Simer Pump Submersible Sewage Pump 1/2HP #FPSE3601A
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A 120v ac power source is unmistakable. The answer is no.
Because the warranty isn't listed, you'll need to contact the company for more information. Although the warranty was not required, water leaks into the sealed motor compartment are the most common cause of failure. The rubber seals at the cord entry are usually harmed by a chemical attack. By avoiding bleach and other harsh chemicals that degrade rubber, you can extend its life. Coat the rubber and seals with a water-resistant silicon or Teflon lubricant grease to help keep the chemicals away from the gaskets and seals. Changes in water level should not sway or fatigue the cord seal, so keep the cords loose but secure. Best wishes to you.
Sorry, I'm not familiar with a piggyback tether float, but it has a float attached to the unit in the shape of an arm that sticks out and floats up with the water level around it. For the unit to float up, you'll need more space around it. I've had it for a few months and have had no issues with it.
Yes, it is possible. I had a 26-year relationship with the first one.
Selected User Reviews For Simer Pump Submersible Sewage Pump 1/2HP #FPSE3601A
The cost of replacing my sewage ejection pump was estimated to be $1700. I did some research and found this direct replacement (the original lasted nearly 20 years), and I was able to complete the job for less than $300. It's not the most pleasurable job, but most DIYers can handle it.
The old pump lasted 25 years, and when I finally cleaned the sump pit, the 1" of scum that I removed from the old pump *might* have contributed to its seal failure. I bought this one in the hopes that it would be just as good; the model is identical. It will almost certainly outlive the house. br>br>.
It performs admirably and is significantly quieter than the previous model.
My last one had a 12-year warranty, so as long as you don't throw MaxiPads or baby wipes at it, you should be fine.
exceptional building.
A seal, most likely the motor shaft seal, failed, allowing water to completely fill the motor cavity, resulting in an electrical short and tripping the breaker. The lift ring was hidden beneath a thick layer of black crude. Because the cast iron had eroded to the point where the lift ring could simply pull through when exposed, the ring broke away from the pump. Despite the corrosion on the upper surface, the impeller and pump housing were in good condition. Water had gotten into the pump through the electrical plug, but it was most likely from the inside when the motor housing flooded. The level switch on the dongle was still fully functional, so it was saved as a spare. If you're looking for a reliable sewage pump, this one should suffice. The threaded connection's upper lip is approximately 6 inches high. It stands 5" off the ground and has a 2" FPT. The pump is a little more than $300, but it is well worth the money. To allow the float switch to function properly, keep the cord and other items away from it. I've designed numerous water systems using pumps from a variety of manufacturers, and I've always preferred Flotec (Sta-Flo). Best of luck with your choice of (rite) pumps as a dependable and cost-effective option.
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