a rebuild kit would be a better choice. The kit could also be installed without removing the valve entirely. It's the third valve in a house that's been around for 13 years, so I wonder how durable it is. In both cases, the water meters out in the street were replaced after the county replaced them. I am not sure if this is a coincidence. While another member of my family flushed a toilet, I noticed that the shower pressure was significantly reduced. Before, nothing like that had ever happened. The hose bib in front of the gauge will be the pressure gauge. The pressure was 100# while nothing was running (too high), fall to 40# when the kitchen faucet could be an indication that a valve is faulty. It is set to 50# at the factory. Numerous opinions exist on what's optimal, but it's too low for a house with many fixtures to be such a small amount. In my case, I adjusted the pressure to 60# after the initial installation and no drop in the gauge can be seen when multiple faucets are opened. In order to complete this task properly, you will need a pressure gauge, which you can buy here for less than $10, or in the plumbing or irrigation aisle at the big box store. In addition, I deducted a star due to the general lack of durability, and the old BR4 came with a sediment screen/washer for the incoming side. This one is only equipped with Using the old one, I cleaned and reused it.
The box is sturdy and does not rattle. Most of the time, it seems to work, but sometimes it just ceases restricting the pressure and your home system can get pressure. Flow by Moen Smart water device, and I've attached a screenshot which shows the pressure rising well above the 70 pounds that I have it set to. There were a number of signs of high pressure in the house, and I'm not sure how high it could have gone if we hadn't turned on the water within the house to let it go. This pressure spike was confirmed by analog gauges. Even the 16-inch gauge confirmed it. The year is It was even better than that in the old device it was replacing, isn't that sad? I regret putting this on my projects table for a month before getting to the project, because it's now too late to return it. If it is a single faulty device, or if it is a problem with the entire line of products, I cannot tell you since I will not buy another product.
It had been far too long since I installed a regulator. My household pressure had gotten into the mid 80's after way too long. 1 - The Zurn Wilkins Unit It looked like the right one was "NR3XLDU 1". 1991 was the last year the old one was available. In the old one, there was a union on the inlet side and a threaded fitting on the outlet side. This is not the first time this has happened. I don't understand why they used just one union. As I needed one on the outlet side, I decided to add a union. The unions on the ne regulator were threaded, not sweat. I could not find any information on the type of union in the product description, so I give it a 4 star rating. In order to order it, I went ahead and ordered extra unions. Using copper MIPs into the unions will be necessary if your piping is copper. During my installation, I was able to just use the existing union to connect the supply to the receptacle. There was about a 5" piece of copper above the regulator. I just cut that straight through, sweated the remaining piece out of the tee, and the whole thing went together. As difficult as it was to take out the solder from the Tee, it was getting it back together again. As a result of mounting the new valve in the lower union, I was able to calculate how long of copper was needed My next task was to dry fit everything once I knew it was good. Once I had done that, I removed the regulator and soldered the new union to the copper wiring. should not solder the valve while the rubber gaskets are still in place seller the brass couplings. Do not solder the copper into Tee until you have soldered the brass couplings. Before you solder, make sure the copper piece is tightened with the tightening nut, there is nothing worse than having to sweat off the excess flux. I just tightened the valve after I had installed it with the gaskets without breaking my arm. When the water was turned on, everything seemed to work fine. I sweat & I eat When a part is soldered or unsoldered, sweat is produced. Next, let me tell you how it works Charms seems to work the way they The following adjustment Another person mentioned setting the factory pressure to 55 psi? The inlet pressure was off, I had about 45 psi, so this was not a surprise. The inlet pressure is going to determine how much adjustment is going to be required for the inner spring. In my house, the air pressure was more than 80 psi. I set the pressure regulator to 65 psi (I have a gauge in my system) and let a sink run wide open and flush a toilet simultaneously to drop it to 60 psi. I actually feel as though my flow has increased after taking a shower. In the old regulator, I noticed that most of the metal parts were corroding away probably due to a reduced flow. There was a pile of rust inside after I opened it up. As far as I can tell, the regulator works great, but there is always the possibility of getting a defective part. Should you try it I thought it would be pretty easy myself since I was retired from working in the piping trades.
1 It reduces pressure by one inch with NR3XLDU. There was no way I could stop the leaks on the output side. After installing the unit twice (removing it once and re-applying nylon tape), I removed it and installed it the third time. Despite tying off the unit properly and tightening, a small amount of water was always leaking out. It had the same result when it was tried by my neighbor. I gave up after two installs. At the big "L" I bought another unit by the same manufacturer. I installed it without any problems. It appears that the input and output threads are tarnished. I do not know if that was the cause of the leakage. The unit seemed brand new and did not seem to have been used previously. My neighbor needs to replace his water regulator, and I tried to give it to him. As it leaks, he declined to accept it. I'm debating whether to send it back or just lose it.
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