C2G 02300 IEEE-1284 DB25 Male to Centronics 36 Male Parallel Printer Cable, Beige (6 Feet, 1.82 Meters)
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Mike, did you ever come up with a solution that worked for you? I'm also trying to access some of my old zip disks, but the parallel cable is giving me trouble. Thanks. Bev
This cable should work with your printer, according to my research.
I can't say for sure because I don't have a scale, but they aren't particularly thin. I've purchased at least three other similar cables, all of which have proven to be difficult to connect or loose, and none of which have worked after being removed and replaced. This cable, on the other hand, has served me well and has been used in a variety of applications. As a result, I've connected and disconnected it numerous times with no issues. Even with a couple of splitters added to the various ends of this cable, there was no problem getting enough power. Finally, it's not super heavy duty or anything, but it's a far cry from shady low-grade garbage. I hope this information is useful.
I'm running it on Windows 8 and haven't had any issues. If it works on Windows 8 64 bit, it will most likely work on Windows 7 64 bit as well.
Selected User Reviews For C2G 02300 IEEE-1284 DB25 Male to Centronics 36 Male Parallel Printer Cable, Beige (6 Feet, 1.82 Meters)
This is not a plug-and-play situation. It's time to use your brain. To connect my older HP Laserjet 1100 printer to my newer Win 7 and Win 10 laptops, I purchased this. It was relatively simple to set up on both, but not according to the one-page hard copy instructions that came with it. I had to half-follow the instructions, then use common sense before returning to them. It works fine, but it is not a plug-and-play device. On my Acer Aspire Win 7 laptop, it was much easier to install than on my Toshiba Satellite Win 10. Overall, I think it's good and would recommend it to others. My 1100 printer, which is nineteen years old, is still operational. Why not put it to good use?.
This is not the device for you if you require a USB Parallel Port. br>br>I made the mistake of assuming that because the title stated USB to DB25 Parallel port, I could use it for other devices that connected via Parallel. br>br>In Device Manager (Windows 7) the device does not appear as a Parallel port. Device states are documented in the following way: "These adapters are only capable of supporting a basic Parallel printer. " br>br>"These adapters are only capable of supporting a basic Parallel printer. " Multi-device support is not available with these adapters. devices that perform a specific function All-in-one printing, copying, scanning, and faxing There is only one printer. These adapters are not recognized as a Parallel or LPT port by the computer; instead, they are recognized as USB Printing Support. "br>br>I must have overlooked that detail in my haste to find a true parallel port; don't make the same mistake.
bit, as well as a large number of HP inkjet printers. Here's how you can solve the problem: br>If you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, consider using the words "innovative" and "paraphrase Follow G's instructions to "install" your printer without connecting it to the computer. It might ask you to get a Microsoft driver. Select the appropriate printer driver for the series (e. g. , For the HC722C, select the HP720series driver. Then, from this HP web page, download and install three patches:
[. ]br>Carry on with the C- Install the adapter cable according to G instructions. br>It should now be working properly, and you can even enable spooling and other features. br>I only gave it one star because I wanted people to notice it. Please select "yes, useful" to move this to the top of the page, where it will be seen by more people. It would have remained one star and returned to Amazon if I hadn't discovered the cure. Its performance is now a five-star rating. BTW, I'm hoping that C-Net's tech support is up to par. S eventually figures it out and is able to assist them.
It is well-designed for its intended use. The wires in this splitter are significantly thinner than those in typical power supply cables, which is the first thing you'll notice. The splitter uses 22awg wires instead of the PSU's 18awg. This may appear alarming, but there's a reason for it. br>br>This splitter assumes you're splitting the cable between two devices with similar power requirements. The wire equivalence of two 22 awg wires is just under that of one 18 awg wire; technically, the wires should be 21 awg, but this is an odd size, which is likely why the wires are 22. br>br>There is no hard and fast rule that says using 22 awg wires instead of 18 awg wires will cause a fire; instead, voltage drop, insulation rating, cooling, and length should all be considered. br>br>If the goal was only to get a 0 If the voltage drops by 1 volt, you can run over 4A or around 50 watts through each split connector. This is much tighter than most PSU that spec a drop of up to 5% at 12v and much tighter than most PSU that spec a drop of up to 5% at 12v and much% This also keeps the power dissipation to around 1/10th of a watt per inch of wire, which is less than one of those tiny 1/8w resistors' rating. Simply put, each end of the splitter should be able to run at half the power of the original cable. br>br>Overall, the connector is of good quality, and despite the thinner wires, it does the job if you need an equal split. Otherwise, better options exist that use 18 awg for both ends, allowing you to siphon a small amount of power for one device while allowing the majority to go to another. br>br>Note: If you're looking for a unique way to express yourself, try using the words "creative The wires will be less rigid and centered than the original cable because they are thinner. Making a connection requires more jiggling of the connector. Don't put too much pressure on the connector. Pin damage occurs as a result of this.
This was purchased so that I could connect an old zip drive to my current computer. You can't connect the parallel port end of the cable directly into the device because the connection screws are the same as the device port, so I ended up connecting it to the original zip cable, which acted as an extension cord. This would have been fine if the computer didn't recognize the device as an external drive after hooking everything up.
Isn't "Junk" a good enough word to describe it? I guess it's a good thing I have some spare time today. br>br>I wanted something simple, quick, and easy that didn't rely too heavily on cablemod. I believe I am easier to please than the majority of people in this category, and I am not particularly concerned with my appearance. It only has to function and appear to be clean on the outside. br>br>As a result, it's even more depressing when you're let down after having such low expectations to begin with. br>br>The braided cover is ziptied to the cable and covered in heat shrink. Furthermore, the zip ties aren't quite tight enough, so the braided cover rides up on the cable when you route it, expanding like an accordion and looking ridiculous; it's extremely difficult to connect to your required ports while maintaining a clean appearance. br>br>In an effort to make it look more normal, I managed to damage two Molex pins, with one conductor completely separated from the pin. br>br>At a couple times the price, this makes it more unsightly, fiddly, and potentially damage prone than a simple Molex adapter. br>br>So, I think it's obvious what I think about its value for money, durability, and presentation. br>br>Upgrading to an unsleeved Molex would be a good idea. br>br>My recommendation is to look elsewhere. Pay a few dollars more for a well-constructed Cablemod or similar brand with a proven track record.