ARES 70327 | Oxygen Sensor Rethread Tool | Easily Cleans Oxygen Sensor Hole Threads | Works with M12 x 1.25mm Spark Plug Threads
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Unfortunately, this will not be of use to you. There is a 18 mm hole in the middle. The oxygen sensor is designed for spark plugs, not oxygen sensors. They make the oxygen sensors you need, but this is not intended for your use.
Yes, it works well
Those OS sensor joints (holes/ports) which match the thread profile of M18x1 will work in this configuration. According to what I see, the replacement o2 sensor for a gs300 is that size. However, I recommend that you always check the thread profile for a replacement o2 sensor for your car. There may be an M18x1 on it. Some packages will differ from 5 however, some might not. A wrong M18x1 is being used. As an example, 25 would strip the threads in the exhaust, and it would be the same with In a 1, the number 5 was used. It is generally not possible to find O2 sensors that support more than a few
As far as I know, it uses an 02 sensor from Bosch
Selected User Reviews For ARES 70327 | Oxygen Sensor Rethread Tool | Easily Cleans Oxygen Sensor Hole Threads | Works with M12 x 1.25mm Spark Plug Threads
It is a case of this. For my 2005 Mazda Tribute 3, I bought an ARES 1/2" drive 22mm socket for removal of the O2 sensors. Tekton 3/8" drive socket was purchased as backup in addition to the 0 L engine. Due to my breaker bars being 1/2", I really hoped the Ares 1/2" drive socket would fit. When I tried the ARES, I found that there was a bevel around the last 1/8" of the socket that prevented it from seating I started to round the landings of the O2-sensor as a result, even though I was taking extra precaution to make sure the socket remained I was able to break free the O2 sensor even though it had already been damaged by the ARES thanks to the Tekton 3/8" drive socket I had with me. In the attachments I have included pictures of both sockets and the damage to the O2. It is also important to note that the Tekton socket has a low profile, which is a huge As a result of Amazon Prime returning to it, the ARES already has a date for it's return.
The socket worked perfectly as intended for the purpose for which it was designed, the installation of an O2 sensor. This slit will not handle the amount of torque needed to remove a cruddy, rusted old sensor since it is slit on the side. You should not try to do this. I also feel sorry for those who have left- It appears that they lack the knowledge on how to use a product properly when giving star reviews. A perfect socket like this is hard to find.
There is a tremendous value in this tool that is easily overlooked. The O2 sensors can be difficult to work with, especially on older vehicles where corrosion plays a big role. When every time the O2 sensor is replaced (or removed and reused), using this tool is highly effective in preventing cross threads, under or over tightening, etc. Use a ratchet or wrench to get multiple angles and ease of use while replacing the O2 sensor. It is sometimes very useful to be able to use a wrench when space is limited. Despite the fact that the threads are not too sharp, they're less so than you would see in a traditional However, you still have to use caution, since it does not remove metal A drawback of the 3/8 drive section is that it is not There are some internal grooves that keep it from sliding off the ball, but they are not all centered nor do they grip it If the detent ball could be positioned in a similar hole to that used on impact sockets, I would greatly prefer it. A socket of this type should not use an impact, but I prefer strong retention over regular sockets, even though they aren't strictly recommended. Despite having a black oxide type coating, this tool is easily rusted. Make sure that you clean your box and allow it to get a light coating of oil in order However, ASES has told me that the tool does come with a lifetime warranty, although it is a cutting tool in a way. Since the warranty covers defects, you can make this a lifetime tool as long as you prevent rust and therefore rust damage to the threads.
struggled with the first three holes until I was able to make them usable with the other set. After that, we decided to buy something else for the remaining It would have been so handy if I had just bought this from the beginning! As a result, I was able to get the last three holes cleaned and the hitch fully mounted in half the time it would have taken me to just clean the first three. There is a lot of This is an excellent book.
In addition to 7/8" on the side of the tool, a smaller 22mm beside it can also be seen. Since most of them are made in China, they employ metric units. If you have difficulties removing sensors, you can round off the corners with the 7/8 inch. On Toyota models with the recommended Denso sensors, it is especially noticeable. There will be a bit of "opening up" in the slot cut for the heated wire connection if the sensor in tight, which is usually the case. You should immediately remove the oil when the engine is warm and use good penetrating oil. Make sure the threads of the bung hole are chased and don't use anti-seize on them.
It is a very good product. Both types of O2 sensor sockets were purchased to ensure that I could adjust my setup for the various situations I may face. O2 sensors can be removed and installed in different ways depending on the vehicle, which is why you need to have a straight and offset socket. In my experience, this ARES socket worked extremely well for both removal and installation. In comparison, the front O2 sensor released relatively easily, while the back/rear O2 sensor required a little more heat and Thanks to the offset socket on the rear sensor I was able to access my 2011 Subaru Forester sensors fairly easy. Buying both is a good idea for DIYers. The ARES 70094 1/2 indicates a system failure I found that the O2 sensor socket on the inch drive was high quality and durable and did the repair. No matter how much torque I applied, it was barely moving. One nice aspect of this straight socket is that the sensor wires can be placed within it, preventing overheating as well as tangles. The twisting continues. It was better to me to go with I would prefer to purchase the 1/2" drive over the 3/8" drive If you are working in tight spaces, you might need to use the 3/8" version. There are several variations of drivers. The recommended product is listed below.
I would say that it works that is, to the point. mechanic my father hired was installing a new oxygen sensor, but it turned out the sensor wasn't the right one so they repaired the old one with out using antiseize solution or realizing to not over torque the sensor, which they were doing which totally ruined the threads. Can you explain? Well, it's not their car, so it doesn't really matter. It was, however, a bit of a hassle to finish it so I took some time to smooth out the threads, so the new one could be installed. You can also see on video that I didn't use the torch method when threading the threads in. Watch the video below to see how the guy threaded it though. Anyhow, it looks like the sensor is a bit askew at the end of the video. Using antiseize, I threaded in and out a couple of times and was able to thread the new oxygen sensor I am not suggesting this method will work for everyone, I just tried it and it worked. In addition, I would suggest that, if you're reading this before installing a new oxygen sensor, you don't try cranking it in. When it needs being torqued in like Thor, it should be torqued in this way You may have already read this by now, but then again, it might be too.
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