GEAR AID Shoe Repair Glue, Fix Soles, Heels, and Leather and Rubber Boots with Aquaseal SR

The gross reattachment of outsoles will receive the majority of my attention in this text. I'll use my own boots as an example, which are cemented in construction and have a fiberboard insole but no proper midsole. Because there are so many different types of construction, some interpretation may be necessary. The term "insole" is used in this text to refer to a permanent part of the shoe. The term "inserts" refers to padded or contoured parts that can be removed. br>br>For outsole reattachment, I've used a combination of retail products (contact cements, E6000, etc. ) as well as some urethane sealants I've mixed and thinned myself. On boots with proper midsoles, contact cements work great, but gluing stiff cup soles back on a cemented construction seems to be easier with something that can fill the tucks in the leather. Neither Shoe Goo nor E6000 were as tenacious or stiff as this product; only time will tell if Aquaseal SR stands the test of time, but so far I'm impressed. br>br>It's difficult for me to believe that an alert user could experience immediate product failures without questioning how or why the problem occurred; No one expects miracles to happen without effort. Simple instructions like "clean and dry all surfaces" don't seem to cover the full scope of what needs to be cleaned or dried. The process I used for a pair of boots that I'd worn every day for about six years is outlined below. Allow this to serve as both a reminder and a focus. br>br> br> br> br> br> br> br> Remove any shoe inserts if you have them. br> Inserts keep the shoes from getting dirty by retaining moisture. In a timely manner, the drying process was completed. If the laces are going to get in the way, take them off. Scarify: br>br> br> br> br> br> br> br br>The goal here is to get rid of any debris and leftover adhesive. If the old adhesive has already failed, gluing to it will cause it to fail again. Don't just sand it down with some sandpaper and call it a day. I used a die grinder with a sanding drum to remove the old cement from the uppers and insoles, as well as grind the outsole down to virgin rubber. br>br>Clean: br>br> br>The goal is to clean up the scarification debris and ensure that the materials to be bonded are free of contaminants that have been absorbed. I started with a solvent wipe with lacquer thinner and then scrubbed with water and a degreasing detergent (Formula 409, Simple Green, Krud Kutter). If the uppers have been oiled or have seen a lot of wear, these steps are crucial. Permeable materials (fabric, leather, fiberboard, molded foam outsoles) have absorbed sweat and are saturated with these residues; swabbing with alcohol or water alone will not be enough to remove this residue; It requires a thorough cleaning. You have the option to re-submit your application at any time. When the repair is finished, oil the leather. Dry: br>br> br>This is the most time-consuming part of the procedure. The surfaces that will be bonded must be completely dry. Absorbing moisture reduces the bond's reliability and strength in most of these adhesives. The shoe will be damp if it was cleaned properly. In addition, most soft outsoles on shoes are made of urethane foam that has been molded. These types of soles will have been exposed while being washed, but if they've been worn frequently (due to sweat or environmental exposure), they'll likely have deeper absorbed moisture. br>br>Avoid attempting to impose your will on others. Heat is used to dry the shoes or boots. Leather will shrink even more at higher temperatures, and some contact adhesives used elsewhere on the shoe may reactivate (become fluid). On a sunny day (120F for 6 hours), I simply tossed my freshly washed boots on the roof of my car, where they sat for a few days. Because the outsoles of my boots are solid and there is no padding to retain moisture, they dried relatively quickly. It takes more time to dry a thick foam outsole. br>br> br> br> br> br> br> br> br>Cover any areas on the upper that you want to keep clean with masking tape. Apply the adhesive to one surface and use a brush to spread it out. Using a brush and extra adhesive, press the two surfaces together and pull them apart to see where the adhesive has been transferred. br>br> br> br> br> br> br> br> b br>String, rubber bands, or stretchable tape like electrical tape or tile tape work great for this, especially on well-knit surfaces. worn (i. Boots with molded rands or curved) boots are popular. This is important because it allows pressure to be applied to the welt/rand area at the sole's edge (as seen in the photo). Stuffing the shoe with something (foam, rags, or socks) may be beneficial. This allows the upper to keep its shape while being clamped. Filling the shoe also aids in pressure transfer to the sole's central area. Allow the assembly to dry for a longer period of time than the package specifies. This is especially important if you used a thick adhesive that