RDS MFG INC 11029 Diesel Install Kit
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Because it was created by humans, it has the potential to cause harm. A tank vent or a small opening can both be blocked.
Model 011025 is what you need.
This part is only compatible with vehicles manufactured between 1999 and 2010.
The RDS Diesel Auxiliary Diesel Fuel Tank Install Kit is what you need. There isn't a tank in it.
Selected User Reviews For RDS MFG INC 11029 Diesel Install Kit
This isn't an RDS kit in the traditional sense. For the past five years, I've worked at RDS and built parts for every kit that has come out of the company. This is a low-cost knockoff for which we've received numerous complaints, only to discover that it isn't an RDS transfer kit at all. This seller's entire inventory of kits is a hoax. The hose barb on the Tee adaptor's ROV is frequently missing, and the shutoff valve leaks. Purchase is not recommended. Pay a visit to a reputable retailer, such as Northern Tool.
When your main tank is full, the float valve in the "T" shuts off fuel flow, so make sure the valve is oriented correctly. I strongly advise you to install a 5/16" in-hole. If a contaminant gets into the float valve, it can cause it to stay open and spill fuel all over the place. br>br>This is a much simpler system than the transfer pump setups you've seen. br>br>The hose clamps are too small, as others have pointed out. Buy 2x 2. While you're at it, pick up some 25" stainless steel hose clamps. br>br>UPDATE: br>br> 8/10/2017br>So, as many of us can attest to our aging Government Motors truck's 'quality,' when it's filled, my factory fuel tank leaks out the top. I'm sure the seals are crusty and old, and there's no way I'm dropping the tank to try to fix it. The RDS Diesel gravity feed kit is not to blame for this. My issue is that the brass float valve is placed higher than the tank in the kit. If only I could get the brass float valve to fit beneath the top of my tank. There's a way to make it work! The brass float valve has a 1/2" NPT thread and extends about 3/4 of an inch beyond the threads. So, mount that brass float valve to a fuel tank sump and sideways mount the sump to the factory tank. Pro tip: To avoid hundreds of tiny plastic filings getting into your tank, cut half way through with a hole saw and finish with an xacto knife. You won't be able to seal a cut outside the hole saw depression unless you're patient.
Easy to install, high-quality fuel hose, and a thin-handled aluminum shutoff valve that should suffice. a miniature brass ball- A valve upgrade would be nice. The hose clamps that came with the filler hose were about a half-inch in diameter. They were an inch too small for my Chevy 08 3500HD with a 34 gallon tank; when fully opened, they wouldn't slide onto the fuel hose; when wrapped around the fuel hose, the end of the strap wouldn't reach the screw mechanism. Because I had clamps on hand, installation was a breeze. The hose clamps for the gravity feed line were the correct size, and the picture is a stock photo; no rubber hose pieces were provided, and they were not required for this model year. The filler hose adapter is designed to fit inside a filler hose that already exists. I would recommend and advise others to use hose clamps. This install kit is on the right in the photo. (The return line from the lift pump is connected to the left adapter. ).
I didn't get all of the parts listed in the instructions. Splicing a feed into rubber hose is a simple task for any moron. For $75, I expected this RDS INSTALL KIT to be ready to install, not a re-engineering of someone else's indifference to putting parts in a box. I even emailed the company right after the order was confirmed, requesting that they send the correct larger hose clamps, as this had been mentioned in other comments. All I hear are crickets chirping after months of waiting for a response. Paying good money for parts that aren't even compatible with themselves is a pain in the neck for me as a 15-year commercial tradesman.
First and foremost, I want to express my gratitude to everyone who responded to my query; you were all extremely helpful. It took me less than an hour to install the kit on my 2007 duramax, and it appears that the company addressed the issue of "too small" bands because the ones I received were plenty large. It was a simple installation, and I had enough room to use a hacksaw instead of a box cutter, which saved me time. The price is about average for all of the kits, so it's a good deal. I would recommend this kit. It would be nice if they included a rubber grommet, as you'll need one to keep the fuel line from being cut, but you can get one for a few dollars at any hardware store.
It took about an hour to complete the installation. The most difficult part was cutting the OEM 2" filler tube, which required a sharp razor knife. I installed a clear fuel filter in line in the truck's bed so I could see if it was clogged. I got it for $4 at a local auto parts store. The fuel tube included in the kit is 5/16" in diameter. I'm working with an old tank that I cleaned thoroughly with gallons of white vinegar. The rust in the tank is removed with vinegar. The adaptor's valve sits atop the truck's filler tube. To drill a hole for the tube to go through the truck bed to the valve, you'll need a 5/8" drill. To open up the hole so the fuel hose wouldn't be cut, I used a 1/2" drill and a carbide rotary tool. I refilled the truck's fuel tank as well as the auxilary fuel tank. When I opened the valve, the filler spout did not overflow or leak. To keep diesel fumes out of the canopy, I ran a vent tube down from the tank's top through the truck bed. I considered installing an electric solenoid valve, but I don't believe I require one at this time. When you need to use the fuel, you can simply open the valve on the auxilary tank. I'm pleased with how everything has turned out. It's better than spending $300 or more on a pump when I don't need diesel for anything else.
Clamps are too small to fit the filler hose, which is a common complaint. I'd give the product five stars if the clamp issue that everyone is complaining about could be resolved. Clamps were too small to go around the filler hose and would not even go around it. To get some that would fit, I had to go into town. After receiving so many complaints, you'd think the manufacturer would fix the problem.
The outside diameter of the filler tube on my 2006 Duramax was too large for the 2010 Chevy/GMC" to fit around. There was also no grommet to fit into the hole in the truck bed to protect the hose from the sharp edge. I had to go to the hardware store on my own to get these items. These parts were only about $5, but they were still inconvenient and should have come with the "Kit. " br>br>Apart from that, the product appears to function satisfactorily. I like how the filler tube end has a check valve to prevent overfilling. the factory's tank is being refilled.
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