Microsoft Xbox 360 Wired Controller for Windows & Xbox 360 Console
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The more Dorito dust you smear all over this thing, especially around the analog sticks, the better at Call of Duty you'll become. Also, only the Gamer Fuel variety of Mountain Dew should be used to rinse it off.
"Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows" was recently added to my shopping cart. Amazon sells the "Xbox 360 Console" directly. It included a USB receiver as well as two AA Duracell batteries. br>If the item's name includes the words "for Windows," it will include a receiver; otherwise, it will not. br>I'm not sure if this is the case for specific individuals in this case, but Amazon has been known to have a mix of counterfeit stock for certain items (e.g., books). If you ordered one with this label directly from Amazon and it did not come with a receiver and/or the packaging looks different from the customer pictures that show a usb receiver batteries manual, etc. (Red box with grey plastic packaging on the inside), then Amazon will issue a refund or replacement. Yes, a receiver is required to use this controller wirelessly with a PC, as stated in the original question.
It does not work or work well with DirectInput (older, legacy, pre-Visual Basic versions). Only works with XInput games (as of 2006). All PC games used the DirectInput API standard for game controllers prior to 2006. Then, in 2005, Microsoft released the XInput API for the Xbox 360, requiring Windows to follow suit and adopt the new Xbox 360 standard; however, the transition for Windows has been slow and gradual: DirectInput was still used in some Windows games in 2013, (e.g. The Xbox 360 controllers do not have built-in functionality to work with DirectInput games, such as BioShock Infinite.) The controllers may occasionally function, but only in a limited capacity: The controls are inconsistent, only partially functional, and/or either too sensitive or insensitive.br>I discovered the DirectInput vs. Only after I tried to play BioWare's Jade Empire: Special Edition on the PC with an Xbox 360 Controller did I run into an XInput problem. DirectInput was implemented by Jade Empire. Only a part of the controller worked: My game character couldn't stand still because the left joystick (which controls movement) moved by itself. D-pad (to control camera view) and right joystick pad (in terms of abilities) were non-existent. it is useful To find a solution, I went online and learned about the various DirectInput and XInput API standards. That's when I discovered a long list of PC games that don't work or don't work well with the Xbox 360 controller, mostly older titles. The solutions I found were either extremely technical and difficult to implement, or they came at an extra cost (e.g., , investing in a $10 gamepad emulation or profiler app; None of the free ones are up to par - I tried; ) and/or was inconvenient to use (e.g., e.g., e.g., e.g., e. , I had to unplug and replug the controller connection every time I reloaded Jade Empire in order for the gamepad profiler to work again. They're simply inconvenient. br>The issue with the Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller for Windows, which none of the other reviewers/fanboys have mentioned, is that it lacks a built-in DirectInput function. It may function, but it is far from ideal. The Logitech F310, for example, has a physical switch that allows you to choose between the "D" (DirectInput) and "X" (XInput) input methods. The switch should be set to "X" most of the time, but if you come across a DirectInput game, simply switch to "D." That switch is not present on the Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller. Microsoft requires developers and users to follow the following guidelines: Instead of providing a real solution, Microsoft would tell you to "just don't play that game" instead of telling you to stop using DirectInput and start using XInput. (This is the response other people received when they called Microsoft for help with the DirectInput problem.) )br>If you're certain you'll never touch an old, pre-owned vehicle, If you have a 2006 game that would benefit from a gamepad, or if you come across one of the few new games that still use the old API standard, this controller could be useful. However, if you do come across a game that uses DirectInput, you will be frustrated and inconvenienced.
