Ultimate Walnut Oil by Mahoney's Finishes: Food Safe Wood Finish for Satin Sheen/ Easy To Use, FastDrying Wood Protective Finish/ Salad Bowl, Cutting Board, Utility and Furniture Walnut Wood Protectant
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I only use my oil on my cutting board and knife handles, but I would say that covering the tabletop should be no problem, and you should be able to get multiple applications.
This is more of a wood preserver than a wood protector. It keeps the wood oiled by soaking into it. The wood would be sealed with a preservative that would sit on top. However, I've discovered that after scratches have been made on the surface, this product helps to reduce the visual impact of the scratches.
It takes a lot of 16 ounces to make a big difference. Simply coat the item in the substance and allow it to absorb completely. The second coat doesn't need to be as liberal as the first coat usually seals around 80%. I wouldn't let it sit for more than a couple of hours before wiping away the excess.
Possibly. Oils polymerize over time, according to my understanding; lindseed oil, for example, takes an eternity to dry. Walnut oil is relatively quick, in my opinion. Most likely based on my own personal experiences. The best results come from using multiple light sources over a long period of time. Walnut oil is a breeze to work with, in my opinion.
Selected User Reviews For Ultimate Walnut Oil by Mahoney's Finishes: Food Safe Wood Finish for Satin Sheen/ Easy To Use, FastDrying Wood Protective Finish/ Salad Bowl, Cutting Board, Utility and Furniture Walnut Wood Protectant
I'll go over how I've used it and how it works in more detail down below. br>br>HOW TO USE ITbr>I've refinished Ikea Gerton tabletops with Mahoney's. In general, I'll sand the surface from 200 to 1000 grits until it's smooth and free of blemishes. free. After that, I'll use three different techniques. 6 coats of oil, 24 hours between coats, fully rubbing the product into the wood before allowing it to dry between coats. After that, I'll leave it for at least two weeks to cure. br>br>HOW IT WORKSbr>This is a slow-moving process. I'll wait *at least* two weeks before using the surface, as I mentioned previously. To be honest, it can take up to a month for this product to dry to the point where it leaves no residue when you use it. This was something I was expecting, and it did not let me down. The oil darkens the wood gently and adds a wonderful sheen, contrast, and depth to the surface, making it look almost like a burled maple in the way the light catches it. When it finally dries, it has a very natural appearance and feels very smooth. It's not a particularly tough finish, and it will scratch and wear over time. Again, this was exactly what I was looking for, so I was satisfied. There's a reason why this is recommended for bowls rather than table tops, but I'm picky about my wood finishes, and this fit the bill perfectly for what I needed. br>br>OVERALLbr>I can say that I'm satisfied with Mahoney's in general, especially after learning to work around its flaws. It takes a long time to dry, so patience is required; it's an oil finish, so it doesn't provide a lot of protection, so gentleness (or patience with refinishing or re-finishing) is required; it's an oil finish, so it doesn't provide a lot of protection, so gentleness (or patience with refinishing or re-finishing) is required; and it's an oil finish, so It is necessary to apply it on a regular basis. If you prefer a more natural-looking finish with a lot of satiny depth, it's lovely. If it still appeals to you, pick up a bottle and give it a try! I'm a big fan of it.
I used it to buy a large wooden salad bowl with matching wooden utensils and a wooden stand. It worked well as a restorer and preservative, so I used a lot of it and reapplied it several times, giving it time between applications. I also used it on a custom-made wooden eclectic end table with small details and an old wooden chest. Everything is in excellent condition. Finally, I've discovered something that I'm confident will maintain the wood's beauty. Over the years, I've experimented with a variety of products. This is the one I'll use every time. The low price was well worth it, and the delivery time and packaging were excellent as well! This is a company from which I will continue to place orders. You will not be dissatisfied with your purchase. I didn't apply it to the veneers. Other applications can be found in the product description.
It's incredibly simple to use. Because of the bottle's small aperture, dispensing the oil is very precise. It's nontoxic, and I like that I can spread it with my fingers. My counter was left with a lovely golden color and enhanced grain. My contractor requested a photograph of my kitchen for his website. br>br> The unfinished maple wood absorbed a lot of the oil. I made a countertop out of it. To save money, I used an edible organic cold pressed linseed for the non-visible part of the countertop, the underneath. Mahoney's Ultimate Walnut Oil was used to finish the top. One cup of oil was absorbed by the first coat of the 7 foot by 26 inch counter. For the next couple of hours, I kept reapplying it where the wood appeared "dry. " It took two hours for the wood to maintain a sheen. After that, I wiped away all of the excess oil and waited for it to polymerize, which took several days. There were patches that appeared and felt dry again by that point. I repeated the process for several more coats before applying the wax finish. It took me a few weeks because I didn't apply the next coat until there was no oil mark on my paper towel. I really like how it looks. I'm not sure if it'll last long. However, I am confident that reapplying will be a breeze.
We were ecstatic to begin using this oil, which appeared to have been designed by a group of scientists. Our walnut counter tops go great with it. It was difficult to determine how well it protected the wood, but several days after application, I noticed an ashy appearance. I'd use the oil to spot treat a section, only to discover that it was actually getting worse after a few days. We switched back to regular walnut oil from the grocery store and butcher's block conditioner, and the counter tops are now looking better.
OMG. I really enjoy it. It breathes new life into all those wooden kitchen objects that are subjected to so much wear and tear on a daily basis. Walnut oil is especially good for cutting boards, and Mahoney's is the best this kitchen geek has found. I even used it on a scratched wooden countertop, and it added another 10 years to the life of the surface before a serious resurfacing effort was required. It even improved the appearance of utensil handles (old wooded knives, wooden handled stir sticks, and so on). It's possible that you'll need several coats of the product, especially if you're working with dried wood. This is well worth your time and effort. There were no leaks in the package when it arrived.
Mike Mahoney makes a living as a bowl maker. So it stands to reason that he'd know exactly how to finish. I've been turning for 20 years and have only recently begun to use this finish. It's the most impressive thing I've ever seen. I used to use regular walnut oil, but this is far superior. If you sand to 320 grit, you'll get a very smooth finish without the buildup that polymers cause by masking the wood's feel.
As a hobby, I carve spoons, spatulas, bowls, and other small objects. I've only used this oil on a few spoons so far, but I'm happy with the results. The oil spreads evenly and without a trace of impurities. It's been effective on light-colored or mixed-grain hardwoods. With a clear, even finish that dries quickly, there is no yellowing or color cast in either case. For a food-grade natural wood finish, I combine it with natural beeswax.
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