PRECISE 2" - 6" Bore Gauge 0.001" Increment Set: TM-34260
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Mine included an English-language manual as well as two other languages, I believe. However, if that isn't the case, try Goodson. Engine machinists and jegs can go to www.enginemachinists.com. This particular bore gauge is available from Jegs. You might be able to get a copy from them if you ask nicely. The dial on my watch was different when I got it. I'm not sure if it'll be the same as others in the manual. You'll be fine if you know your math and have micrometers or even calipers on hand.
It is stated in the item description that the item measures in. The one I ordered in June 2019 measures in at 001" (one thousandth of an inch). 0001, or one ten thousandth of an inch, is even more precise than stated.
This instrument is used to check if something is out of round, such as a cylinder bore in an engine.
Eleven anvils are included in the kit. One of which is already present in the tools. When everything is in the case, there is an extra slot. To clarify things, we usually put a label on the case, but our employee apparently forgot to do so. Please accept my sincere apologies for any inconvenience this has caused you. Please do not hesitate to contact us if you have any additional questions. Dan Taylor can be reached at 978-501-54230.
Selected User Reviews For PRECISE 2" - 6" Bore Gauge 0.001" Increment Set: TM-34260
This gauge is fantastic! It's a lot easier to use than the old inside expandable gauges, which required each measurement to be taken with a caliper. This gauge makes checking taper, oval, and overall wear, as well as comparing cylinders, a breeze. The only difficult part is calibrating it before starting to measure. You use a caliper as well as all three of your hands to complete the task. I only have two and it was difficult for me to complete this task. You must hold both bore gauge anvils against the caliper blades while setting and locking the bore gauge dial at the same time after setting the caliper to the ten thousandth. Once you figure out how to do this, you are set. I discovered that if I kept an eye on the needle on the dial indicator while adjusting the anvils, I could put the caliper down and set the gauge to the reading I had noticed. After about three repetitions, I had the bore gauge almost perfectly set. When you get it in your hands, you'll understand what I mean. It's a joy to use once it's been set up.
The best tool for measuring cylinders is without a doubt this one. It's crucial to remember that you'll need a second micrometer or dial caliper to properly use this tool. This dial indicator bore gauge can only measure a few hundred thousandths of an inch, less than a quarter of an inch, but it has a range of 2 to 6 inches. It includes pins and shims for measuring diameters greater than 2 inches. The pin is screwed on close to the size that needs to be measured. Then you adjust your dial caliper to the desired size, lock it, and slide it over the bore gauge's ends. It's set when the bore gauge dial is zeroed out at the maximum reading. After you've set it up, you'll be able to see how far out of tolerance each measurement is quickly and easily. This tool is extremely simple to learn and use. It's as simple as inserting it into the cylinder and rocking it back and forth on the wheels. Your measurement is the highest possible reading. Every time, it's perfect, and it's easy to repeat. The is one of my favorites. The large spaces between the numbers, as well as the 0005 increments on the dial, make estimating difficult. 0001 is a simple number. Another thing to keep in mind is that your maximum reading will be the shortest distance between the bore gauge's ends. Because this is counterintuitive, the majority of people will get it wrong. When the dial is set to -, When you see the number 001, it means the measurement is. When the dial reaches, it is 001 too large. The number 001 denotes that the measurement is. The number 001 is incorrect. I've always had great luck with dial indicators; they seem to withstand a lot of abuse quite well. This one has been bumped and banged a little, but it still works fine.
This is the second time I've used this model. I thought I'd never need to measure cylinders again after selling my first one and buying a new one, but of course I did. I'm keeping mine this time. br>br>The price is very reasonable, and the accuracy is phenomenal if you learn how to read it correctly. It's easy to replicate. Calipers or a micrometer can be used to calibrate it with some skill. Simply place the bore gauge between the calipers' jaws and wiggle it gently until the highest possible reading is consistently obtained. That's your baseline dial position for that precise caliper measurement; after that, you measure the actual bore to get your piston to wall clearance. If you repeat the process a few times and get consistent results, you know you're on the right track. br>br>On a small block Chevy, this is the only gauge you'll need because it measures the cylinders, mains, rods, and cam bearings. Wrist pins are the only thing you can't measure: ) On engines with journals less than 2" - a few tenths of a percent (Mitsubishi 2. You won't be able to use this tool with 0 rods, for example, if my memory serves me correctly. For that, there is a smaller version. br>br>I've considered more expensive name-brand bore gauges, but this one is so precise that it's all you'll ever need. In reality, you can read with a level of accuracy as low as 0. For engine work, 0002 is more than adequate.
A similar item was sent to me. However, the case is blue. It's not a huge deal. However, one of the points was missing, and it wasn't the one that was supposed to be in the gauge (which was there). Other reviewers have mentioned a similar problem, but they don't think it's a big deal because they don't need it. I didn't need it (yet), but I was willing to pay for a complete kit in case I did. I did not devote much time to evaluating the item's quality. It appears to be typical mediocrity from abroad, but I'm sure it would have sufficed for me if I had kept it. I didn't bother with a replacement because this appears to be a common complaint, and I didn't want to waste any more time.
Very precise - My results were all within a tenth of a percentile. When you think about it, 0002" of the machine shop's measurements is pretty crazy. br>br>Aimed me in diagnosing an out-of-the-ordinary situation. I couldn't do anything about it because I couldn't find oversized pistons in the right size for two bores. As a result, the bores were honed as much as possible to ensure that the same pistons could be used safely. When the engine is running and the proper compression is being built, and there is no blow-by, By and large, it appears that there have been no drawbacks.
It takes a little practice to figure out how to get the most out of the gauge, but when used correctly, it can give very accurate readings. Because the printed sizes are off by a few thousands of an inch, you'll need a good inside micrometer set to get the size in its rest position. Once you've determined the resting size, the actual gauge reads very accurately in action, and when I subtracted the reading from the resting size, I was able to confirm its high accuracy when compared to a few other gauges, telescoping gauges, and microphones. I'm working on a race engine, so I'm just checking that the machine shop did everything correctly.
It works great and is a great price, but be aware that there is no way to contact the manufacturer in the event of a problem. Amazon provided us with two possible phone numbers for the manufacturer - Neither of which makes this product, so while Amazon delivers as usual and at a great price, be aware that if you need help, you won't get it.
For the money, it's a good deal. I was able to take precise measurements.
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