takes longer to dry. This is especially important if your soles are stiff and require a lot of clamping pressure to shape. Before unclamping, the adhesive in these cases must be fairly strong. I had been waiting for 48 hours. br>br> br> br> br> br> br> br> b br>For general cleanup and cleaning the application brush, I simply used lacquer thinner. I haven't tried it, but xylene or toluene should work just fine. These are only effective while the adhesive is still wet. Because you were wearing disposable gloves, you shouldn't have to clean your hands. right? Finish the job: br>br> Remove the tape by peeling it off. Mineral spirits or naphtha are typically used to remove tape residues. You should probably use this opportunity to re-evaluate your situation. Leather uppers should be oiled or refinished. Consider using this time to address recurring sole detachment issues caused by usage patterns (kicking/prying with toe or heel welt, kneeling causing instep delamination, or walking on hot surfaces). Even low-cost glued-together furniture Sewing, clinch nailing, or riveting can be used to reinforce the soles. Depending on the shoe's construction, this can be done in a variety of ways. You'll have to figure it out on your own. br>br>Sewing through the sole is easier than it appears, but you'll need a lot of thread (TEX135/FF/0. 4mm to TEX410/6/0 TEX410/6/0 TEX410/6/0 TEX410/6 7mm) can be hard to come by in stores. Depending on the material and construction, a 25-foot braided nylon casting line can be found in most sporting goods stores. 90lb line is a similar size that can be waxed, oiled, or simply used dry before being impregnated. Strength and weatherproofness were tested in situ. A needle and pliers, a hook awl, or an eyelet/tubular awl are all options for stitching through the welt on the outside of the shoe. Blake stitching through the insole should be done with a hook awl and lock stitching. If your shoes have hard outsoles or fiberboard insoles/midsoles, a small drill can be used to punch the holes; I find it easiest if you periodically dip the awl in some linseed oil to act as both a lubricant and thread preservative. A straight awl could be used in the absence of this. To protect the thread from abrasion, cut a relief groove if necessary. br>br> br> br> br> br> br> br> br> br> br>There have been numerous reports of the product drying out in the tube or clogging. I haven't had a tube of this product that I didn't finish in one job, but I've had the same issue with many other products. The reason for this varies, but the cap remains the issue. The cap may not always fit correctly and may not even seal mechanically. When exposed to the adhesive (Permatex RTV silicones), the cap can shrink and crack. Typically, it's due to the fact that plastic is vapor-permeable. Permeable to either solvents or moisture/oxygen. There's a reason these items come in foil tubes rather than plastic tubes. Even the most flawlessly executed plan can fail. Such products die a slow death if they don't have a well-fitting plastic cap. Plastic bottles with cardboard seals, plastic bags, and polyethylene wrap are all hopelessly permeable and provide no protection. Wrapping the entire thing in foil may help, and putting it in the fridge or freezer to slow the process (though not everything should be frozen) may also help. Making disposable tube seals (as shown in the photo) is a simple solution. Using aluminum foil tape, adhere a sheet of thin rubber, felt, or craft foam to a sheet of thin rubber, felt, or craft foam. Punch or cut circles that will fit snugly inside the cap. When the cap is tightened, place the seal in the cap so that the foil is pressed against the tube mouth. It's this metal-like substance that's causing the problem. The rubber or felt makes the seal compliant enough to make full contact with the irregular tube mouth, and the metal seal makes the foil effective. Make extras because the seal is likely to be mangled during removal. Just to be safe, wrap the tube in foil and freeze it. br>br>A resourceful person can always make a metal cap for products they use on a regular basis (see photo). The Aquaseal SR tubes are 7/16"-inches in diameter. 20 straight threads, though don't expect perfect thread geometry from impact-extruded tubes, and the tube mouth won't be square to the threads. It's worth mentioning as a follow-up to the low-cost option. I expect no one to seriously consider implementing the permeability seal concept. br>br>However, don't expect inanimate reality to save you from your own mistakes if you can't be bothered to clean the threads. br>br>Conclusionbr>As you can see in the photos, the boots have been reassembled, sewn, and oiled. Excess squeeze was not a problem for me. out. I'm sorry I didn't photograph the disassembled and scarified soles/uppers. With the exception of the heels (which are nailed), my soles were completely detached. Didn't I say something about "gross reattachment"? If I can do it on that scale, I'm sure I can do it with sneaker rands as well.

