Rust-Oleum Zinsser 854 1-Quart Bulls Eye Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer
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We have a professional wood finisher who also works at our local woodcraft store, and I absolutely adore this product. He swears by it and applies it as a base coat to all unfinished wood. All stains and top coats should be applied before. It's essentially a 2 pound cut of shellac that's been stripped of its wax, allowing polyurethane to be applied directly over it. Brush it on and wait 24 hours for it to dry before lightly sanding it with 320 or 400 grit paper. If you stained underneath, don't sand too hard.br>It's not a good idea to use ting oil in humid conditions. I'd use a chemical to remove the old products. 80 grit, 100 grit, 150 grit, and 200 grit sandpaper After that, combine the sealcoat with the alloy. After that, apply a stain and finish with ENDURO pre-cat urethane from General Finishes. br>Three coatsbr>I hope this information is useful.
In this case, I guess I'll have to play devil's advocate. This product can be used as a topcoat without hesitation. It's just shellac that has been dewaxed. As a result, depending on how much you sand/polish, it's ideal for creating a traditional french polish gloss or even a lower gloss satin. If you're going to use it as a topcoat, you'll probably need a few coats to get the desired sheen. I make drums, and I've used this product as a sanding sealer and a stand-alone finish numerous times.
There is wax in this product. Shellac is available for free, and there are two options for applying shellac. cut to the pound
That is the order in which I normally do things. It performs admirably. If you don't allow at least 5-minutes for the dye to bleed through, you'll get some bleed through. Before applying Sealcoat over the dye, allow 6 hours for it to dry. Between the dye and the poly topcoat, I applied two or three coats of Sealcoat.
Selected User Reviews For Rust-Oleum Zinsser 854 1-Quart Bulls Eye Sealcoat Universal Sanding Sealer
I spent far too much time listening to them. As a result, I've read a lot of articles "debunking" the use of dewaxed shellac as a sealer and explaining the product away as a problem in search of a solution. However, after years of doing hobby woodworking projects, I wish I hadn't listened to them and instead tried this product first. br>br>It essentially does two things for you. Before final sanding and coating, one must stabilize the grain, close small pores, and fill in minor scratches. It performs the same functions as a dedicated "grain sealer," but with the added benefit of a water-resistant coating. It has a thick consistency that allows it to be applied quickly with a brush, even to a complex project, without requiring meticulous application or time-consuming cleanup. On the other hand, if you're working with large, open grain woods like walnut, mahogany, or red oak and want a mirror-like finish, A paste-type product, like finish, can take care of it in two steps. SealCoat may require additional work after three coats. br>br>Now, some people skip the sealing step entirely and instead apply multiple coats of polyurethane, sanding in between. This is a good strategy, but it takes a lot of time because poly coats can take up to six hours to dry. It takes 24 hours for the sand to be safe. Shellac, on the other hand, takes only 15 minutes to dry completely. In the range of 30 minutes. I've included images of two quick projects: Walnut and mahogany are two types of wood that are used to make furniture. With two coats of SealCoat and some nitrocellulose lacquer, the project was completed in under three hours. That would have taken a lot more effort prior to discovering SealCoat. br>br>The second major benefit of dewaxed shellac is that it adheres to almost any surface, including wood treated with tung or linseed oil - After that, it'll take just about anything you throw at it, including water. oil-based and based on polyurethanes with a urethane base This means that a quick coat of shellac over the existing finish is an excellent way to avoid fisheye issues and other issues with whatever you're applying on top. br>br>(Shellac isn't a particularly good finish for any project that will be subjected to abuse on its own; Solvents and heat are very damaging to it.
The best preservative ever is Rustoleum Zinsser 854. I've been experimenting with different stains on pine baseboard. I'd tried everything with little success and was about to give up, but I'm glad I tried this stuff first. Things I tried included a variety of sanding combinations (the best was 80, followed by 120, and then 180). I experimented with MinMax prestain as well as other prestains. That stuff is completely ineffective and washes out all of the colors. To open the pores in the wood, I used water. Gel Stain was one of the products I experimented with. Everything I could think of was tried. At best, I was able to produce results that were mediocre in appearance. Then I used Zinsser 854 SealCoat Shellac as a preservative. I used 80, 120, and 180 grit 3M sandpaper to sand the surface by hand. Sanding sponges should be avoided in favor of sandpaper. The wood did not take the stain when I used sponges, despite their claims of being 80, 120, and 180 grit. Then, using Zinsser 854 diluted 1:3, apply a thin coat. Using a brush, apply 1 drop of denatured alcohol. Apply a thin coat instead of a thick one as the can instructs. Simply dampen the brush and cover the entire piece (it's nearly transparent, so it's easy to miss spots). I waited 30 minutes for it to dry before using a pad to apply Rustoleum Dark Walnut stain. Ignore the can's instructions, which say to wipe on thick and wait 5 minutes. Wipe it on and get the texture you're looking for as soon as possible. Other stains, on the other hand, may behave in a different way. br>br>I couldn't believe how lovely the results were after weeks of struggle. Both pieces came from the same piece of pine baseboard, and the top piece has the Zinsser 854 Shellac prestain, while the bottom piece is my previous best effort. I almost didn't want to use a poly sealer, but I used the Rustoleum Polyurethane Satin and it turned out even better. br>br>It's a mystery why this stuff isn't sold in stores (the Shellacs there aren't suitable), but amazon comes to the rescue.
I've been using this product in my woodworking for longer than I care to remember, but I do recall when Zinser stamped the manufacturing date on the can. I then recall Rust-Oleum purchasing them and converting the date to code - However, one of our customers was able to crack and decipher it. There is now only an encrypted code on the bottom of the can, and there is no way to tell how old it is. It was never clear how long it would last - Many professional shellac users said no more than six months, according to Zinser. When I make my own shellac from flakes, I use it within three months or discard it. I've tried old Zinser cans, and it's clear that it doesn't age well. It's important to remember that the goal is to create a chemical reaction with the alcohol, not to keep air out of the can - It is impossible to extend the useful life of mixed shellac. br>br>In any case, while I am grateful for R-, I understand why they continue to sell this product, as I can only imagine the difficulties in selling a product with such a finicky shelf life; however, their unwillingness to inform customers about the product's age is a source of concern for me. As a result, three stars have been assigned. If you get a good can, this is a great product; if you get an old can, you'll have to do some extra work on your project to fix the problems that old shellac causes.
Any type of water-based liquid can be made with it. This stuff can be used in a variety of ways. Woodworking is my main hobby, and I've discovered a lot of applications for it. It's what I use on top of my assembly bench to keep the hardboard smooth and presentable. It slows the absorption of any water-based liquids I might spill, giving me more time to clean them up before they completely ruin my work surface. As a wood conditioner, this product is fantastic. If you're staining a wood that blotches easily. A cut of this stuff mixed with denatured alcohol should suffice. It can also be used to control the amount of stain absorbed into porous wood species when staining them. However, it has a wide range of applications. It seals up some MDF nicely with a couple coats of this stuff. If you're painting any type of wood and want a glassy smooth finish, this is the product to use. This is the first coat you should apply. It should be sanded smooth before being primed or painted over. This can also be done with a Zinsser Shellac-based primer, but this seal coat is a little easier to work with. This seal coat doesn't give any wood an unwelcome yellow tint. You can also use dye to color it. I keep a few quarts of this stuff in my shop at all times.
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