homlux 6.6ft Heavy Duty Sturdy Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit Double Door - Smoothly and Quietly - Simple and Easy to Install - Fit 1 3/8-1 3/4" Thickness Door Panel(Black)(J Shape Hangers)
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If it's higher than the carpet, I'd leave at least 1/4 inch of clearance. If you have hard surface flooring, the same rules apply, and the door will not scrape the floor. I'd use the 1/4 (/-) inch rule to measure from the top of where the hardware will sit to the bottom, allowing for any ceiling clearance. ) to represent the ground. I watched a couple of videos and read a lot about how to measure the door openings. Simply look up how to put up a barn door on the internet.
I've ordered from a variety of distributors, and everything is made in China.
A small track glider that mounts to the floor is included in this kit. To accommodate the glider, you cut a groove into the bottom of the door.
Yes, there is only one door in my apartment. It's very nice to look at and use.
Selected User Reviews For homlux 6.6ft Heavy Duty Sturdy Sliding Barn Door Hardware Kit Double Door - Smoothly and Quietly - Simple and Easy to Install - Fit 1 3/8-1 3/4" Thickness Door Panel(Black)(J Shape Hangers)
This is a sturdy device that appears to have been well-engineered. That's the good news. br>I could have done better if I hadn't been given any instructions at all. Step 5 gave my doors a swiss cheese-like appearance in some areas! If you purchase this, I recommend that you alter the steps as follows. br>Steps 1 and 2 are fine, but step 3 must be completed before the horizontal rail can be lag bolted to the header. br>br>Step 4 is something I haven't done yet because I'm not sure if it's necessary. br>br>In Step 5, things start to go wrong. When I used those numbers (I love how decimals and fractions are mixed in with inches! ), I got a lot of funny looks. When the door was hung, however, it did not clear the floor. After a few attempts, I finally got the hangers installed so that the bottom of the hanger was exactly 6 1/2" from the top of the door. I measured the distance and then used the hanger as a template for drilling. br>Also, make sure the acorn nuts are on the outside (this is shown in the diagram but not stated). The nuts will rub against the wall if they are not removed. In addition, place the hanger as far away from the center as possible on the edge of the doors where they meet. The doors will be able to meet and the door stoppers will be able to function. br>br>Secondary br>br>Secondary br>br> This is crucial, despite the fact that the directions do not make it clear. It keeps the door rollers and doors from slamming against the rail. Drill a 1/2" pilot hole from the door's OUTSIDE edge. Step 8 is to rotate them so they're under the rail after they've been hung. br>Steps 7,9 and 10 are completed successfully. br>Steps 11 and 12 are completed successfully. I haven't completed it yet because I'm not sure it's necessary. br>br>The only other thing I've noticed so far is that - There is no way to fine-tune the settings. There is a gap at the bottom of the doors when I close them. Theoretically, that shouldn't happen if you start with a level rail in step 1 and have square doors. I used some 100-year-old recycled doors, which could be contributing to the issue. br>I'm thinking of using an astragal and magnets on the top and bottom of the doors to keep them shut. br>br>I'm a seasoned handyman/builder, so proceed with caution if you've never done anything like this before. I hope that this information is useful.
It's solid, sturdy, and has a very nice feel and appearance, and the installation is fairly straightforward (though it would probably help if you're somewhat familiar with shop tools/woodwork). The 9' rail was the perfect length for my 27" doors and covered my 4' doorway nicely. The only thing that didn't work out was the set of "stoppers" or "bumpers" that go in between the doors to stop them right in the middle, because they were a little too wide together; however, I cut one down to size and they now work fine. Overall, I think this is an excellent product.
Nothing out of the ordinary! It's fine, but nothing exceptional. In the nuts, disappointed It was accompanied by bolts. Because the bolt was too long, the nuts were capped, making it impossible to tighten them. It would have been better if the nut had been open ended. I needed to go to the hardware store to get some new ones. I purchased the 8-foot bar, which came in two pieces that needed to be joined together. That's fine, and I was aware of the situation prior to placing my order; I had to fabricate a way to hold the two bar pieces together because there was no nut, bolt, or screw to hold them together. I also had to make a spacer for the center joint because there wasn't one. Finally, one of the stop set screws came loose during transit (or possibly during packing) and ended up at the bottom of the box. I was fortunate enough to come across it.
The doors transition seamlessly across the 30' track when three kits are installed in a row. We used oak plywood and solid oak facing pieces to construct the doors. These doors weigh in at around 80 pounds each, and the tracks are in good shape. We did have a minor mishap with the door coming off the end of the track, so make sure the end stop is well tightened, then tightened again! More photos can be found on our Instagram account. @maelumensalon is an Instagram account run by Mae Lumensalon.
The cardboard in the box was completely ruined when it arrived, but the contents were safely encased in foam and received no damage. In terms of steps, I found the instructions to be mostly correct. There was one that wasn't working, but other than that, it was simple to set up. I like how everything looks and how durable it is. br>When I built my own doors, I didn't give much thought to where the hangers would go. I simply inserted them into the vertical bars in the middle. and well. There is a 2. 5% increase with the center bumpers installed on the track. I'll be filling in the 5" gap at a later time (these are still in progress). I might end up coming up with a different solution for the center bumper, one that isn't as far out from the center as the current one. br>This is more of a builder (me) issue than a product issue. br>I also dislike the fact that the floor guide necessitates the cutting of a groove in the bottom of the doors; I would have preferred something like a C-shaped groove. That's just my opinion, though. br>I am satisfied with my purchase in general.
For quality, I give it five stars. br>4 stars for putting forth the effort to solve the problem. br>br>In comparison to previous reviews, the instructions have improved. The dimensions, on the other hand, are a little more difficult to decipher. Decimals and fractions are both used in mathematics. The measurements aren't standard, for instance 1. 4" (one and a half inches) br>br>As suggested, we mounted it to a ledger. The mounting hardware is bolted to the ledger, and the ledger is bolted to the studs. br>br>The procedure goes without a hitch. br>br>Because we live in an older home, I had to make some adjustments to account for the cased opening height, uneven floor, and adapting to the existing conditions. The breaks in the middle didn't work. br>br> I'll have to come up with another option. Because of the uneven floor, the door guide will not work as well. For that, I'll come up with something unique. Tools needed: br>br> stud finder, drill/driver, tape measure, and ratchet/crescent wrench are some of the tools you'll need. br>br>In general, it achieves the desired result. Before you buy, check the measurements to make sure you know what you're getting yourself into. It only took a few hours to put it together. br>br> Preparing and painting the doors took longer than hanging the doors.
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