WEN 6530 6-Amp Electric Hand Planer, 3-1/4-Inch
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There are three general tools in this line that you will require:br>1 - Jointer (NOT "Joiner") is a term used to describe a person who joins together two or more pieces of Look for videos that explain what this is and how to use it, as well as why it isn't just a planer. It isn't cheap, and it isn't a purchase to be taken lightly. It's for when you're ready to take your woodworking to the next level. When considering this, I recommend taking a look at the CuTech 8". Again, it is not inexpensive.
2 - Planer - This is the most important tool for ensuring consistency in wood. It's a reasonably priced part that makes the sides nominally equal (this only works if the wood isn't bowed, twisted, or otherwise uneven - see below). This is where the joiner comes in handy.
3 - one or more of these It's a middle tool that can do some of the work of the two preceding tools with some care. Not all of it, but a portion of it. I'd recommend spending the extra cash on the 4" model; it'll almost certainly be worth it.
Look it up on Amazon 3. It has 25 blades and is available from a variety of manufacturers.
Should be familiar with plain, uneven boards. It's a little light, but it gets the job done.
Selected User Reviews For WEN 6530 6-Amp Electric Hand Planer, 3-1/4-Inch
What a wonderful resource! I've never used an electric hand planer before, and I'm pleasantly surprised at how useful it is. Because I'm a beginner woodworker, my work is still a little sloppy, with a lot of uneven surfaces and mismatched joints. I put my orbital sander to the test and went through a lot of 80-grit sandpaper before purchasing this tool. paper with grit This tool, on the other hand, makes the process a lot simpler. It has enough power to cut troughs up to 1/8" deep, but when set on a shallow setting (e. g. It works as a super belt sander (, 1/64). I made a butcher-block work bench out of scrap wood. top of the block The surface was uneven and covered in glue residue after gluing and clamping all of these crappy wood pieces together. I was able to level and smooth it out in about 30 minutes using this planer. I'm not sure how long sanding would have taken. It is simple to use. br>br> The cutting depth is the only thing you need to keep an eye on. The chip collection bag fills up quickly, as others have mentioned. I gave up and let the chips fall where they may. Dealing with the small bag was more important than the big clean up later. br>br>The only other minor quibble is that the depth control knob should be lockable. Because the planer is operated by twisting the knob with your front hand, it's all too easy to change the cutting depth while using it.
I just got mine, so I haven't had a chance to see how it holds up over time aside from trying it out. This is, however, my most recent review, and I may return to update it later. I've worked in the construction industry my entire life and have used both electric and manual planers. The front and back decks were slightly out of alignment right out of the box, and the blades were not properly adjusted. To get the two decks to line up perfectly (at zero), the front deck needed some filing on one side and the back deck required a thin cardboard shim in the front. Then, using a straight edge (a square blade), I realigned both blades so that they were perfectly aligned at zero depth, just touching the straight edge. on both the planer's sides Then I put it to work on a scrap piece of wood, and it produced smooth, even cuts. I don't use a planer very often in my work. Door and cabinet installation on occasion. So, for less than $40, I believe this planer will now serve me well. br>br>Also, based on other reviews I've read here, it appears that some of these planers have quality control issues; it appears that I was fortunate with mine, and I believe that many people expect good results right out of the box without making any blade adjustments. And getting the proper blade adjustment with any planer takes time. If you're not sure how to do it, there are a number of YouTube videos that can help.
used. I attempted to plan some 2x3 red oak. It seemed to be working fine at first, with the planer set to the lowest setting and five passes completed. On the sixth pass, the ball is coming in slowly on the board. only getting started with the cutting On one side, the blade split into four pieces and flew away. The blade-holding clamp was also bent as a result. went to hell with the drum. I'm now forced to use a paperweight. "It's a WEN, WEN it works," as the old adage goes. I got what I paid for, but the bad news is that I had to go to WEN'S website to order replacement parts. They don't have any because they're all out of stock. Doesn't deserve even a single star!.
br>The first time it arrived inside the box, it was broken - Its long life speaks for itself. br>I received a complete refund and was able to re-book my flight. order. br>On the second use, the motor began to emit electricity sparks and a burned odor. br>As I previously stated, every product has some flaws. and (inexplicably) re- ordered. br>The motor started sparking for the third time on the first use as well. br>I believe wood chips from the ventilation shaft got into the motor. I didn't have a shop vacuum, so I had to rely on the collection bag. br>It's inexpensive, looks decent, and has a lot of positive feedback, but it's by far the WORST POWERTOOL I've ever used. br>I will never, ever purchase a WEN product.
In the construction of my 15-foot wooden boat, he was indispensable. There has been a great deal of preparation.
Due to the house settling over time, I had a couple of closet doors that wouldn't fully close. The issue was with the doors' tops. I fixed the problem by using the Wen to remove about 1/16 of an inch of wood along the top of the door, and they now close perfectly. I did not remove the door; While the door was still attached, I used a step ladder to plane along the top. br>br>Note that the instructions state that you should never plane across the grain of the wood to avoid splitting at the piece's edges. But, since I didn't have that option, I decided to give it a shot. I wrapped a piece of masking tape around the front top edge of the plane's pass, where it would leave the surface. That appeared to solve the problem, and edge splitting was virtually non-existent. br>br>I considered using a belt sander, but I didn't want dust all over the place, plus it would have taken a long time. The chip catcher bag on the Wen does a great job, and cleanup is a breeze. If your doors stick or won't close, this tool has a good chance of resolving the issue if one of the door's edges is too high to allow closure.
I've had nothing but problems as a result of this. It prefers to work on the edges, where it will magically stop 6" or so into any type of wood; I've tried it on six different types. I've been doing woodworking for ten years and have never had this issue with the other two I've owned. I attempted to save money, but it backfired. The adjustment knob's design SHOULD have the option of being locked in place rather than having to be careful not to twist it. I do like the little back leg that keeps the blades from getting messed up if you put it down before it's completely stopped; it's honestly the only good thing about this!.
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