Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer
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The contents of the container are not listed. For that information, you'll need to speak with the manufacturer.
I usually use lacquer thinner to cut the sanding sealer in half. I use a foam sponge to apply the sealer, but I find that I have to discard the sponge frequently because it becomes sticky.
This is a lacquer that has been thinned. On my wood turnings, I use it as a foundation for other finishes such as Mylands fiction polish. I don't think you'll be able to get the finish you want with this product.br>br>If you don't need a high build finish, use linseed oil, Tung oil, or something similar; if you need a durable high build gloss finish, use CA glue. If you Google CA glue finish, you'll find a plethora of examples and instructions; it's usually a three-step process that results in a very durable high-build finish.
If you're going to use a resin, I don't think you need to seal the wood first; in fact, I think it would be counterproductive because the resin needs to penetrate the wood. You should test it on a scrap of the same wood just to be sure. As a wood turner, I use cellulose sealer prior to applying the final finish, which is usually shellac or lacquer.
Selected User Reviews For Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer
I always want to get instructions on how to use the items I purchase as well as other useful information. br>This is my first time using this product, and there are no "instructions" or "directions" on the label or in the package. br>How about the safety concerns? I'm surprised Amazon would sell this. YouTube can be extremely beneficial.
If you work as a woodturner in a high-end shop, This product is essential and works very well for end gallery creations (or a relative beginner making pens). All you need to know is that this finish has limitations in terms of finished object size and application ease. It's a no-brainer, essential, and necessary on a pen. The advantages remain on a much larger scale, but the challenges of consistent application multiply exponentially.
This is the brand that woodworkers recognize as the gold standard in woodturning finishing. The finish of the wood is enhanced by Mylands alone. For a dazzling shine, finish with beeswax, Danish oil, or a high-shine formula. Mylands is the best.
This isn't even close to the Minwax sanding seal. Minwax is far superior in quality and price, as well as in results. Save your money and go with Minwax instead; this product is way too expensive. When compared to others, it falls short.
This product is an excellent filler that brings out the grain and fills in the pores while also helping to produce a brilliant shine. It produces an excellent finish with a brilliant shine when used in conjunction with Mylands Friction Polish, which I now use on all of my pens.
Wood turning and epoxy projects are two of my favorite things to do. When my project is finished and ready for sanding sealer, I use a lint-free cloth to apply the sanding sealer. Allow the free cloth to soak in the sanding sealer, then sand the epoxied areas with a fine sandpaper or denatured alcohol to remove the sanding sealer. I usually use Ack's sanding paste and polish, but there are times when the sanding sealer looks great on its own, so I leave it that way. Due to the sticky nature of the situation, latex gloves should be worn.
The company is a little too proud of their product in terms of price, but it's the best sanding sealer I've found, and I tried a few to get away from that price, but I like the results this product provides.
When a friend gave me a half-used can of Mylands, I was intrigued. I really liked how it ended. I purchased a second can to use with my wood turnings.
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