Leviton GFSW1-I Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Combination Switch Tamper-Resistant Receptacle with LED Indicator, 15-Amp, Ivory
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
It is a simple one-step process A way (Ontario-based 5) switch, also known as an SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) switch. This is to be used with a three-way microphone If you want a circuit with three wires, you need an SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch, but this one does not have three wires. Based on what I've seen, Leviton does not make a combination GFCI and 3-prong outlet Switch with a three-way (SPDT) configuration.
There is no problem with a 15amp outlet accepting a 20amp feed as long as the Maln run is 12 gauge wire. It is not unusual to have more than one outlet per circuit, ideally spread out over eight outlets.
Taking into account the description you provided, you should be able to accomplish this task. It would not be a bad idea to look at the GFSW1 as Two separate switches are required (1) a GFCI and (2) a separate power source. In order for a GFCI to work, two terminals must be linked with hot and neutral, and this will power both the device and the outlet. There is a switch on the back of the device that will switch the leads that are on the back of the fan. This would take the place of the switch currently on the fan, and you would just need to attach the leads from the GFSW1 to the leads from that switch. In order to protect the fan by a GFCI, you would need one of the switch leads to be connected to the hot terminal of the GFCI and the neutral lead from the fan to be connected to the neutral terminal of the GFCI. Mr. David Keller is the Vice President, Electronic Distribution for Leviton Corporation The business world
My search for it led me to the Home Depot website
Selected User Reviews For Leviton GFSW1-I Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Combination Switch Tamper-Resistant Receptacle with LED Indicator, 15-Amp, Ivory
It has been suggested that the instructions are incorrect in many reviews. That is not the case. Switches like this are used for a variety of things, so it all depends on what you need to use them for. The switch should be a switch for this outlet for some people Some people want their switch to function in a completely different manner. In addition to downstream (the "load"), what about upstream? Is it important to you that those outlets and devices are protected against ground faults? What do you think of switching them and what do you think of not switching them? Bottom line is that there are quite a few combinations of switches and outlets that could be used, and they will all GFCI outlets are designed to protect both the line and load, so be sure to read up on them or call an electrician if you're not familiar. There is some correctness in the instructions, but they are only applicable to a couple of I just wanted to point out the following In most homes, the outlet and the switch are not wired together. As well as being two separate items, the switch and the outlet may be two separate concepts. It will need to be wired to turn the outlet on and off if you want it to turn the outlet on and off.
A copy of the right schematic is attached. I wish I hadn't wasted my time like that! Garbage instructions that are complete and utter. Is it possible for these to be shipped with faulty I had to see it to believe it, but so many people had pointed out that the instructions were incorrect. In contrast to all the other people who have simply pointed out that the instructions are incorrect and then left it at that, I have attached the correct In addition, the wall - The mounting plate that came with it was not ready for installation right out of the box. I had to drill two holes (11/64" diameter, see picture with red marking "2") to get it to go on. Alternately, you can use the wicked shape slot on the bottom (that won't give you rigid installation either There is no good surface contact on the installation screws because those are used for grounding the outlet)
Because of the frustration with the diagram and the fact that the manufacturer could have molded the part with the holes, I am giving this.
You would be in a much worse position if they didn't give you any Honestly, I had no idea that there could be so many ways to install this switch incorrectly Math classes in college date back to this time. I think something like this. The hours wasted over approximately 6 weekends are n * n * n * n. It's all good. A long weekend of research on multiple switches AND a RIDICULOUS amount of research. Now I know how to do it. While I was doing this, I also blew one $25 dimming switch. THE SIZE OF THE IMAGE MAY VARY ACCORDING TO YOUR SETTINGS. If you want, hire an electrician. However, he might not be able to find the answer. I found the following to be effective In my setup, I had 4 wires inside the box, a white and black set to the breakers and a white and black set for the light/fan. In most cases (unless you are passing through the back of the outlet to something different, like another outlet or light) you will not need the terminals under the yellow tape. A black wire and a black wire are built into the top of this object. These will be referred to as "black tails" from here on out 1
the black wire from the breaker (hot) to the brass screw terminal that is labeled HOT*2. Make sure the lower one of the "black tails" is connected to another HOT hole and is tightened If it's looped, it's too much work. 1. 2. 3. To connect the black wire from the light/fan unit, you need the red twist cap included on the other end of the black tail. The fourth point. To the silver screw terminal, connect the two white wires. Note 5. Wire all bare earth ground wires into the green screw terminal on the bottom of the unit. This is 6. It's a test.
Install it in no time. It isn't difficult to connect for me, and I'm not sure why others complain. A wire nut attached to one of the black wires (it does not matter which one), and another black wire attached to the black side terminal of the switch (they don't do this from the factory, in case you want to use it as a standalone switch, i. e. GFCI not switched) and then connect the feed wire to the white wire, I've done it.
I am a trained electrician here in My very first thought (after studying the instructions) was that one of the switch leads went to the hot side of the load. After trying many different combinations, I eventually found a schematic for this set up and it worked perfectly! Simply connect one lead of the switch to the line hot terminal (along with the line hot which supplies power to the device) under the same terminal plate as the other. After that, the other switch leg can go to the load that you want to control with the switch. Make Leviton fix the instructions for the light fixture and so on! In spite of the fact that the instructions said to check the switches when connected like they said, there was only 18 volts on the circuit when checking the voltage. Exactly what happened? The GFCI combo switch and receptacle should be used to cut the power GFCI) trips when the light fixture is turned on, this might work for others, but it did not work.
In our bathroom, there was a need for an outlet. A single unit seems to be the best choice. There is a lot of confusion in the wiring diagram. In other words, the switch does not interfere with the outlet in any way. An electrical wire from the switch is connected to the line, and an electrical wire from the lamp is connected to the.
Since my house is old and I did not have an electrical outlet in the bathroom, I had to go without electricity. As a result of this circumstance, I decided to buy the item rather than install a brand new I agree with multiple others who have said that the wiring directions are incorrect. It does not work if you wire the switch as shown in the directions, but it will work if you unplug the outlet. This unit does not need to be hardwired, it just needs to be wired as if it were There needs to be a rewrite of the directions for the product.
Related Products For Leviton GFSW1-I Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Combination Switch Tamper-Resistant Receptacle with LED Indicator, 15-Amp, Ivory
