Liberty Pumps P372LE51 Sewage Pump System, 1/2HP, 115V, 2" discharge, 21"x30" basin
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At 15 feet of head, 2" pipe, and a 225-foot run, it works great for me.
The basin comes with an extension kit. I don't think it's a good idea to bring the entire system down to grade level. It's designed to hold a maximum of 2" pipe. This pump is capable of pumping up to 4 inches of pipe.
I've been using 40 for two years and it's been fine.
Yes, it's for basements. It has a 3 inch input and a 1/2 horsepower motor that can easily pump up to an existing sewer line.
Selected User Reviews For Liberty Pumps P372LE51 Sewage Pump System, 1/2HP, 115V, 2" discharge, 21"x30" basin
br>br> The pump and basin are already put together. Isn't it fantastic? Unless the pump creates holes in the bottom of the basin, which it has done twice now and is difficult to notice, simply remove the pump from the basin before installing it and inspect the rings where the pump sits for holes. When you get the tank and pump, this will become clearer. Simply use jb weld to fill the holes and allow them to cure. This is undoubtedly true in the shipping industry. It's quite simple to overlook! br>br>Do not attempt this if you are not a plumber or have no knowledge of plumbing. It can handle both turds and toilet paper without the use of a grinder. We also purchased signs stating that toilet paper should only be used in toilets. br>br>Ask Amazon for the check valve and on/off switch. Get the alarm going as well. Don't limit yourself to buying them in your neighborhood. Trust me. The check valve has a specific sprint pressure, and both of these components use compression fittings, allowing you to replace them without having to replace the entire system. That was a huge relief because we had to remove a check valve and I had forgotten I had the union ring one. We couldn't fit an on/off switch on that installation, so when we had to replace the pump, the check valve unscrewed on one side, allowing 70 gallons of sewer to back up into the line, and we all just smiled. br>br>Keep in mind that you'll have to do the math on your head for this, and you'll have to do it correctly. I didn't factor in the total amount of water in the line when we had to upgrade to a new pump, and after measuring the 2 inch pipe and wheels, I realized I needed this to push 70 gallons of water uphill before it went downhill again. The 4/10 horsepower pump that came with it worked fine for most of our other jobs, but I needed to get the 1 horsepower pump, which is 2. It's 5 times stronger and includes a grinder. It only took a second to replace the pump, and we kept the old one as a backup for the other two basins we have.
This ejector pit appeals to me in general. My only gripe is that the top does not seal properly. To test it, I filled it to the brim with water, which simply poured out the lid. I removed the lid and examined it closely, discovering that the ridge of the basin where the lid seals was very wavy, leaving gaps where the lid seals to the basin, even when the bolts were torqued to the manual's specifications. I decided to use RTV on the seal and will test it again soon. If that doesn't work, I'll have to use silicon around the lib's perimeter, which will be difficult to remove when the pump needs to be replaced.
I like everything about this sewage pump except the fact that it poked a hole in the bottom of the basin when it was shipped, which I didn't realize until after I installed it.
[Something needs to be done about the shipping problem. ] ] I was concerned that it would or had already worked its way outside. Just in case, I puttied it up with epoxy putty. It held water for about a week after I filled it up before installing it. To test it out in the driveway, I put the pump in with some trial PVC standoff elbows. OMG, it shot about 40 feet with 2" pvc and drained the basin in under a minute. When installing, make sure to leave enough space around the sides for fitting and backfilling. The "quiet check valve" 2" comes highly recommended by me. Isn't it the bcv400 liberty? That thing makes a lot of noise.
It's fine; just make sure you install it properly. To reduce the time it took for the tank float ball to turn on and empty, we had to lower the setting. br>Also, make sure you leave enough space around it if you need to adjust or repair it, as this unit is typically installed just below ground with the top above ground.
It's a septic tank, after all, so it'll be bad. Now that the dad joke is out of the way, let's move on to the next item on the agenda. It's well-designed for a professional plumber, but it's also geared toward the home gamer. Also. NY Direct, the company from which I purchased, provides the kind of customer service that your grandparents used to brag about. This is fantastic! But, hopefully, your delivery guy is aware of this aspect and you will never have to deal with it.
Basin, pump, and all other internal components are already in place. Customer service at Liberty is outstanding. Arrived on time and in good condition. The installation at the site necessitates a large enough excavation to ensure a precise connection to the house's gravity line. If you have a receptacle nearby, wiring makes it as simple as plugging in a toaster. Discharge and venting are clearly illustrated, and if you're familiar with PVC pipe and fittings, they're simple to install: just dig and fill!.
Easy access to the internal pump and float thanks to the prepackaged design.
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