Emely Shah

| Apr 01, 2021

First and foremost, Freesole is a fantastic product, but those who are having trouble getting it to work (even on vibram soles) should abandon their efforts. br>br>Myth No. 1: The cure time for Freesole is 24 hours. br>Reality is as follows: Freesole in a thin sheet can take up to 24 hours to cure, but it can take much longer if it has to fill a real space or gap. If you're rebuilding a sole on a shoe, give yourself at least 48 hours; if you're not sure, give yourself at least 96 hours. That's a lot of globsbr>br>Myth 2: According to Freesole. Your sole needs to be cleaned. Sandpaper is a type of sandpaper that is used to remove scratches after that, use it. br>Reality is as follows: To obtain a good bond, the sole must be extremely clean. A good flat surface is also required. as a result, clean your sole Sandpaper is a type of sandpaper that is used to remove scratches To make a good bonding surface, score it lightly with a small knife. then repeat the process. br>br>Myth No. 3: Freesole can only be used in two ways. The first time you use it, and the second time you cut the tube open. br>Reality is as follows: _PRIOR_ to screwing on the cap, clean the tube. You'll be gluing your cap to your tube if you don't. Place the tube in a ziplock bag and seal it. the next day, reopen the cap and clean any residue that has accumulated. You should be able to use nearly the entire container at this point. Keep in mind to clean your tube. andbr>stuff in a zip lock bag just in case EDIT: After a thorough sole rebuild, here are a few pointers. br>br>I had to replace a large portion of the heel of a tennis shoe. This was typical corner wear, but it was very deep, making stacking thin slices of freesole difficult. The first time I did this, I used paper to make the gutter, and while it worked, the paper was very difficult to remove from the freesole once it dried. I used Transparent scotch tape for the second time (which worked perfectly). So, if you need to build something very "big," make a mold/wall out of transparent tape and fill it until the sole is level. Allow for one hour of drying time. Removing the tape after 5 days is a must. Freesole tends to pool near the scotch tape wall. Trim it carefully if it is higher than the rest of the sole. br>If it's at the same level as the rest of the sole, remove some more freesole and re-fill it. In any case, 4- It will take 5 days for it to cure into the nice hard material that will become your new heel.

Novah Bryant

| Oct 31, 2021

Tips: Rubbing alcohol should be used to clean thoroughly. Wear rubber gloves and make sure there is plenty of airflow. Use painters tape or clamps to hold the shoe together while the glue cures, and painters tape to keep glue away from areas where you don't want it. Before replacing the cap, apply vasoline to the threads to make it easier to remove the cap the next time you want to use it and to keep the glue from drying out. They used to include a black dye tube, but that is no longer the case. It was ideal for repairing your soles in areas where they would be visible. That makes me very upset. I'd appreciate it if someone could tell me how to make this stuff black. I work on hot roofs, and the heat appears to shorten the lifespan of the glue that holds my shoes together. The majority of shoes no longer have stitching. My shoes last twice as long after using this stuff. When the soles of my Keen Austin shoes begin to delaminate, the glue works well to keep them together. I used to buy Timberland shoes and boots, but my most recent pair of loigging boots fell apart while sitting in my closet. With time, the thick molded foam rubber between the inner and outer soles disintegrated, and glue was no longer an option. I also use this glue on the toes of my leather soccer cleats, which are separated from the hard plastic sole plate at the toe.

Madilynn Rocha

| Dec 10, 2021

HORRIBLE! To begin with, I followed the directions to the letter, and the hiking boots' soles came off again after only a few miles. Number two, and this is what irritates me the most, is when you go to use it again after one use and THE CAP DOESN'T COME OFF! Spend all this money on glue, and the glue only sticks the top of the tube to the tube, making it a one-time use item. REALLY? This company can't come up with a better container for a product like this? And, as I've seen in other reviews, we're not the only ones who have this problem. I will never buy from this company again because it was a complete waste of money.

Andy Gonzales

| Apr 09, 2021