PORTER-CABLE Orbital Jig Saw, 6.0-Amp, Corded (PCE345)
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To install the molding, you'll need a dremel-style oscillating tool that can cut very fine lines without leaving a ragged edge. It can also make a straight plunge cut in place, which is very useful for cutting molding. (I know because I've done some of that work myself.) ) A jig saw drives the blade down (a lot), then pulls it back up, leaving your moldings and wall battered to death, as well as wrecking your wrist trying to keep it steady while it slams into the wall. Trust me when I say you won't like the results. Dremel tools are expensive, but if you look around, you can find MUCH less expensive alternatives (HF). For a clean plunge cut, simply use the oscillating tool and blades with tiny teeth on only the front end. Jig saws are great and serve a purpose, and this one appears to be a good tool, but it will fall short of your expectations. (Neither will a circular saw, unless it's a very small one, and you don't mind the rip out and end divots that come with any circular saw.) br>br>Depending on how steady your hand is and how few/small the cuts are, you could just try it with a rotary tool, which is very inexpensive. Get the off-brand one with the wand attachment and you can do some small detail work with what is essentially a sideways 1 inch circular saw attachment for a lot less money. Unfortunately, it's a small hand-held saw blade, so if it's going to be visible and you care about straight lines, use an oscillating tool. It is the most practical of the three alternatives. br>br>PS I realize this is an old question, and you've probably finished the project by now, but I figured I'd answer for others who might be interested in knowing the answer, as I had the same issue a while back.
It does, in fact, accept U-. T-shank and shank blades to cut shanks I got a Porter-style hat. I started cutting out the holes on my project with a cable jigsaw on June 25th, and today, June 29th, I started cutting out the holes with a u-saw. I have $30 in u-saw. I didn't want to throw away my shank blades, so I took a chance and bought this Porter-style blade. Jigsaw puzzle made of cables. It performs admirably and is far superior to the shoddy 30-year-old skil I was previously employing.
There is no case, just a can in a box.
Yes, the voltage is limited to 110 volts.
Selected User Reviews For PORTER-CABLE Orbital Jig Saw, 6.0-Amp, Corded (PCE345)
Saw does everything that is required of it. This is an "ORBITAL" jigsaw, so it's great value for money. I bought some extra T type blades to keep on hand. Those who went to the trouble of taking pictures and pointing out that the blade was at a forward angle from the base and was therefore a defect should "LEARN" about the tool they are using before writing a negative review. There are four orbital settings on this tool. This means you can set the blade tip to angle back and forth into the cut while cutting difficult materials to make it easier to cut into the material. Cutting tight circles or arcs is a breeze with this tool. Slowing the speed of a jigsaw while adjusting the obital action can be used to visually orbserve this. The blade can be seen cutting up and down as well as moving back and forth when viewed from the side. I hope this has been of assistance.
This is a mediocre product from a mediocre company. Ezame advertises an optional rip fence and even has a section in the manual explaining how to use it. The problem is that the rip fence isn't available; it took me 40 minutes on the phone to figure out that no one could find a rip fence for this saw. There is no dust collection port, and the saw actually blows dust into your safety glasses, obscuring your vision. If the wind blows straight up and through the goggles, this is what I'm talking about. eye protection that is fashionable. A collection of chips forms after a few seconds, making visibility poor and making it difficult to see the line you're cutting. It's difficult to turn on the lock. When you realize that the speed dial controls maximum speed rather than actual speed, the trigger isn't so bad. The power cable isn't grounded. My SkilSaw is much worse when it comes to cutting, but the blade deflection on this model is steep enough that cutting a straight line takes a lot of practice, and cutting neat curves is impossible. This thing steers like a fighter jet. Sanding is going to be a big part of the project. Only on two occasions have I used it. It can probably handle more than that out of the box, but not without stuttering. The customer service was impolite. They hung up on me after they couldn't find my parts order, despite my offer to email it to them. Each calorie was followed by a ten-minute hold period. Keep in mind that you'll be dealing with Black and Decker rather than Porter Cable, and that you'll be dealing with them. If you're in the market for a jigsaw, $120 will get you a nice Makita or Bosch. This saw should only be purchased if absolutely necessary. It's also the last Porter Cable item I'll ever purchase.
model at the finish br>I've been experimenting with a variety of high-end products. For years, I'd been using handsaws and wished for something more efficient for repetitive tasks; Not for commercial use, but for work around the house. br>I was pleasantly surprised by the saw's quality. br>br>There is, however, a learning curve. I spent about an hour practicing straight and curved cuts on various pieces and species of scrap wood, and whenever I have a project, I try to practice on a piece of the wood I'll be using, especially if it's new to this saw. If you've never used a circular saw before, I strongly advise you to try this. It can easily wander if you are not paying attention and cutting with confidence.
It was impossible to cut straight with it. Regardless of the blade, material, or speed used, the blade veered off the line. I returned it and purchased the Porter Cable in its place. It's a good solid jig saw that cuts straight and smooth for the price. The extra power of 6 amps makes a significant difference. The saw is well-made and has a nice appearance. Excellent balance and control over the trigger speed. There are no extra features, but precision is more important to me than frills.
Although it appeared to be a solid tool, there was a problem with the quality. The foot or base plate was not machined properly, and the 90-degree angle was not maintained. The degree setting isn't accurate, and the vertical setting isn't accurate either. That was immediately apparent, and the twist tie never even came loose from the cord, so it was returned, with a replacement on the way. Perhaps it was a fluke, but we'll see. br>br>The replacement has the same problem, so I'll have to get something else.
The blade does not stay in the saw due to inaccuracy of alignment. To keep the blade in place while in use, I have to whack it into a holder on a benchtop. Both Bosch and Dewalt blades have worked well for me. Porter Cable provided poor service, with no replacement and only the option of taking it to a repair shop. What you pay for is unquestionably worth it. It saved my butt, but it wasn't even close to my cordless Dewalt, which seized after ten years.
First and foremost, let me state that I am a huge supporter of Porter Cable tools. I bought this jigsaw secondhand and it lasted years, so I didn't have to look far for a replacement. br>As far as mistakes go, you get what you pay for, and this is by far one of the worst jigsaws I've ever owned. br>Hard to see the blade with all the crap around it, and the bottom plate loosened during a round cutjust seems like a $60 tool SAVE YOUR TIME AND GET THE $79 BOSCH IT'S A BETTER BUY AND LESS HASSLE.
I bought the PCE345 to make a sign out of 1/2" thick aspen. For this project, I used Bosch T101AO3 blades, and while I was pleased with the PCE345's responsiveness, I did notice that many of the curved faces I cut out were not vertical. With the proper application of sandpaper, I was able to address these sloped faces and achieve the desired result; for the money, I believe this saw is well worth the money.
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