4 inch Dust Separator Cyclone Dust Collector Kit for Use with Barrels Trash Cans Buckets or Custom Built Containers
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It would be great if you could find a 20 gallon Craigslist is a good place to find them For less than 20 bucks, you can list your business. There is a locking lid on the barrels, making them airtight. I have built two of these and they work great.
Could you please explain why the elbow was mounted on the side? Also does it make a difference if the elbow at the input is about 6" longer than the elbow at the output before it makes a 90 degree turn? As a result, debris would still have to travel upward, unlike parallel, and would still result in cyclical action. Obviously, this isn't an answer, but I was curious if it had anything to do with the side mount.
The larger hose and tools can be connected to the 30 gallon container through a reducer. Depending on the size of the hose you are using, the cone-shaped reducers can be cut to fit if regular reducers won't fit, then you can cut the cone-shaped reducer. Although there are 4" reducers for around $5k that can go down to several smaller sizes. I wish you the best of
As far as I can tell, it shouldn't.
Selected User Reviews For 4 inch Dust Separator Cyclone Dust Collector Kit for Use with Barrels Trash Cans Buckets or Custom Built Containers
The dust collector is connected to a 1HP dust collector in a 20 gal bucket with a 21" diameter and 21" height per the instructions. Around half of the dust was captured in the bucket, and the rest ended up in As a result, I moved the dust collector port to the center of the lid and removed the elbow inside it, which has increased the extractor's efficiency to just over 95%. A piece of clear plexiglass was taped to the top to cover the hole originally present.
real cyclone separators have the exit hole in the middle and are typically more effective. After reading another review in which the exit vent was suggested as being in the center, I began to think I may be able to adjust my existing unit. A vent from this product was placed in the center of the blockade to prevent the existing hole from exiting. In my installation, the exit vent was turned upside down compared to how the instructions instructed. After less than half an hour and significant improvements in the first stage dust collection, the project was completed. When using this device, it is highly recommended to place the exit vent in the center.
In an appropriately sized barrel (I used a 40 gallon fiber barrel), these fittings perform remarkably well. It is obvious that a 5 gallon orange bucket would not work for this purpose because there is not enough room for the chips to settle before being sucked back out of the bucket. It is attached to a large shop vac from my planer and jointer, and the HEPA filter in the shop vac only picks up fine dust. I think this is a far better alternative for dust collection in commercial buildings than the commercial dust collection systems they use.
A plastic 50 gallon shipping drum that I bought locally for $30 served as my hookup. A harbor freight dust collector with a 1hp motor that I bought on sale for $110 is supplying the suction. By adding a 4" hose for $25, this Dust collection unit is still way cheaper than the lowest price for a comparable unit. It works just as well if not better than the lowest-priced unit. Put some 50 gallon can liners in the trash, and cleanup will be You can find many YouTube videos online that explain how to do this.
As much as I want an Oneida cyclone, I was really hoping this will be cheaper. It doesn't work in the way it is intended to. In addition to this, I purchased a 30 gallon plastic barrel to go with it, believing it would provide adequate distance for the cyclone to work. Using a Harbor Freight dust collection system and venting the exhaust outside without a filter bag, I am collecting dust outside. There is something wrong with this product because the cyclone action is too good. I had dust and chips spewing from the exhaust port since the dust collector was on, but it wasn't actively sucking up dust. It was actually stirring up the dust so much that it was gathering previously picked up dust and chips and just passing them through instead of retaining them at the bottom. Since it sucked up the water and out, I was never able to fill the barrel more than an inch or two. Then I have to find a way to convert to the Oneida and get a new lid.
Although this was a tempting alternative to some of the other cyclone separators freestanding on the market (and flexible in terms of the size and shape I could select), there are some modifications and/or additions you may need to consider if you want to maximize its benefits. "- " The directions indicate that the chutes on the lid should be positioned as indicated in the instructions, but I used them in a different position. It's important to note that the inlet (straight flange and elbow) goes along the side of the lid, but the output (straight flange only) should go through "- " There may be a challenge here if the lid is not spacious enough for these bases to fit into. By trimming the curved edges of the flange bases (on either side) to straight edges, I was able to eliminate the problem. "- " It may be beneficial to make your own gaskets since the set does not come with any. A thin, closed-end pencil was used Caulk or other options would also likely work, but cell foam sheets are likely to work the best. I am pleased with the overall results It has been quite a while since I used the saw, sander, router, and vacuumed around the shop, but the filter in the motor unit is still fairly clean, and the separation drum is filling.
There are few things that make me laugh more than how much cheaper this is than any other option. A few days ago, I almost purchased the Super Dust Deputy to use with my dust collector and I'm glad I found this instead. This method separates at a fraction of the cost. Do yourself a favor and look for one of those blue plastic containers with the locking lid (I found mine on Craigslist for $10). The only thing you need to do is use the included template to cut out the holes. I consider this purchase to be one of my best so far.
I will purchase a full-sized dust collector in the near future, but for now, I have been using these. There are four to two inches between my feet To connect my ShopVac, I used a 1/2 reducer and about 10' of 4" clear flex between it and the can outlet and from the can to the tool port. While there is not enough airflow to pull chips off the top of the table, the dust port does not clog. I wind up with no chips in my ShopVac, just the fine dust. Much better than letting that jointer spew chips and dust all over the place!.
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