Fowler 52-646-300-0 Cylinder Dial Bore Gauge Kit with 6" Range
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The shaft measures about 7 inches in length. Cam bearings will not be able to be measured from the front, and measuring them between the block's webs will take too long. I recommend using a standard internal mike or an extended internal mike. When it comes to cylinders, this is just as good as the expensive ones. I hope this has been of assistance.
Measures a cylinder's inside diameter up to 6 inches.
Note : Because one anvil is already installed in the foot, the largest spot has been purposefully left empty, there are two empty anvil spots.
Its 0. 0005". Every blemish is a quarter of a thou.
Selected User Reviews For Fowler 52-646-300-0 Cylinder Dial Bore Gauge Kit with 6" Range
I thought it was a small metal grandfather clock when I first bought it. It turns out it's some kind of precision measuring device, which is cool and all, but I was hoping it would measure time. br>br>Now for the good stuff: it appears to be well made. It's solid, and it's only. Even if it doesn't measure to, 0005 inches is a nice value. I had hoped for a time of 0005 seconds, and I got it. br>br>I haven't used it yet, but I may do so in the future. Until then, it'll be in my toolbox alongside the micrometers I mistook for c-type. clamps.
I've been using Fowler tools for several decades, and their design philosophy has remained remarkably consistent throughout that time: they're simple, no-frills tools that focus solely on performance. They will produce consistent and accurate results that are adequate for most, but not the most precise machining jobs, and will last a lifetime if handled and stored properly; this bore gage is typical of Fowler in this regard. Some of the internal parts are alloy steel, not stainless steel, and will require light lubrication every few years depending on use. The majority of us do not use a bore gage on a regular basis. We'll make do with a basic one. This should be fine for you if you are willing to invest this level of care, which includes a few drops of oil every now and then and always keeping the dial indicator with the plastic face that is susceptible to scratching or breaking inside the provided case. This isn't a sponsored post. I'm not related to Fowler in any way. I am a big fan of precision tools that are well-priced.
When I received the item and unpacked it, I discovered that the back cover of the dial indicator was cracked, most likely due to factory overtightening of the screws. I tried five times to contact Fowler and never received a response from their online form or a person who could help. The item is acceptable; it is not exceptional, but it fulfills its function. The Fowler warranty and service are completely non-existent. I purchased a less expensive import version that appeared to be made in the same factory and performed similarly. If Fowler is unable to provide a service, it may be best to take the less expensive option.
(It's not Starrett quality, but don't expect Starrett performance if you buy this gage. ) A Starrett bore gauge, after all, costs more than twice as much as this one. ) In a Ford 7, I needed to measure the cylinder bores. This worked perfectly for the three IDI diesel engines I'm rebuilding. It isn't as smooth as a more expensive bore gage, and if I were rebuilding engines on a regular basis, I would invest in a higher-quality (and more expensive) gage. However, for my purposes (I'm merely a hobby mechanic), This will suffice for the time being for this diesel engine rebuild and possibly a few more engine rebuilds in the future).
This gauge was something I really wanted to like. I won't be able to comment on the operation because I will not be performing it. This appears to be a genuine Fowler dial gauge, with the rest being knockoffs. The anvils, handle, spacers, and case all say Fowler, but the anvils, handle, and spacers don't. The dial gauge is the only piece that even mentions Fowler. I'd recommend going with a different vendor.
Because there isn't much information about this tool on the internet, I figured I'd fill in the gaps. This review is based on my experience using the gauge to inspect cylinder bores in an engine block. br>br>Final Thoughts:br>Would I Buy It Again?
