ABS Cast Iron Flange Replacement, 4-Inch (3)

In the end, I was able to make it fit my 50+ year old, 4 inch Cast Iron drain pipe. However, to do so, I had to scrape the inside surface of the pipe quite a bit. As the drain pipe corroded, it developed a hard, solid, bumpy buildup of rust and rusty deposits. The build up is NOT going to fit without it being removed. A 3-inch pen was the best choice for me Five-eighths of an inch I eventually got my metal hole saw to fit, but it took me a lot of effort, and I am sure I destroyed my $18 Hole Saw because it did not fit perfectly the first time. There is something to be said for the fact that the seal is on the inside The internal surface of this fitting is much more appealing than the outside surface of the Oatey 42255 (described below), and I am okay with the smaller opening of this fitting (the opening on the toilet is smaller, so I figured it was fine). I recommend that you factor in the fact that if you plan on using this flange and you have an old cast iron drain, you may have to significantly clean out the pipe's inside diameter to ensure that it fits. In this case, I would recommend giving it a try and if it does not fit, seeking other options if you have difficulty cleaning the interior. You can install the option by clicking here. I may be able to use Oatey 42255 (I didn't test it), which would seem to be easier, however, I was concerned that the pipe was below the tile (about 12 inches), and I have read it only works when the pipe is level with the Because of this I was worried that the gasket may not be properly sealed. In the end I could not comment on the Oatey 42255 because I persevered with this flange. Furthermore, I am not able to speak to the fit of the plastic drains with this flange. There's no doubt that it would fit inside (the plastic specification for containers 998"), but possibly not enough for the gasket Technical types should refer to the following During my measurements, I found that the diameter of the flange of this fitting was I am 7". Specifically, a 3" Cast Iron internal diameter would be specified for a 4" Cast Iron. There are 94 digits in 0, so the binary value "should" be There is a clearance of 24". I suppose my Cast Iron is different from yours (old), or the build-up was that significant, but I had a lot of trouble getting it to fit my slot. This is to let you know in case you are looking at this flange if you are looking for a replacement.

Emerson Lehman

| Dec 17, 2020

This excrement is a bit There is only as much plastic in the seal as a rubber band. The tightening of the nuts on the bottom is reliant on the plastic. The torque rate does not tell you how much to tighten, I expected a snug fit with the 'seal' to signal that it was It is dangerous to tighten too much since the seal will pop out of the grooves and you will have to strip the plastic around the nuts to get it out. As I started the installation, I noticed that the old pipe wasn't The flange had holes countersunk for wood screws and stated that the screw should be secured to the floor as I tightened it. At that point, I decided to remove the shims and get some wood under the ledge. As easy as it seemed at the time, it was not when it As the rod didn't retract fully, the nuts began jamming as if they were cross-threaded. A socket was stuck on the end of the last bolt so I tried to loosen it with a socket on the end of the bolt. It took too much force for the bolt and nut to snap off. There is a similar seal we use in my industry, called a well seal, and they are actually less expensive, made from metal, and they are full cross section seals. In addition to the fact that it is in stock and I had to have my toilet disassembled and my closet flange rusted to powder and was glued to ABS. This item is good for repairing my closet flange, but it is Perhaps I didn't install it with expertise, but given the large rubber band seal and plastic locking nut on the screws, I shouldn't recommend this.

Megan Ball

| Oct 28, 2020

Over the course of the last two years I've been renovating my house in my spare time. This flange was the perfect addition when I upgraded my bathroom. I. A. 1. It will be a fight if you want to retrofit an old cast iron pipe, as many others have said. It took me two hours and nine dollars to cut the pipe using the cast iron attachment for a reciprocating saw from harbor freight. After cutting it to match my tile height, I also had to make sure the inside of the pipe was smooth before inserting the It's easy to use an old whole saw and wring out the inside of the pipe, the friction from the saw will take care of the rust and grime. 2. 1. 2. 3. After finishing the wall of the pipe for about three inches, you're good to go. I used silicon on the inside of the flange for extra assurance, but you do not need it for an installation since you'll be caulking your toilet anyway, which will prevent backflushing. 2.
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4. It's also possible to have "gurgling" problems from inadequately vented pipes if your home is old. If you'd like an AAV (Oatey or any knockoff will do) attached to another entry of the same stack this pipe is attached to, make sure you attach it somewhere in close proximity. The gurgling sound that comes from a nearby sink or drain pipe will be eliminated.

Overall, I have had no problems with this product, I would get it again should I build another old house with cast iron pipes.

Maggie Shaw

| Jul 18, 2020