Fender HiMass 4-String Bass Bridge Assembly with Zinc Saddles - Chrome
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Yes, it should be able to replace the standard vintage bridge without any changes.br>
It's a genuine Fender product, and it's a fantastic bridge. It was incredibly simple to set up.
YES! My fretless and fretted basses both benefitted greatly from this bridge.
Yes. This bridge was used on a Jaguar bass that I modded about a year ago. It was the perfect fit.
Selected User Reviews For Fender HiMass 4-String Bass Bridge Assembly with Zinc Saddles - Chrome
On a 2007 MIM Jazz Bass, I installed this. The benefits include: It lasts longer and is extremely attractive. The major disadvantage is that Because the base plate is much thicker than stock, it has a high mass. The maximum mass is zero. Stock is 0" while the length is 25". 06'. This indicates that I had issues with intonation. The action was still too high after fully lowering the first and fourth strings. It was necessary for me to make a neck shim, which is not an easy task.
The fender p bridges that come with the car are terrible. One of the first eight songs in the set failed. I slapped this hello-there note on my desk. On the bass, I've added a mass bridge, and it's now a mean mf! It's as solid as a rock now that I've dropped it all the way down. It also seems to give the tone a little more oomph. It's probably got around 20 gigs on it now, and it's still going strong! Fender should just put these on stock and charge $30 more for them. I have three (2 p's and one mustang), and I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if it came stock!.
For my MIM Jazz bass, this is a nice branded upgrade. The body has a strong connection to it. The feeling and resonance of the body are actually improved by adding mass. All I had to do was unscrew the saddle screws on the top and bottom strings (at the lowest possible tension). The two middle saddles are only half-turned (to accommodate the neck radius). Also, give the truss rod a half turn to straighten the neck out a little. If I shim the neck, it could be perfect, but that would be a big project with little payoff. When I go for it and clean with normal to light force, I like the action to be snappy (with an initial slap buzz). Those looking for low-key action should beware. One more millimeter of adjustment down would almost certainly make it perfect (hence the four stars). I appreciate your taking the time to read this. br>br>Creative+ paraphrase: I used a 1/8" ply shim to shim the neck. Now I'm feeling much better. As a result, without the shim, the bridge does not fit properly. I'm considering returning to the old bridge because the neck-to-body joint is likely more important than a high-mass bridge, no matter how nice and shiny it is.
My Fender Player Precision Bass is a simple upgrade! Remove the old bridge and replace it with this one. The tonality has already been established. Adjust the string height if necessary. In terms of tone, I doubt anyone will notice a difference, but it looks so much better, and I believe it increases sustain psychologically. The Hipshot Kickass bridge is a little less expensive, but it performs just as well.
Replacement of the old style bridge is a simple process that keeps your bass genuine Fender. br>br>The process of adjusting string height and intonation is incredibly smooth and precise. br>br>The bass guitar will have a better resonance. The vibration in the neck can be felt, and the instrument is acoustically louder and has a better tone. br>br>When connected to an amp, the tone becomes rounder and more full, with a solid attack. br>br>Open strings have a rich tone and last for a long time. br>br>Looks tough "if you're into the cool factor"br>br>Adds about 5 ounces of weight to help keep the neck up. "Not that jazz basses dive a lot"br>br>*Note
Everything I wrote is a little more than minor tweaks. Expect no drastic changes, but it's a step in the right direction toward improved tone and playability. String height can be adjusted using the truss rod if you know how. It's a half-hour job that can be done with a better bridge setup. br>br>**If your truss rod tension is already set correctly, there is no need to add or release tension*
br>1) check your fret board for correct relief "correct if needed"br>2) remove stringsbr>3) remove old bridgebr>4) install new bridge "use original screws"br>5) install strings to pitchbr>6) adjust string height "retune after adjustments"br>7) set intonation "harmonic at 12th fret br>br>If you're not familiar with the 7 steps, hire a guitar tech for $45 to install it properly. br>br>Have fun with it!.
Note: There are no screws included with the bridge. What's not to like about it? It's a classic Fender (no puns, please). For those who are curious, mine did not include screws.
The high-mass bridge is one of my favorites. Since then, I've taken my beloved hip shot off of my older fender fretless p bass. I recently purchased a new fender with a high mass bridge stock. The sustain was fantastic. So I put one on my older P bass and was completely blown away. For my fretless fender j bass, I also purchased one. Installing it was a breeze. In terms of intonation, saddles have a wide range.
My luthier installed this bridge on the back of my Fender Jazz bass. The end result appeals to both of us. I like how long it lasts and how stable it is. It also has a fantastic appearance. I'm not sure if it will fit under a bridge cover (ash tray), but I have no intention of doing so. Enjoy.
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