Spraymax 3680061 2K Clear
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Everything said on this site isn't incorrect, but it's a little unnecessary. If you're going to use a rattle can for your base coat, make sure it's a FLAT color to avoid all the steps and days of drying time. Flat, not semi-gloss or satin. It will be very glossy once you clear it, but gloss paint is almost like a plastic coating, which is why everyone has such a hard time with it. If you look at a solid sheet from a close distance, it looks like a sponge. The clear will be repelled by the gloss, while the flat will absorb it. Spray one tack coat of your color, a simple mist. Allow 15 minutes for drying before applying another med wet coat, flashing 15 minutes before applying another med wet coat and allowing 30 minutes for drying before applying the clear but only a light tack coat. Allow 20 minutes for drying, then apply a medium wet coat and wait 20 minutes before applying your wet coat to achieve the desired finish. Don't worry about dust or runs because you can cut and buff this clear to remove them once it has set. Of course, avoid this if at all possible, but it's not a major issue if it does occur. I'm referring to the dirt or clear water. Before you top coat a base coat for automotive use, it's flat, so ya. I've used this method more times than I can remember, and it's fantastic!
It's urethane clearcoat with a 2K rating. It is compatible with enamels if applied within 1 hour of the enamel top coat's application or after it has fully cured, which can take weeks or months. It will wrinkle if you apply clear coat to enamel that hasn't fully cured. I've always sprayed 2k urethane clear coat within 30-45 minutes of painting. After applying the final top coat, wait 40 minutes. Wrinkling was never a problem for me.
The stuff lasts about 48 hours, which is plenty of time to apply several coats.
I used this on two guitars and purchased clear coat that was separated from the body of the guitar. Other than that, everything is fine. But I'm not sure if it was my fault.
Selected User Reviews For Spraymax 3680061 2K Clear
br> N/Abr>br>From a spray paint rattle can, this comes the closest to professional grade clear coat. Curb rash on a 2014 VW Passat Alloy Rim was repaired using this product. After you've given the Dupli-Scanner a chance to do its thing, After allowing 30 minutes for the color Reflex Silver Metallic to dry, three coats of 2K High Gloss Clear coat were applied for a glossy finish. The end result was fantastic. br>br>This product will expire 48 hours after activation, so plan ahead if you want to use it for multiple projects. I had a lot of paint left over from repairing one rim, so I restored my headlights the next day with the rest of the 2K Clear. This stuff worked like magic once morebr>br>*Thank you for taking the time to read this. Please mark this as "helpful" if you found it useful.
When used to refinish a car's headlights or taillights, it's quite impressive. It was well worth the money. I didn't use any grit higher than 1500 when sanding. If I notice any yellowing over time, I'll post an update.
It is necessary to prepare. Before I used this product, I read all of the reviews and watched every DIY video that had been posted about it. I'm no expert, but I've used shake ball spray paint and an electric paint sprayer on a few doors and valences around the house, so I know that preparation, temperature, wind, spray nozzle distance, and an even hand sweep are all important factors in getting good results with spray paint. br>For this clearcoat product, my goal was to match the factory clearcoat finish on my 15-year-old car, and I'm happy to report that I succeeded! br>My 4runner's bumper is made up of three sections, one of which is rusted. I hoped to repair the heavily rusted section, but it was too pitted, so I purchased a primed aftermarket bumper section and proceeded from there. The bumper section measures approximately 24" x 12" in surface area. I used two Dupli-color spray cans. 3/4 of a can of USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat and the color. I used wires at chest height to suspend the bumper section on one side of the garage door track, as close to the center of the garage as possible, as I've done before with similar size spray paint projects. br>I'm not going to repeat what others have said, so I'll just say something that surprised me: br>Dupli- br>Dupli- br>Dupli- b The color did leave some light orange peel, but I read that this is normal for standard factory auto paint, so I just lightly sanded it before applying the clearcoat. This clearcoat is unlike anything else I've ever used! When using it, I would say even when using it outdoors, a good air mask is a must. This clearcoat also left a bonded textured film on EVERY surface in the garage due to overspray and application mist! Everything, including the lawnmower, hand tools, produce on shelves, trash cans, hoses, and even the front door knob! I've had 12-years of experience with spaying. Only the garage floor was affected by the overspray, which was always swept up as dust afterward. 14 cans of other paints and lacquers with only the garage floor being effected by the overspray and that was always swept up as dust afterward. This is not the case! If I were to use it again, I would buy a used tent and spray it inside because even outside in the yard, there would be issues, such as flying bugs!br>Also, once it gets on your part (or anything it touches), it bonds to the surface (hence a good air mask). Removing it, whether wet or dry, will be extremely difficult, so proceed with caution. br>It takes a long time to fully cure. It's been about a month, and the finish is still as hard as the original (not that it takes a month to cure, but give it a few days to fully cure). br>I'm very pleased with the product and would use it again!.
The can is extremely weak, posing a hazard to users and/or anything stored near the product. br>br>Please note that I have not had the opportunity to test the product after it has been applied. The spray can tipped over while I was moving a box on the same shelf. br>br>What happened with my purchase was that I had stored the can on a shelf in my temperature controlled work area (can was never exposed to anything outside of comfortable room temp). br>br> It didn't fall off the shelf; instead, it tipped from sitting on its bottom to lying on its side on a soft pine shelf. br>In an instant, the can side ruptured, ejecting its pressurized contents all over the surrounding area. Before I could find a box to toss the leaking can into, I soaked the shelf, everything on it, everything on the shelf below it, and a laptop computer sitting on the bench beneath the shelves in water. The fumes were unbearable, and cleaning the contaminated items was even more difficult. br>br>After the fact, examination revealed the can sides to be extremely thin (just slightly thicker than modern flimsy soda can gauge). br>br>Given this experience, even if the paint product is good, I would advise buyers to keep the can wrapped in plastic, preferably in a cardboard box, and away from anything valuable until ready to use.
The results are satisfactory, but the cost is prohibitive. These are better for those who haven't used an air-conditioning system before. spray gun with an understanding of the proper mixing ratio br>br>I ended up being rattled. My entire car (it's a 20-year-old) is being canned. It was an old daily and didn't require a 4k repaint). I didn't have a lot of daytime, so being able to spray the car without having to use an air compressor at 11 p. m. was a plus. br>br>In order to complete my mini-size I almost used three cases (yeah, that's a lot, and yes, it would have been much cheaper to just use an air-brush). SUV with three coats of clear coat (you'll want to do at least three coats) (sprayer). However, I am very pleased with the outcome. br>br>There is a slight learning curve when it comes to rattle- When it comes to canning, human error can easily turn a high-quality product into garbage if it isn't sprayed at the proper distance, shaken long enough, stroked correctly, or exposed to the right temperature. Because these cans are expensive, I would buy some inexpensive spray cans and practice first. I only got about four runs out of the entire car, so I had to go back and stand/buff it. out. I didn't have much orange peel in my possession. br>br>Out of the three cases, I had two cans that were defective in the sense that they leaked a little on the bottom after being opened. And about three of the nozzles didn't spray evenly or dripped, so I had to replace it with a different can or reuse one from before.
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