Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer 2i Pro Pack – Motorized Dslr Night Sky Tracker Equatorial Mount for Portable Nightscapes, Time-Lapse and Panoramas – Wi-Fi App Camera Control – Long Exposure Imaging

This mount does exactly what it says on the tin. I first used it in Maupin, Oregon, a few weeks ago. I've attached a few photos to show you what this mount can do. As I previously stated, this was my first time, and the first image depicts Andromeda and her two companions. The Milky Way is shown in the second image, with Sagittarius in the lower left and Cygnus in the upper right, and the galactic center in Sagittarius. In Cygnus, a pink patch represents the North American nebula. The images do not contain any star trails. br>br>Equipment used: br>br> br>Equatorial Wedge (Recommended. )br>SkyWatcher Star Adventurer Photo Package This greatly simplifies polar alignment. )br>Counterweight Kit (Recommended, especially if you're working with heavier cameras and lenses. ) Canon 6Dbr>70-Canon 6Dbr>Canon 6Dbr>Canon 6Dbr>Canon 6Dbr>Canon 24-35mm IS USM L lens (for Andromeda at 200mm)br>200mm IS USM L lens (for Andromeda at 200mm)br>200mm IS USM L lens (for Androme 105mm IS USM L lens (at 24mm, for the Milky Way)br>br>Imaging: Each image was taken for 30 seconds at ISO 1600 and at 38 degrees Fahrenheit. I noticed I was getting some star trails after a few minutes, so I re-calibrated the camera. As needed, image sets were aligned to Polaris between them. br>br>Processing & I used the LonelySpeck workflow for image stacking, and I'm still learning how to optimize the images.
[. ]br>br>I've included some images to demonstrate different SkyWatcher configurations. Wide-angle shots are made easier with the ball mount option. br>br>With the SkyWatcher, you don't need expensive camera equipment to take great photos. I do, however, recommend using a camera with manual settings and the ability to shoot raw images. br>br>I used an Xtend-II to help me align the camera with the parts of the sky I wanted to shoot. SightTM Plus II bracket for attaching a reflex site (sold separately) to your camera's flash shoe.
[. ]br>br>I used a Sight Mark Sure Shot Reflex Sight, but any sight capable of attaching to a weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weaver-style weave It should work with the style rail. I still took a few test shots to fine-tune object centering because this setup makes sighting in dark skies much easier than just pointing and hoping for the best. In one photo, my camera has a sight attached to it. I've included a close-up photo of the Xtend- a Sight of the reflex site. br>br>One last point to consider. The polar scope can be used in two ways to align to polaris. Both options are viable options. The product manual describes one method, which is a little more complicated. This should produce precise alignment if done correctly. The alternative method is much more straightforward. You simply place polaris in the correct position on the reticle, with 0 at the top and 6 at the bottom (see image). An iPhone or Android app can be used to determine Polaris' correct position. Although the simple method works, it is prone to misalignment. I took my photos using the simple method, which could be why I had to re-shoot them. align yourself on a regular basis.

