Genuine Ford F4TZ-12K073-C Camshaft Position Sensor
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There is no doubt that I could fit a 2000 7 into it. The answer to 3 is perfect.
My Ford OEM pack that was sent to me is made in China, and I had to return it because it was not even in the OEM pack that came with it. Ford is the best choice when it comes to this
This fits all 7 as it's the same size. I have all 3 power strokes from 1994 to the last one built thanks Roger, this is the one that catches up with the latest models
Crank Positioning Sensor of this kind was manufactured for the vehicle of the late '70s. A 3 or 6 year old and an early 6 year old. There are 0's. Either 7 or 8 should be able to handle it A 3 or a 6 is acceptable. The turbo diesel engine produces zero horsepower. Whether or not IDIs used the same sensor is unclear to me. The one I own is a 97 7 and it is currently in use.
Selected User Reviews For Genuine Ford F4TZ-12K073-C Camshaft Position Sensor
The Ford F250 7-cylinder engine was built in 2002. With 207k miles on it, this 3L diesel crew cab is in good shape The Amazon Garage checker states that this part does not fit this truck, but it has been in for 5 months now and is working fine)
*br >Engine seems to run smoother despite the incorrect fitment claim. Although the old one wasn't too bad, I store it in my glove box as a backup, as suggested in Countless forums. So far, no problems. The poorly maintained 207,000 mile vehicle I bought just a few months ago I am maintaining diesel by replacing all of its parts as it goes. I used an 18" pry bar to gently rock the tool back and forth until I started seeing the part come loose from beneath the passenger side of the engine. I accessed the part from under the passenger side of the engine. I had to be gentle with the new one during this process because the metal retainer clip on the old one came off. Do not forget to oil the new oil pan Put the ring on gently before inserting. There is a retaining bolt in the center that appears to be 10MM in diameter. You should use a deep well socket and an extension of 3". I remind you Before you can loosen the bolt and remove the sensor, you must first disconnect the sensor wire.
A turbo diesel with three cylinders. Currently replacing The 12K073 series The other version (F4TZ-8040) comes in this dark blue and purple coloration The 12K073 series There has been an announcement that Ford and others say it will work on the 94-97 models The seven models are represented by 96 models. Some forums and resellers suggest that this will work for 94 through 03, although many forums and resellers believe it will not. Having tried it on my 2002 Excursion, I can assure you that it worked and that it is idling better now. I will post a follow-up if for any reason this thing does not work as expected.
After reading several reviews and forums in an attempt to determine what the issue is, I decided to try this. The bell rings! Additionally, my truck runs continuously without stopping, and it appears to perform better than ever. The acceleration is better, idling is smoother, and the gas mileage is being tested at the moment. A second post will be made in the future if it actually works out. If this one fails in the future or if I run into anyone with the same problem, I am buying a second one just to keep in the truck box.
I was very pleased with the product. There were a few minor issues. The CPS started to fail slowly at first, and the truck would shut down if the horn was sounded. As time passed, the truck idled slightly off every 5 seconds and the tachometer ran ever so slightly, but not very noticeable, and then as you progressed it became harder to start the truck. I assumed this was due to the temperature being about 40 degrees. You may want to change your cellular plan if you have these symptoms. One day my cellular plan started shutting off repeatedly without even hitting the horns, I barely made it to my house. I noticed that my truck ran smoother after changing the CPS and started up instantly without warming the glow plugs in cold weather. I was most impressed with how it accelerated from a stop after changing the CPS. In the past, my truck would buck before taking off, and now it is much smoother. The majority of people claim you need a 10mm wrench to remove the old CPS, but my truck had a 1/2in bolt. I would suppose the original owner had the CPS changed under warranty by Ford so maybe it had the second generation gray CPS? I wish you good luck, it isn't hard to change but it is tight and wear a pair of.
I searched and read for a while I decided to give the NAPA Echlin one a try as many people loved them and thought they were the best (plus I worked for NAPA). However, it ended up having issues on my system. Although I did not suffer from the wiper/stall issue, I did encounter random momentary cutouts on occasion when it was cold. These usually resolved themselves when it was warm. When I got tired of it, I decided to replace it with a Ford purple sensor from the factory recommended by the manufacturer. Sure enough, it fixed it and continues to perform well. It is a bit on the expensive side, but I think it will last long enough that I need not worry about it.
It is highly recommended that if you had originally opted for the gray CPS from the first Ford recall, that you replace it with the dark-gray one instead This model is in blue. In the 7 there was an original CPS. There was a black 3L. There was no better version than this black one. In the end, however, every one of them failed. If these components fail, the truck engine shuts down and won't start. As most of these trucks got the gray recall CPS under the recall, it's not unusual to see the gray recall certificate. A gray CPS is a reliable replacement (free from the dealer). On the other hand, the engine runs much rougher with the gray CPS than with the black CPS. On the internet can be found sites showing scan read-outs A comparison between the two CPSs is made. The 12K073 series Neither me nor my neighbor has more than seven. Our gray recall CPSs were replaced by these dark blue/black improved ones after we replaced our 3L Powerstroke units and we both noticed a big difference in idle and smoothness of the engine. **IMPORTANT** Spray penetrating oil on the head of the bolt before you attempt to remove the old CPS. DO NOT attempt to remove it until the oil has dried. They tend to seize into the block of the engine. break off the head of the bolt or strip the head off, you will have to remove your front grill and radiator and tap your block to install a new bolt. ONLY use a 6 mm bolt. Probably will need to use a breaker bar as well as a point hex driver to remove the bolt. You need to take precautions. INSERT A BOLT HEAD BUT DO NOT STRIP IT!.
As a 99 7 owner, I have the following information. A total of three F250s. The CPS for this isn't supposed to be right My trust in mechanics and Ford is quite strained as I have been through hell for years. When I tried to install the last one, I kept receiving CPS codes. As far as I know, this is the 5th one I've bought, and I've spent so much time and money on it. The only reason I tried it was desperation -- other reviews led me to believe it would work. I've had my truck running right for the first time in years! It is impossible to tell how long it will last, but it does not matter. I will buy a spare at this price. My problem has not been resolved as of yet, so I'm reporting back later. The engine now runs better than ever when it is warm, but there is still an occasional glitch A problem with humidity in the wiring seems likely.
It is essential to have a 3L Powerstroke. It has been my 2002 Super Duty 7 ever since I purchased it. These symptoms always start the same, dying at idle then while driving. I have used this sensor on this engine for 15 years and it is its kryptonite. A 10mm socket can be used to replace it with 20 minutes of free time. There are tons of videos on youtube on how to do it, so I will not go into that here. It is always a good idea to have a spare and to always use OEM MotorCraft products.
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