Wallmaster Bike Ceiling Mount Lift Hoist Hanger Storage Rack for Garage Indoor
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I believe it would hold 100 pounds if it was mounted to a rafter rather than just the sheet rock.
That's what I think. However, the hook would have to be strung this way when it was installed, rather than simply turned around. The bike hooks' cords must be kept separate and not twisted, or they will tangle and become impossible to raise.
The brackets are metal, but the pulleys are plastic. For the most part, they appear to be strong enough. bikes.
Yes, it attaches to the bike's wheels or underbody.
Selected User Reviews For Wallmaster Bike Ceiling Mount Lift Hoist Hanger Storage Rack for Garage Indoor
You don't need to make the modifications I made because the design will work as is. but. br>br>I personally don't like attaching anything overhead that bears any significant weight with lag bolts through drywall to hit a ceiling joist because you never know for sure if you hit the center of the wood and have a strong, sound support. Based on the spacing of my joists (24" centers), I also wanted to raise the bicycles up to a different location than the joist location. This is also influenced by the ceiling joists' direction of travel. My joists are parallel to the 2x6 and run perpendicular to it. I chose to use several lag bolts and deck screws to secure 2x6s across the span of three of my ceiling joists so that I could be confident in their load bearing capacity and general safety. The brackets are too long for a standard 2x6. br>br>The first minor irritant is that they are too long for a standard 2x6. As you can see in the photos, the attachment flanges extend beyond the edges of a 2x6. The brackets were attached to the 2x6 with an angle bracket. I suppose it would have worked if I had used a 2x10 (because I don't believe a 2x8 would have provided enough wood attachment area at the edges). Be aware that a 2x10 is more expensive and overkill for a bicycle's weight. The height of the hooks from the ceiling is a minor annoyance as well. br>br> To reduce the distance between the hooks and the pulleys, I removed the "Y" yoke and replaced it with an aluminum "L" piece. This allows me to raise the bicycle much closer to the ceiling, giving me more headroom beneath it when it's raised. br>br>The bend in the hooks was the third minor annoyance. Lifting and holding onto the backs of my bicycle seats (I made two of these lifts) is simply insufficient. The hooks had to be bent in my bench vise so they would securely grab onto the back bottoms of my bicycle seats and not slip off when I raised or lowered the bike; the standard bends in the hooks worked fine for the handlebars. br>br>The fourth minor annoyance was that one of the hoist hangers was bent after being removed from the box, and the safety rope stop was broken. It now works properly after I bended it back. br>br>The rope itself is the last minor issue. Yes, it works, but it's cheap and of poor quality, so if you use the hoist frequently, you'll need to replace the rope sooner than you think. I'll only be using the hoists and rope for winter storage, so I'm not concerned about the rope wearing out. br>br>However, for the money, and if you don't mind living with the standard design, it serves its purpose well and saves garage floor space. It's simple to use, and the pulley system reduces the bike's weight to just over a quarter of what it would be on the ground. I would, however, strongly advise you to bend the hooks that grip under the seat to ensure that they are firmly in place. I gave it four stars because it does what it's supposed to do, it's cheap (until you do what I did), and it's easy to use. )) but not 5 due to the aforementioned reasons.
The under-saddle hooks are designed to hook under a "lip" on your saddle. For my two road bikes, I purchased two racks. The saddles on each bike are different, and neither has a lip to keep the hooks from slipping out from under the saddle; they are simply smooth. Without the modification shown in my photo, I'd be concerned that the hooks would allow the bike to fall. A solution must be developed by the manufacturer. Aside from that, the system works well and is simple to operate. It was a bit of a pain to put it up. Working at the top of a ladder, however, comes with its own set of challenges.
It is very simple to set up. I do suggest mounting a 2x6 to the ceiling first, as this will make installing the list much easier. I installed a 36" board by first locating the ceiling truss and connecting it with lag bolts, then mounting the lift to the board and threading the cord.
The pulleys deteriorate to powder after a few years in a hot garage. br>This bike hoist, and all others like it, are low-cost junk. The hook assemblages distinguish this model. All of these are the same, regardless of brand. Every brand is produced in the same way. If you're stuck with this product, however, here are some installation tips: br>*Attach a 2X4 to the ceiling with 4" deck screws before attaching the lift. Ensure that the screws are driven into the joists. br>*Avoid using sheet rock screw anchors or anything similar. *The screws should not be used to attach sheetrock to joists through sheetrock. Too short, and the heads will fall off. As a result, fasten it to the ceiling with a 2x4. Pre- On 16" centers, drill with a 1/8" bit. Drill all the way through the 2x4 if possible. br>*An impact drill/driver is the best tool for driving the crappy screws. br>*Do not use the so-called "safety release. " It's poorly constructed and prone to jamming. Then you must re-enter the ladder to un-enter. jam it. Is that really safe? Install the unit with the safety release mechanism facing the center of the 2x4. br>*Best recommendation: Make your own from a similar item to "Yosoo 2" Dia V- "Groove" pulleys are pulleys that have a groove in them. Okay, that's a little excessive, but it'll keep you going for a long time.
I bought two of these to suspend a 26" and 700C rim bike; installation was simple, but getting the bikes where you want them may require 3/4" thick boards to be mounted to overhead studs/frames and then the hoists to be mounted to the boards. The pulleys themselves aren't made of metal, but they appear to be sturdy. The provided cord is long enough to lift the bike to a comfortable height. On a lower installation, this much cord would be too much to wrap around the included cleat, which is rather small. I trimmed the cord to a more manageable length, melted the ends, and wrapped the cord neatly with two nails spaced about a foot apart. Because my pull cord is located above the bike seat, the back of the bike rises before the front, but you can compensate by pulling down on the pulley cord, which will level the bike as it rises. You can do some light maintenance on the bike while standing comfortably by lowering it to the appropriate level, rather than having to turn it upside down on the floor and kneel/bend to get to it. This product is unquestionably superior to hanging the bike from two overhead hooks that hold the wheels in place. I've used the hoists a couple of times now, and neither bike has fallen over in over a month.
It really works. I replaced the screws with ones I already had, built two braces between the cross beams, and secured everything with large lag bolts. Also, the hooks that came with the kit are fine, but I wanted something more secure, so I replaced them with some 200-pound Velcro loops with carabineer.
The product was relatively simple to set up. All that was left was to locate the ceiling and wall studs. It was a little difficult to secure the knot at the end. It was well-made and simple to assemble in general. Install time is 30 minutes.
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