50PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors by haisstronica Heat Shrink Solder Connectors Waterproof Wire Connectors Electrical Insulated Marine Waterproof Automotive Terminals with Case（50Blue 16-14）
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In the back of my old F350, I had to replace all the wires. The blue crush connectors caused damage to the wires. Made new wires with new connectors in the plug, then reattached about 26 connections with these solder connectors. I made a mistake on one of them. With a regular heat gun, they didn't melt as quickly as crimp connectors, but they did the job just as well. I just ordered 200 more blue connectors so that I'll have them whenever I need them for the rest of my life.
I'm not sure what they are, but they seem to work well with my trailer lights.
The wire gauge is important because a good system will have a thicker gauge. If you have strippers, use them to determine the wire's gauge before purchasing the proper crimp size. These aren't designed for splicing, but it's something that people do all the time, and a crimp will provide a better connection.
I've used their products, and they're excellent and reasonably priced.
Selected User Reviews For 50PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors by haisstronica Heat Shrink Solder Connectors Waterproof Wire Connectors Electrical Insulated Marine Waterproof Automotive Terminals with Case（50Blue 16-14）
That's all there is to it in the world of wire connections! It creates a solid connection that you can't pull apart (trust me, I tried). I liked them so much that when I was wiring up my boat, I needed blade connectors, which aren't available in this style yet. Between the solder ring and the adhesive ring, I cut off one side. After that, I disassembled a regular blade connector and only kept the interior blade/metal crimp section. I crimped it in place and then slid the trimmed sleeve down until the solder section was visible above the crimp/wire section. The colder melted the connector and permanently fused it to the wire. I've never been so enthusiastic about a wire connector! It also adhesively seals the opposite end against the wire! This is fantastic. You'll never have to do it again if you use these and do it correctly the first time!.
I'm making use of these off-the-shelf items. purpose - I'm using these to cleanly solder a wire to a pin rather than connecting two wires. In my stereo, I have a circuit board. My first three attempts went off without a hitch, but the fourth proved to be problematic - The solder had failed to adhere to the pin. I cut the wire, used regular electrical solder to tin the pin, and then tried a new connector, which worked perfectly. (I'm cutting one side of the connector about 1/4 inch away from the solder so that the pin can stick into the solder. ) ) Now I know to tin each pin before attaching the connector and wire. br>br>So far, these things have been incredible - I've just placed an order for some different sizes. I'm using a heat gun with a narrow tip set to 300 degrees F, but I'm thinking of switching to 320 to make things easier and faster. I use a 405°F iron for regular soldering, so regular solder never melts when I use the heat gun. This is fantastic because it makes soldering to the pin much safer. br>br>The Red Connectors barely fit my 18 gauge wire, and if the insulation is deformed in any way, getting the connector over the wire can be difficult; however, 20 gauge wire has no such issues. Still, the tight fit is ideal for my needs because it keeps the wire in place while the internal solder is heated.
This is a fantastic set of connectors. Heat activates the heat shrink, sealant at both ends, and melts the solder after a while. A temperature of at least 280 degrees Fahrenheit is required. Because the small blower I use for heat shrinking isn't hot enough, I use a desoldering tool. To concentrate the hot air stream, I have a reducing nozzle on the desoldering tool. It takes about 15 seconds for the solder to completely melt. You're ready to go once the connection has stabilized. It's water-resistant and extremely durable. tight. I also tore the copper wires when I was finally able to separate the connections, which took a lot of effort. The seals did not dive very far because the silicone shell stretched nearly an inch.
The concept is fantastic, but the connection isn't as strong as it would be if you used a soldering iron and solder. I used these in a test to see if they would penetrate, and when I cut the connecter at the solder point, it was clear that it didn't bond the wires very well, so I melted the solder with a professional heat gun. The bond is much better when you use a soldering iron and solder. Also, due to the size of the heat gun and the inability to reach all sides of the connector, such as under a car's dash, these won't work if you're working in a tight space.
Solder requires more heat to melt than heatshrink can withstand. However, for the solder to wick, these require a lot of heat, which usually means the heatshrink will burn and leak solder. The solder band is also quite small, and when it does wick, it does not completely fill the wire. Because the openings on both ends of the connector were inconsistent, some wires with thicker jackets did not always fit. The diameter of one side of the heat shrink was always smaller than the other. To get the solder to wick, I had to use a liquid flux, which added an extra step I didn't want to do and would have rendered these unusable if I hadn't already had flux on hand. usable.
Most likely, I was overheated. I used a heat gun to remove the paint from the stripper. br>br>By the time the solder appeared to be melting, everything had become extremely soft. The clear plastic tore and the solder joint flexed to about a 45' angle when I touched the mend about a minute later. br>I redid my connection and waited for it to cool down. On a cool 45° day, 15 minutes is plenty. br>There was no problem with the connection. br>br>PRO TIP. ALLOW IT TO COOL COMPLETELY PRIOR TO SERVING.
These are fantastic for soldering connections, and I highly recommend them. They make the job much easier, and they're as tough as they should be given the amount of heat they're exposed to. It takes a second or two for the solder to spread, so it may not appear to be spreading much at first. This is, however, not the same as being on a wire in the open air. Because this is now inside a waterproof connection, it must be sealed. So keep that in mind before concluding that it isn't working.
I began by purchasing a sampler pack that included a variety of sizes. For many LED strip light projects, I used the smallest ones (white). I only needed a few more of the smaller ones and none of the larger ones. This refill size of 100 packs was exactly what I required. These connectors appeal to me a lot - They're simple to use and appear to be far more secure than butt connectors. I recommend that anyone who works on wiring projects have a few of these on hand; they are the best connectors I've found.
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