Deborah Adams

| Aug 10, 2021

The money spent on this device was well spent. I'll warn you that it's not for the faint of heart, as some setup is required. It's not just a case of plugging in your camera and shooting; you must first ensure that your device is calibrated correctly from the factory. In order to check the calibration, point to a distant object during the day and manually rotate the axis 90 degrees to see if it remains aligned. The manual rotation, I discovered, was the source of the system's play. So I had to do it 5 or 6 times before I realized it was calibrated well enough for my tastes; the reality is that the field rotates too slowly to get to a 90 degree rotation. If you have to calibrate something, you'll need a. Allen wrench with a diameter of 5 mm (included). br>br>When it comes to the tripod, you'll want one that's extremely stable. I had read that before, but had no idea what it meant until I set it up. It isn't so much about the wind as it is about the environment. It's all about how much room your tripod has for movement. Is it possible for the tripod to flex if you apply downward pressure to it? This thing is all about millimeter adjustments. It's a delicate situation. You can mess up your Polaris alignment even when the device is turned on. Any photography tripod, in my opinion, does not meet the criteria. Now, I must admit that my tripod is not particularly stable, but I took great care. Because the legs were mounted at a steep angle, downward pressure from the weight did not result in vertical play. I also bought a leveling mount to go between my tripod and my sky-watching gear. The kit must be flat on the ground. This, in my opinion, is crucial. It would be a nightmare to try to level your tripod with the legs. Despite the fact that I use a DSLR, I purchased the Astro package. I made the right decision because I can easily attach my existing tripod's ball head to the L bracket. It's also easier to align to Polaris because the L bracket has a slot where you can put the LED device that lights up your Polaris scope. Then you won't have to add your camera after the alignment, which will inevitably mess up your setup and result in poor results. So, only purchase the Astro package, in my opinion. br>br>Before aligning to Polaris, make sure your gear is roughly leveled and pointed in the direction of Polaris. Then, using the ballhead, attach your camera to the L bracket, point it in the direction you want it to go, and secure the clutch. You have complete control over where the camera is pointed. It isn't necessary for it to be facing polaris. This device will work regardless of where it is pointed. If this is your first run, a wide angle lens is highly recommended. Even if your alignment isn't perfect, you'll get acceptable results this way. Next, set your iso, aperture, focus, white balance, and shutter speed to something like 30 seconds and take a test shot with a timer. If everything looks good, connect your shutter control cable from your SA to your camera (you'll need to buy this), turn off the timer, switch to bulb mode, level your tripod perfectly, and then do the Polaris alignment. Polaris can be aligned in two different ways. There are two ways to do things: the easy way and the difficult way. Using the simple method, I was able to achieve excellent results: It does, however, necessitate the use of a mobile application. To replicate the layout, I used the Android app Polar finder and set the recticle to the star adventurer setting. It indicates the location of Polaris in your scope. However, use Google sky map to find Polaris. When aligning, a green laser pointer can be used to point to Polaris, then checked through the scope. In your scope, you'll notice a laser. Also, make sure the cross hairs are pointed straight, not at an angle, at 90 degrees. Make sure your hemisphere N or S is set before turning the dial to the star once you're perfectly aligned with a leveled rig. Your shutter will then be controlled by the tracker, which will be set to 140 seconds by default. br>br>The first night, I didn't remember to focus properly. The second night, I captured a stunning image of the Milky Way. The photo was taken with a Canon T5i and a Sigma 10-stop ND filter. F3, 20mm @ 10mm, 800 ISO 5 images at a shutter speed of 140 seconds To remove noise, 20 of these images were stacked together.

Rosalia Perkins

| Jan 16, 2021

except for the POS battery cover and lens cap, which are both cheesy. Even after all these years, it's still an excellent tracker. Almost every aspect of it appeals to me. except for the POS battery cover and lens cap, which are both cheesy. The reticle illuminator is a waste of time as well. Those flaws aside, the tracker is fantastic once you've figured out how to use it. Simply keep an eye on the plastic parts, as they can easily come off without you even realizing it. On my very first outing (using a D750 and a Nikon 80-200mm lens), I captured this image of the Orion nebula. 200 2. 8), with no prior experience with the use of a star tracker. This says a lot about the product, in my opinion.

Allie Garza

| Jan 03, 2022

This device performs flawlessly and according to the manufacturer's specifications. It was incredible to take 400 photos of the Orion nebula and have each one perfectly centered in the frame, with no start trails. Even a 300mm telephoto lens pointed at deep space objects (as seen in the photo) works surprisingly well. br>br>Some suggestions: You'll need the latitude base, which should be adjusted to your latitude - It greatly facilitates polar alignment. With my larger lenses, I also find that the dec bracket and counter weight are useful. You'll also need a sturdy tripod to support the weight of this thing as well as your camera gear. The results aren't as good because my lighter tripod can't keep everything steady enough. Polar alignment takes some practice, but I've gotten to the point where I can do it in two minutes. 3 minutes at the most.

Yousef Pearce

| Jan 03, 2022