LENOX Tools Hole Saw with Arbor, Speed Slot, 1-Inch (1772481)
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Mild Steel RMPS Recommendation - Stainless Steel, Model 350 - 175, Made of Cast Iron - Brass, 235 - 470, as well as Aluminum - 525
5/16 inch is a possibility.
Depth of Cut: 9/16"
It's reasonably clean. Make sure the pilot bit is securely tightened, and start slowly until you've completed your outline, after which you can go faster. Mine is extremely effective.
Selected User Reviews For LENOX Tools Hole Saw with Arbor, Speed Slot, 1-Inch (1772481)
Anyone interested in purchasing one of these for a future project should be aware that the hex shank on this guy is a hefty 9mm, not the 1/4 or 1/2 that you'd expect for a 1" hole saw. Unfortunately, I didn't realize this until I had the energy and free time for my project and eagerly grabbed my drill, opened up my new tool, and attempted to connect the saw to the drill. Only to discover that the bit is just a tad too big for the hole. br>br>Wait, that was a mistake. _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _()_/ _(.
It could be useful for a variety of purposes. Even at 530 rpm, which is the slowest my drill press can go, the edges of the hole were burned. Every 1/2 inch or so, I had to take a 15-minute break to allow the system to cool down. The burnt wood/glue emits a foul odor. The industrial air cleaner had to be turned on for the night. It's just not the right tool for this job, which is to drill 36 1-inch holes. In each of several violin molds, inch holes were drilled in 1" Baltic birch plywood. Fortunately, instead of a series of holes, I can cut channels with a saber saw in this case. I just watched a YouTube video about how hole saws are mostly designed for metal, where lubricant is typically used to flush away the chips, and thus the teeth aren't designed to eject wood debris well. Alternatively, it's possible that the Russian glue is the source of my issue. br>br>The plug ejection feature worked well, which is an improvement over previous models I've used.
It's a decent product that cuts well. My only quibble is with the pilot sequence. I was rerouting some hydraulic hoses by drilling through the plate steel on my tow truck's deck. Worked perfectly until the pilot bit began to emerge from the underside, at which point the bit became stuck (which isn't unusual) and bent! I had to remove it and clamp it in a vice to straighten it because it was so far off center. I've broken a lot of drill bits in my time, but none have ever bent like that. For the second hole, I simply used another bit to make a pilot hole, then used the hole saw with the pilot bit to finish the job.
All of the teeth (except three) broke sheered off within 10 minutes of using this hole saw to notch a 3/4" black iron steel pipe. I have a 1 1/2" version of this bit, and it cuts sheet metal like butter, but I think the teeth are too grabby and hard for notching pipe.
I purchased it to use with a Milwaukee door lock installation kit to drill a door lock hole. When compared to the Milwaukee hole saw bit I previously used, this saw took an eternity to drill the 1 inch holes. I had to drill four holes in 3/4-inch MDF yesterday, and the process took a long time. I'm not sure why it's received such positive feedback. Perhaps it is more effective on thin metal.
This is a terrible situation. I spent 20 minutes attempting to remove the core from the first hole I drilled through a stud to run pex through. No luck. It was necessary to return with the core intact: (Instead, I purchased some daring spade bits, and WOW! It's now much easier to make holes.
This hole saw performs admirably as long as you know how to use a hole saw properly. Many people use hole saws to cut holes in metal at high speeds, which can bend or break the pilot bit as the hole saw's teeth grab the metal. When drilling metal, use a cutting/drill lubricant, keep your teeth clean of wood chips, and avoid drilling into concrete, and this hole saw will last a long time. I've used several Lenox hole saws and have been very satisfied with them. If you break one of the parts, you can replace it.
The bolts underneath my kitchen faucet were rusted and difficult to access when I replaced it. I drilled them out from the top, right through the old faucet base, with this tool. It created a hole larger than the bolt, so the bolt simply fell out when it broke through. It worked extremely well, and I was very impressed. I'm not a fan of crawling under sinks and attempting to work while debris falls on my head.
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