TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive x 7/8 Inch Offset 6-Point Oxygen Sensor Socket | 47749
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This is a 22 mm socket, so that's what it is. You can measure the head of your oxygen sensor, and if it is 22 mm, it will fit. It seems that oxygen sensors are generally standardized in this It was absolutely necessary for me to remove the oxygen sensor on bank one of my 2007 Toyota Sienna with this socket.
In general, all of the O2 sensors measure 22 mm (7/8 inch). The following information is taken from the picture's caption It is common to use a 6 point, 7/8-in. An oxygen sensor that fits in a (22mm) socket works well.".
Since you are only securing two sides of a sensor with a crowfoot wrench, you would have to remove it very firmly. The adaptor had to go from 3/8" to 1/2" and the drive had to be 20" The old sensor must be removed by sliding the new one over the bar. It is possible to cut the wires and use a 7/8" box wrench if you are not using the sensor again.
Although I do not know why it is better, it is undoubtedly a valuable The design of this device makes it likely to be better than others. I love how easy it is to change sensors and how well built it is
Selected User Reviews For TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive x 7/8 Inch Offset 6-Point Oxygen Sensor Socket | 47749
It was just a few days ago that I replaced the oxygen sensor in my 18-year-old. RAV4 from the past. There are some cases where this tool will not be able to remove a sensor that has been in there for a long time. In addition to what others have said, if you try to torque it too hard, the slot will open. Having trouble removing a tight sensor? Here is how you can fix it The first step is to tear the sensor from the base using Vise Grips (or enough so you can do the second step). -A deep 22mm or 7/8" socket and a breaker bar, or ratchet if there is not space to align the break bar with the socket. Hammer on it with a big hammer (small sledge hammer) and pull as hard as you can. I can confirm that mine had all of the sensor threads left in the manifold bung after I removed it. The manifold threads need to be cleaned up. There was a tap hole (M18x1) I had to use. I used a thread chaser on one or two threads, then used cleaner (I think it was 50) to clean them up. Before the thread chaser can start to chase the threads, it needs to have a thread or two. A very handy tool for snugging up a new sensor is this tool.
That's fine. My 2003 Elantra is much happier now that I have this item installed. On the 2004 model, Hyundai fixed the problem with the bad angle of the upper sensor, but before that model, it is I would like to thank the person who mentioned the hose clamp idea. Below is my list of 3 tools that I would purchase. Getting time and money at the same time is more important than getting one or the other. In the case where you value your money over your time, I would "rank" the usefulness as follows. In this post we will present 1 TEKTON 47749 "Stubby" 2 TEKTON 4929 Deep Well with Slot and 3 Bovidix 0681922 Flare Nut Wrench, Metric - Size "FA" The 19"x22-millimeter (or similar) is the least helpful tool for really stuck sensors, but it is great to tighten up once rust is removed. The 47749 is the best for tight spots and to access it with a breaker bar or an impact wrench. The deep well, however, can be used with an impact wrench for full force. In order to remove my upper and lower sensors I had to unscrew the upper and lower sensors. In the upper part of the well, a deep well is best. In terms of lower, 47749 is the best. You just have to take into account the setup on your car. I wish you the best of.
The breaker bar should be used with this product. When you use a ratchet, the O2 sensor tool will be very difficult to remove from, since it was not designed to take a sensor out all the way just to break the old one free and tighten the new one in place. The O2 sensor can be removed by breaking free from the ratchet, removing the ratchet, leaving the tool on and using some leverage from the arm on the tool to spin it out. I recommend spraying some break parts cleaner on the threads of the exhaust and wiping the oil away if you used a penetration oil to help get the old sensor out. Then let it dry for a few minutes so you don't leave any vapor inside the Use copper based antisieze on the new O2 sensor, but do not let it touch the sensor itself, you should only use it on the threads. As you tighten the new sensor, threads will be tightened by hand until they bottom out, then torque until it meets specifications. Then turn 45 degrees if you do not have a torque wrench. If you do not have a torque wrench, use a ratchet/breaker bar until it is so tight that it can no longer turn easily. As a general rule, this is good. Once you have driven 100 miles, you should check again. Step by step, I hope that you will find it helpful. Take care and have fun! Sometimes it is necessary to use a ratchet so that you can get the proper angle on the sensor thus, once you have turned it, you should remove the tool from the ratchet, set it back into position, and then attach the If the tool becomes stuck on the sensor, use a few taps on the tool so that the sensor does not get hit. Repeat as necessary until the sensor can be unthreaded by hand. Taking care not to damage the new sensor when installing it is very important when removing the old one. The last thing is to make sure you disconnect the battery before unplugging the Install the battery after all the components are in place. In the event the check engine light continues to illuminate after starting the vehicle, you may need to take it somewhere so that the codes can be read and In the event that the check engine light comes on again, there is another issue that needs to be addressed.
While it seemed of good quality, it didn't comply with the installation requirements on my 1998 323I BMW E46. Usually I use the regular long connector for precat O2 sensors, but I could have used this one if I desired. Although I bought it for the O2 post-cat sensors, its position and angle prevented it from being used for them. The one I ordered from BAVAUTO was not in stock. There is a low profile for theirs, and the points (Teeth) run the length of the socket, allowing it to be used in multiple angles and even It is only usable one-way with these ones from Tekton as the points are located along the bottom. So I cannot use them on the open side.
On the picture of the BAVAUTO one it looks like it's about the same size as the Tekton one and costs twice as much. While the Tekton probably works in most applications, I cannot make use of it in.
I had a sensor that was really frozen which allowed it to spread. Using this method works ideal as long as your O2 sensor is not rusted or frosted. In the case of rusted-in sensors, heat or replacement of that part of the exhaust might be the best way to remove them. There have been cases where people welded in a new sensor spot inside the old one after leaving the old one stuck inside. To weld the threaded part in, drill a new hole and join it to the threaded part of another vehicle. There was a chance that this tool was going to slip out from under me. While it is tempting to blame the tool, that isn't really the best thing to do. As a result, there is a gap for the wire and so it's susceptible to stretching until a very heavy amount of torque is applied. Other O2 sensors do not work with any of my sockets. When you are really committed to getting it out, there are several ways to make this work for you, including cutting the wire and breaking it off, as well as using an impact socket and an impact gun. (MAP gas is hotter than propane but still may not be hot enough. ) In the end, I managed to get mine off by using a Knipex Pliers wrench with a pipe attached to one handle and by using a torch that my friend had. truck was in the rust belt most of its life, it is well over 20 years old and has been in the state of Minnesota for its entire life.
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