- Yes. Would I tell a friend about it? br>
- Yes. Advantages: br>br>
- Exceptional valuebr> - Broad measurement capabilitybr> - It's ideal for assessing out-of-the-box ideas. cylinders, both round and taperedbr> - Cons: The case is sturdy and has a solid overall feel to it. br>br>Pros: The case is sturdy and has a solid overall feel to it. br>b
- Without re-measuring, a measurement increment is made. The configuration tool has a value of 0. 2"
- Measurements are only taken in relation to an external standardbr> - The fit and finish aren't quite as good as they should be. initial quality:br>br>quality toolbr>br>quality toolbr>br>quality toolbr>br>quality toolbr Excellent/adequate The case is sturdy, all of the parts were present, everything fits together properly, and the mechanism operates smoothly. I get the impression it's made by a factory full of people who have no idea what they're doing and don't care. The "INCH DIAL BORE GAUGES 2" is a good example. The 6"" label on the handle was not fully "burnished" or "stuck down," aside from the odd grammar ('inch dial bore gauge' would have sufficed, since the measurement range is determined by the anvil choice). It's not a major issue, but it does demonstrate a lack of attention to detail. In addition, the anvils' tail ends have a small nub in the center where the manufacturer's lathe facing cutter was not set dead on center. This should have been ground/lapped off or the machine set up properly. Because the anvil tail end is not a reference surface and simply extends into a deep bore, the "nubs" have no effect on the tool's performance. The anvils' surface roughness is also unusually coarse for measuring instrument parts. It looks like it's an "as-is" situation. While it's a nice finish, I think it's "just enough" for the price. br>br> For starters, this tool takes relative measurements, which means the user calibrates the dial for the job at hand. As a result, you'll also need an appropriately sized micrometer or a caliper. You can also "set the zero" by measuring the diameter of the piston for which the cylinder is being sized with a micrometer or caliper. You are limited to a maximum of 0. 2" of travel time to get to work within the confines of the building What you will receive: br>br> The case, head/stem/handle assembly, dial indicator, dial indicator protective hood, and 11 anvils are all included in the set. 200 increments (more on that later), a 2" anvil extension, and a 0 02", 0. 05", as well as 0, =)br>br>Anvils: 100 inch anvil spacer washers (I didn't verify the thickness accuracy), instruction/information sheet, and silica gel packet There are eleven of them; One is pre-installed in the measuring head when it is delivered. Don't let the case fool you. Despite the fact that the empty slot on mine appeared to be labeled "no 11 4," there are only 11 anvils. 0"" was a little too far to the left on the label. There is no mistake about Slot 12 being empty. I peeled the label off and re-wrapped it around the bottle. affixed it to make it line up better br>The sizes of anvils are as follows: 0" 2. 2" 2. 4" 2. 6" 2. 8" 3. 0" 3. 2" 3. 4" 3. 6" 3. 8" 4. 0" . Add the two together. 0" extension to any of them for the 4-person group 6" range. A very hard, shiny (tungsten carbide?) spherical tip is affixed to the end of each anvil. br>br>Measuring Head: br>br> This had a knurled threaded collar that held one anvil and a small tip on the other end that was connected to a plunger in the stem by a linkage, the movement of which was read by the dial gauge. A pair of chrome 'donuts' (that don't turn) on a spring-loaded carriage that surrounds the measuring head keep the moving measuring tip centered on the cylinder diameter. You have a maximum of about 0 once more. 2" of travel time to get to work within the confines of the building br>br>Dial gauge: br>br> Range of 25" with a large face, and a score of 0 Graduations of 0. 0005" The dial gauge protective hood is a nice accessory, but it can't be left on the tool in the storage case, as far as I can tell, and it's a pain to install and remove, as it's held on with two Philips-head screws. br>br>The dial gauge protective hood is a nice accessory, but it can't be left on the tool in the storage case, as far as I can tell. screws in the head It almost, almost, but not quite, can be installed without removing the screws, unless I didn't do it correctly. The instruction sheet makes no mention of it. br>br>Instruction sheet: br>br>Instruction sheet: br>br>Instruction sheet If you're rebuilding an engine, you'll probably be able to figure out the tool without any help. OR, at the very least, that's what the manufacturer thinks, given the lack of information. For example, there is no mention of the protective hood or how to install it; there is no mention of how, where, or when to use the spacer washers; there is no mention of how the internals work, if they can be disassembled or adjusted; and there are no maintenance instructions. The instructions are vague, and they use ambiguous terminology and refer to parts and features that aren't defined.
This bore gage performs as well as any of the expensive bore gages I've used in the last 25 years. It's a little more difficult to adjust than the models I use that have their own dedicated setting micrometer bases, but once set, the dial is smooth, easy to read, and doesn't move. For the time being, I'm going to leave it at 4. 030", and I'll use my other gages to make various sizes. This bore gage has made me very happy.
It's deep enough that you can feel it with your fingernail. Not good. It was a replating that I had to pay for. I'm purchasing my first and final Fowler tool. From now on, I'll stick to Mitutoyo.
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