CrocSee Miniature Current Switch, CS-TS0, Normally Open Amp Sensor Monitoring Relay, AC 1-50A Detectable
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The current switch is capable of handling secondary loads at 1A @ 240 VAC. a 240V circuit, the 120V hot line is the only one Additionally, if the current being measured is less than 1A, you should loop the wire through the sensor coil to increase the * ** Cross-reference The core current is the actual current x the number of loops around the sensor coil *. the measured device has no current draw, then the device is not measured. Using the sensor coil as a conductor, wrap the wire around it three times, and it will produce a current of 1 amp. A current of 5A is required.
The AC switch has a dry set of contacts which close when they detect 1 to 50 amps of AC, so its rated range is 1 to 2 amps so whether it is AC or DC, it doesn't matter as long as you don't exceed its current rating. There is a 5 amp limit.
No, you can't run both 120V lines through the current-sensing switch because the electromagnetic fields from the two 120V lines will cancel one another out as far as being able to sense Despite their 180 degrees difference, they're both moving in the same direction. Because of the metal sheath, it is that much more difficult to detect In order to operate this switch, you must create a single hotline.
Selected User Reviews For CrocSee Miniature Current Switch, CS-TS0, Normally Open Amp Sensor Monitoring Relay, AC 1-50A Detectable
I attached a UV light to it A C light shines in my furnace duct work, and normally a UV lamp does too A light on the C circuit would be on all the time, so I used a current switch to detect the neutral wire on the furnace. Thus, you can now use UV-protective clothing in winter as well as in summer Only when the furnace blower is on does the C light come Radiation from UV-C In its place, the C light will now last for years, not just a (The bulb should last 9,000 hours, which is a year of continuous operation Update ) A reader asked for a diagram showing how the UV light is controlled. The pictures show you what I mean. If you do this, you should have your furnace turned off. Since I had to extend the "white" wire from the blower motor, the blue "butt connectors" are what I used. I hope this is enough information to give you an idea of There is currently only support for two connections with the switch. Since your outlet has 5 amps of load, I recommend marking yours like I did, to ensure the furnace repair person does not fill the outlet with The stranded red wires leading to and from my current switch are 14 gauge. The outlet supplying the UV light will only light up when the blower motor is running, so you can prefer black or red depending on what you have. It is possible that the "hot" wires on your blower motor are another color than the one I show in the diagram, but you want to make sure your red wire goes to the white wire of your blower motor. Thus, regardless of what speed your blower motor runs, the current switch will always be on. By looping the wire twice through the switch, I have now connected the white wire to the light It is not necessary to do this.
All of my water treatment chemical feed pumps were connected to a float switch in a cistern contact tank, as was the controller for my submersible well pump. All pumps would immediately start working as soon as the float switch dropped, allowing chemically-treated water and well water to fill The arrangement is fine, but if the well runs dry, it will become problematic. A dry well would trigger the pump controller to shut off the submersible pump (as it should), but the chemical pumps would continue to run, allowing the chemicals to saturate the cistern until the well recovered and the float switch was I found the CrocSee current switch to be just the medicine this issue needed to be easily fixed. It is currently placed around one of the wires downstream of the pump controller that connects the submersible pump to the pump. An interruption in the power feed to each of the two chemical feed pumps is caused by the switch. Since now, the current switch detects the presence of power from the submersible pump and shuts down the chemical feeds as soon as the pump is running. When the pump controller detects no water in the well, the power to the submersible pump is cut off. It open as soon as no current is sent to the submersible pump and this stops the chemical pumps from working. As soon as a well runs dry, the cistern is no longer saturated with chemical corrosion products. In the event of one leg of the 220 volt feed to the chemical pumps getting interrupted, their operation will be halted. During operation, the switch does not generate heat and switches quickly from one power source to another. Thanks so much for this product - I am very pleased with it It takes $20 for a million dollars to save You don't want dollar headaches.
I have found this device to detect current flow as advertised and turn the output on. Despite the fact that it may work better for turning on a line voltage AC device, it is not very useful for switching a low voltage digital device. As I recall, I read an answer to one of the questions that stated the output of this unit is a dry contact (relay). In fact, that is not true. I am hoping to use this switch to attach a digital input to ground, which in turn will be used by an automation system to detect when a well pump is running. As long as the relay is a true mechanical dry contact relay, this is not an issue. It has, however, a solid state relay which has a very high "ON/closed" resistance, similar to that of many devices in this class. The sixth column). A switch output was monitored with an analog input and an analog trigger was triggered by a threshold. This way, I was able to get my system to work. The application worked, but it wasn't the best solution for my needs. Therefore, if you have a digital application like mine, you should beware of the potential pitfalls of this switch. There are other devices available that would perform better in this situation.
Switching a light circuit that was tripped by a photocell worked well with this. Three extra wraps of 10 gauge solid copper wire were sufficient to detect AC, and I was able to switch about six amps of an AC light circuit. The only switch that will be affected by this is switch A relay in AC/AC mode is essential as the power is only 5 amps. The only thing I don't like about the construction is the attachments for the switches. It would be nice to have a bit more durability in these screws -- Although they worked, they did not last.
This caused my project to be delayed and caused me to lose hundreds of dollars. It was not possible to close the contacts. My project might be interrupted and delayed for a few days since having to do installation twice would cost me hundreds of wasted hours. Think twice. If your time is worthless or your project might be interrupted and delayed - think twice. Even if this is not what I need, the specs are exactly what I need.
As it uses the magnetic field in the power wire to the HVAC fan to turn it on, it doesn't wear out. The fan must be operating in order to operate. It was used to turn on and off a UV lamp for my HVAC system at the same time. We should be able to make the lamp last for several years, instead of only one.
During installation we used this current sensing relay to connect the vent hood to the make up air and it worked flawlessly. One thing that would make this product more versatile would be to make the current sensing either adjustable or able to adjust sensitivity, but the wide range of things it can actually do is great for such a small device.
While I haven't used this unit yet, what I have seen and experienced in my use of a slightly different switch indicates that it is a well-built and easy-to-use device. In order to tell when my mini-garage needs to be repaired, I'm using this device The heat pump of the split system begins to operate. With a 0, it is unreliable. The fifth thing to remember The condenser begins to operate with over 1A of alive current, which I had hoped the item wouldn't sense and it doesn't close until the condenser is turned on. I am very satisfied with how it works.
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