SE Heavy-Duty 12-Piece Hollow Leather Punch Set with Zipper Pouch - 791LP
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In the past, I have used this punch set to cut wads for flintlock rifles in sizes from 31 caliber to 50 caliber. It is possible to use a pillow ticking material of 1015, cloth, cork, leather, felt, soft craft rubber, fiber board, and card board without any issues. Old magazines can be used as cutting boards and hard rubber hammers can be used as hammers so that the punches do not get damaged. We've cut hundreds of wads and patches and all we had to do was lightly go over the punches with a mill basted file -- nothing stays sharp forever. It's up to you to decide.
It has a hammer and soft wood underneath, and comes with a brief instruction manual.
The cutting edge of the punch is used against the leather, and then the top end of the punch is struck When hitting the punch, depending on how thick the leather is, you may need to repeat it or hit harder next time.
It is true that they punched carpets up to one quarter inch deep. Using a hammer, put a strong piece of wood under the carpet and drive the piece of wood through firmly.
Selected User Reviews For SE Heavy-Duty 12-Piece Hollow Leather Punch Set with Zipper Pouch - 791LP
Most of the ends are quite sharp, however, some of them have dull edges, and some do not appear to be perfectly straight. The result is that when stamping something, small areas are Though they felt sturdy and seemed like they would work well, some of the ends have chipped, making cutting more difficult, since it has to be rotated for every Overall, it seems ok because of the price, the smaller ones seem to be nicer, but I probably wouldn't buy it again, unless I needed it for a brief period of time. Please let me know what you think of this review if it helps. As a reviewer who bases many of my purchases on reviews, I am motivated to write reviews to help others.
In terms of the punches, they are heavy duty, but as with all the cheap versions, you will have to sand and polish the ends otherwise they stick in the leather and are almost impossible to remove. Rynowet sandpaper in 220 grit is used to chuck punches into my drill press, then I sand to a high gloss using a wheel or 600 grit, then buff with a cloth. Those are the things that make a Below you will find an image showing the results of my version, and the one you see now. This piece was produced. On the left, production is completed on the right, it is in process.
An error in design resulted in this result The unit is made from a soft metal (aluminum?. throughout the entire impact area because there is a depression underneath the punch This leather will be thrown out. Having said that, it would have been better had it been a hollow tube and just accumulated the leather and let it come out the other In the end, I was able to straighten the tool and use it for a couple of more holes (for a total of six), and then it It is highly unlikely that I will purchase any products from this manufacturer in the future, and I strongly suggest that you do the same.
In order to make a leather axe sheath, I needed to punch holes in that material. On Amazon, I originally purchased the Tekton pliers style punch, but it turned out that the head could not be positioned correctly, so it didn't work. The holes created were sloppy and did not go through all the way. For the old school leather punch style, I purchased these. I found that it was a lot more effective. My holes were nice and uniform, and I was able to punch right through multiple layers of leather without any problems. Initially I was skeptical due to their low cost, but after using them all my concerns were laid to rest. If you're going to be doing any kind of leather work and you add a hole for a belt every few years, I highly recommend these style punches. I highly recommend this book.
This is a beautiful case (which I had been wanting). The punches, however, are not as sharp as they should be. Several of them won't punch through even paper thoroughly, as I am working on an old cutting board and using a standard hammer. I'll ask my husband if he can sharpen the edges of the ones that say they won't punch through every inch of paper. Furthermore, pulling the paper or card stock out of the channel is not as easy as it seems. As I continued, I realized I needed to clean out the channel with a paper clip after two or three punches. The paper or cardstock can roam freely into that opening and then quickly drop out when it narrows between the punch end and the open "window" channel, which causes the punches to get stuck and then compact into dense plugs as you punch more. I hasten to add that it's not easy to dig them out of the channel, especially in My strategy is to It is tedious.
a lot of others have said, these are handy when you need to make a small hole or two in a belt, and that is exactly why I purchased These razors do the job and are sharp enough to get the job done without damaging Only small holes are punched by it. In addition to drilling, I tried scraping the leather with a needle, but this can tear the leather and leave a poorly shaped or sized I believe that this is the right course of action. It is important to use the right tool for the.
Despite its description of being able to be used on leather, I purchased this set anyway. A large amount of drilling was required on my guitar strap in order to install the after market There were 3 stars given to it As a matter of fact, the punch does not punch the size of the hole it is supposed to punch. This punch will create holes undersize. If you must use it, move to the next one up for the correct size. Yes, I am aware. You may not think it's so small, but try one and you will be surprised. If you don't punch it up another one, you will have to. Second, I feel like the holes were not as sharp as they should be because they were punched with There was no problem using it where I did. It has a shoulder on top of which the fuzz is covered. Take a look at the.
It is a very inexpensive set of hollow punches. The set as a whole costs less than some of the individual punches that are available elsewhere. This is why I did not expect them to be perfectly finished (which they aren't). It is also the case that I expected them to be functional (which is also not the case). It is impossible to cut through cardboard or heavy paper with these tools. You can ruin the edges even further by pushing too hard (which you shouldn't have to), so they curl over. In this picture, the cardboard to be punched is behind a standard food cutting board. These tools cannot be described as "heavy duty" if plastic cutting boards can round over the edges in this way.