Outlaw Racing High-Pressure Temperature Gauge Radiator Cap 1.8 Real-Time Temp Monitoring- Prevent Motorcycle/ATV Leaks- Compatible with Honda Suzuki Yamaha Kawasaki
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I'm almost certain it won't, but it does fit my yz450f dirt bike.
Unfortunately, you will not be able to use it. br>Boss Powersports, thank you.br>
I'm not sure if the 1000rr's OEM caps are the same as the majority of Japanese caps. With the basic OEM cap, this one will fit most bikes. Suzuki SV 650, in my case.
On motorcycle radiators, it will fit standard-size necks. You should be fine unless your 99 R1 has a unique radiator. It was a perfect fit for my Kawasaki Klr 650 from 2004. It's impossible to say for sure. I found a couple of websites that sell it, but not for the same price as Amazon, and their websites state that it "fits most Japanese models." I'm willing to bet it does. But, in the end, the decision is yours. If not, Amazon's return policy is excellent. It's impossible to fail.
Selected User Reviews For Outlaw Racing High-Pressure Temperature Gauge Radiator Cap 1.8 Real-Time Temp Monitoring- Prevent Motorcycle/ATV Leaks- Compatible with Honda Suzuki Yamaha Kawasaki
I didn't read all of the reviews until after I purchased it, but I figured it was worth a shot. I installed it on my 2007 Yamaha WR450 Supermoto, and it began dumping coolant out of the overflow within 5 seconds of starting the bike. I initially assumed it was a problem with my bike, but I switched back to my original cap, which worked perfectly. I decided to give it another shot because I really wanted a temperature gauge for my bike because I ride my supermoto hard and Texas isn't exactly known for its "cool climate," so I was excited to be able to keep an eye on the temperature, but it started leaking fluid again, just like the last time. When I returned to the OEM cap, it had stopped working, so I simply tossed it back into the box and realized I had wasted money. It appears that a number of other people had the same problem. I sent the seller a message, but I haven't heard back in weeks, so I figured that if I'm screwed, at the very least I can help someone else avoid making the same mistake.
I worked for the first one for two summers, after which the needle began to spin erratically. As a result, I purchased a new one. It began spinning as soon as it was taken out of the box. My son's bike then began to leak and would not maintain pressure. Yes, the bike is in good working order. Replace the factory cap and there is no longer any leak. I'm going to give the rocky mountain tusk caps a shot to see if they work better.
I put it on my 450 and rode it once and it was just puking fluid out the radiator over flow. I went to a tech and he said he thought it was a bad head gasket. Mind you, I've been chasing this issue since I bought this product. I put new head gasket in, had the head and cylinder checked for spec perfect surface, put it.
On my 2014 crf250l, I installed this. Aside from an overheat warning, there is no temperature gauge on this bike. Now I can keep an eye on my temperatures, and what I like even more is that as soon as the reading goes into the red, my bike's cooling fan kicks in, as if this cap was made for it.
On my Yamaha yz250f, I replaced the stock cap. I like that it has a slightly higher relief temperature than stock, because my bike heats up quickly and begins to drip at idle. It's convenient to be able to see how close I am to the relief opening point. I also use the gauge to determine how warm my bike is so that I can check the oil level and disengage the choke. It's been worn a few times and is still in good condition. My purchase went well.
With one exception, this radiator cap arrived exactly as described and pictured. On the scale, there is a color gradient that aids in determining whether or not the engine is operating within a safe temperature range (a bonus). In the image below, you can see what I'm talking about. It looks fantastic on my 2015 Yamaha WR450f and is simple to read while riding. I checked its accuracy with an infrared thermometer (not the most accurate method) pointed at various parts of the radiator and hoses, and it appears to be within 10 degrees or less on a consistent basis.
One thing to keep in mind is that it won't work unless your radiator is completely full of fluid. The read will be incorrect (read cooler than it actually is) if your fluid level is lower than the probe in the cap.
Even when the radiator became unbearably hot to touch, the needle remained immovable. There was also a lot of leek from the overflow. Angry with me.
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