OWDEN 12Piece Leather hole punch set with a free cutting mat,Lather tool,Hollow punch set, Cut leather rubber paper Soft material
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They are made in China, according to the box. In all honesty, I would have opted for a different option if I had knownthat when I ordered!
Is there any need to make a hole in a It seems to be all right!
I would suggest using whatever method you feel most comfortable with. As far as leather is concerned, I do not work with it, and I also use hammers. If the leather were thinner and so soft, I probably would
By punching my set through several layers of leather, I can remove the other layers. Punching a hole through stain glass or heavy metal is not a good idea. As well as punching copper sheet, I have also worked with sheet metal. My answer is probably Ensure that the backing of your punching materials is flat. Purchasing this product has been a good experience for me.
Selected User Reviews For OWDEN 12Piece Leather hole punch set with a free cutting mat,Lather tool,Hollow punch set, Cut leather rubber paper Soft material
to make a circular punch sharp is to grind the angle perfectly concentric to the internal diameter of a drill or grinder. A rough hole has been drilled in each. It would be impossible for the edge to be sharp. Sharp edges are present on most of the surfaces. In order to puncture photo paper, I had to use excessive force again and again with a hammer. This is surely one of the more effective ways to smack a penny. This is not as sharp as the edge of a penny.
I picked up each punch to discover that the center holes were drilled into the punches with extremely dull drill bits that were very hot and discolored and had gouged the inside bore of each punch. It was obvious that most of the punches were very dull, and there were remarkably few grinding marks on have very deep gouges and nicks in their bodies, and on the majority of them, the relief cut on the relief cutout is unbelievably sharp, and the relief cut is actually sharper than the edges on the punch tips! While I am aware that I paid much less for these than a professional set and will keep them and probably do things like grind the edges sharp myself and clean up the relief cuts to avoid getting cut, there is still a little bit of expectation of quality when you buy something, and these felt lacking.
The hole punches are good value for the money, as they have good machining and decent finishes. There have been a few 'other punchers' that I regret trying. I am satisfied with the sharpness, quality, and finish of OWN 12Piece, and their price was excellent as well. Use the punching mat that comes with the kit or a dense material similar to that. There must be a uniform thickness and density of the mat. The use of wood as a punching mat is not recommended. In addition to old CDs and DVDs, I have also noticed that the 'old' ones make good punching mats.
There is nothing dull about these punches! It is possible that you are hitting the wrong surface when you are having difficulty getting them to go through. You should not use wood, a cutting board, or even a PoundoTM Board. Instead, use a polyboard. You can get these boards in sets of three or more different sizes in most department stores. It won't take you long to punch an inch of leather with the polyboard if you place it on a sturdy workbench. If you polish your punches' edges, not only will they cut more easily, but they will also pull back out easier. I shot my first picture at the very tip of the punch - notice the edge around the very top. There are several horizontal scratches that run all the way around the shiny edge of You may also want to take a look at the photo of the same punch after it has been pulled across a leather strop several Nearly all of the scratches have disappeared! Scratches grip the material with such force that they actually absorb a lot of energy you would rather use TO your advantage than against! If you've ever "sharpened" a blade, do yourself a favor and check out YouTube for "how to make a leather strop," and start polishing the edges of every cutting surface you've ever used. If you can't be bothered to spend a minimum of a few minutes per punch with a strop on these, a sturdy table and polyboard alone will change your life. Do both, and you'll be very happily surprised with the difference!.
This set of punches met all of my requirements. To punch circles from felt (which I backed with fusible stabilizer first), I used them, and they work well! It is impossible to imagine having to buy another set of these because of the large variety of sizes available. In addition to the tiny set I got from a craft store, I was able to get larger sizes with this set.
Our farm sprinklers need gaskets, so I bought it to make them. The rubber skirting is 1/4 inch thick. The cut is excellent. As sharp as the cutting edge, the reliefs on my watch are almost as sharp as the meat hook handles. I hold mine with vice grips anyway to prevent meat hooks from banging against the hammer. 4x4 blocks work well as a cutting board, and one can punch through them without using a lot of force. The 1/2" and the 1/4" were used. I punched about 50 1/2" holes and I'm sure that there were quite a few 1/4" holes too. I like the sharpness of the image. These are even able to be used by my nine year old. This set is a good value for the price.
The purpose of this set is to cut pieces of felt and wool into consistent circles of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 inch. This item comes with machined dies that are quite dirty, so you must clean them first. For those who would like to use a mat, this is the only option available. There are no consitencies in the dies' marking around a circle, but they appear to be consistent with However, they appear to be better than some methods I have tried in the past.
Yesterday I received them. In fact, the largest one, when hit directly (hard) with a rubber mallet, cannot penetrate even one index card. They are so dull as to be functionally useless, and now I need to figure out how to sharpen them in order to use them again. Choosing another option would be a good choice.
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