Selected User Reviews For Microsoft Xbox 360 Wired Controller for Windows & Xbox 360 Console
This is one of the best PC controllers available, especially for the price (it's simple to disassemble for cleaning or replace parts if they break). br>br>I prefer the wired controller to the wireless (as I do with all of my PC peripherals), because I don't have to worry about batteries/recharging, a weak or delayed signal, a lower price, and a cord that's long enough at 10 feet. Unlike the wireless version, it uses standard Phillips screws rather than torx security screws. br>br>I just bought a new Xbox 360 controller to replace my original 12 year old one (yes, it lasted that long). Except for the left analog, which has recently begun to wear out (drifting issues), everything still works like new. I placed an order for a new set of analog sensors. $3 thumb sticks (ebay) Prepare to restore it (soldering is required). br>br>I strongly suggest that the D- be changed. pad, because it's already a disaster. It's all mushy and squishy. un- It's fine for games that only use it for menu options, but it's terrible for fighting games and other games that require precise controls. br>br> A simple fix is to disassemble the controller (standard Phillips screws are used), cut a plastic circle from a peanuts tin lid or a principles can lid, and poke a hole in the center. Then reassemble it by placing it under the rubber button membrane pad. done. I used photos of my old controller to demonstrate because I didn't want to disassemble the new one. Once you've completed this, it'll work a lot better. Everything else about this controller is fantastic; it's a rock-solid piece of equipment. The controller is responsive and has a high-quality feel to it. My previous one, as I previously stated, lasted 12 years before experiencing any problems.
I just got the controller today, and I'm not happy with it. The left analog stick is squeaky to the point of being irritating. It's almost comical. I've owned a lot of OEM 360 controllers in the past, and I've never heard of this issue before. As far as I can tell, the controller works normally, but it is nearly impossible to use. EDIT: br>br> I've only used this controller for a week and now have no choice but to return it. The squeaking continued, and both the left trigger and bumper became stuck. Is this a Microsoft-branded controller at all? EDIT(2): br>br> In less than two days, a replacement was delivered. Everything is in order. Thanks to Amazon, I am completely satisfied.
Because this is OEM, I wasn't just hoping for a good product; I was expecting it. However, despite the fact that the product looked good, it did not work well on a computer. Both joysticks had a lot of use and didn't return to their original positions on their own. It's not a major issue. Most games didn't register movement if it was close enough to the center. My main concern is the alignment of the left joystick. It's as if both axes (X and Y) have been shifted to the right by several degrees. My character runs a little to the right when I push the joystick perfectly forward. In other words, if I move the joystick to 12 o'clock, the computer will register the joystick at around 2 o'clock. When I pull backwards on it, the character moves to the left (registering 8 instead of 6 o'clock). Calibrating it made no difference, and Microsoft's XBox Accessories App didn't recognize it as a controller at all. The visual representation of the joystick can be seen in the Windows calibration, and it was always off. It registered right and down when I pushed right, and left and up when I pressed left. It goes without saying that trying to play games like this was a waste of time. Maybe the joystick would be usable if I wanted to play games with the entire controller tilted left, but this controller was pretty much useless right out of the box, despite trying different drivers, USB ports, and so on. As a result, I gave it back. And, despite the countless negative things I've heard about the XBox One controller (one of the reasons I got this one instead), I don't think I'll be buying another Microsoft product anytime soon. Fortunately, I seem to be one of the few people who has had a bad experience with this controller, but it's made me wary enough to look for a replacement elsewhere.
You cannot go wrong with this controller. I've now purchased my second receiver/controller. THE RECEIVER, ON THE OTHER HAND, IS AWFUL. It's a success. br>br> And it might work for a long time; mine lasted about a year before giving up. So, being the tech nerd that I am, I cracked it open and began poking around with my tools. The issue was a tiny fuse called F1 that was smaller than most fruit flies. The tiniest bit of heat can apparently cause the fuse to blow, killing the entire board; and by "tiniest bit of heat," I mean set this thing on anything remotely warm (like the warmth you get from a laptop running) and you risk blowing the fuse. Because the fuse is board mounted, you can't replace it without first finding the tiniest fuse available and re-wiring the circuit. it's being soldered on You can use solder to bypass the fuse, but who knows what it will do in the long run. (I'm guessing it has something to do with fire or power surges. ) ***According to most sources, this is a KNOWN problem, and the fuse blows before it should. So store it somewhere cool. Do not place it near a computer, an amplifier, or even a warm cup of cocoa, or you will need to replace it. **
br>Apart from that, this device is incredible! Thank you for a year of relaxing and headache-free living. PC gaming is available for free. br>br>Recent changes: br>br> I bypassed the fuse with solder and gave it to my roommate to test (insert evil laughter here), and it has worked flawlessly for the past year or so. There were no issues communicating with the controllers, no electrical fires, and so on.
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