TOPGREENER Recessed Duplex Receptacle Outlet, Tamper-Resistant, Size 1-Gang 4.48" x 2.76", 15A 125V, TG15RD31, White
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Despite the fact that it is rated for 15 amps, it should not cause any problems. You are plugging a plug-in cord into a receptacle that draws power from a plug. The 20 amp outlet is protected by the sum total of whatever is plugged
Terminals for push-in usage are intended for use only once. There is a label on the back of the outlet that states this. It might be possible to twist the wires out, but if you are unsuccessful, it will have to be cut. Please accept my best regards from TopGreener
Here is what you need to know There is a 6-foot cable in the wall. Please accept my best regards from TopGreener
Approximately 1 inch of depth separates the outlet from the wall. 9" in length. The outlet can be installed in a standard junction box. Please accept my best regards from TopGreener
Selected User Reviews For TOPGREENER Recessed Duplex Receptacle Outlet, Tamper-Resistant, Size 1-Gang 4.48" x 2.76", 15A 125V, TG15RD31, White
Another frustrating thing about these outlets is that there is no release port on the spring terminals, so once the power wires are in that, you have to cut them off to remove them. That could be a big deal breaker if all you have in your outlet is a little cord. Additionally, I don't see any indication that this device is UL listed anywhere on it. Thus, save your money on these, and just buy a right angle power cord instead, it performs.
There was a need for me to hide the cable cabling for my new TV from view. Besides my cable box and surround sound system, I own a separate sound Two HDMI cables (one for the cable-in and a Romex power cable were put into the power outlets. Another cable for the surround sound receiver), the center channel speaker cable, a TOSLINK cable (for digital audio), and an unused (spare) 14ga cable. A backup power line is installed through the wall above my fireplace (just in case there is a problem). A simple shelf and a cable box were placed beside each other. All of the items, including the wifi booster, are powered by a high quality power strip. The wiring in this box is camouflaged by painting it the wall color so it blends in. I made a wood box to hide the wires when I could and camouflaged it with paint. Wiring is the other way around in surface mounted wire moulds painted in a matching color. If you are considering the purchase of a sound bar, it would be prudent to get a duplex kit (two outlets). My needs were met by a kit like this, even if it was not the most rugged.
The project I did this time was my first ever in electrical engineering. After ordering my first kit, the tabs that keep it from falling out of the wall immediately broke off, and it didn't sit flush against the wall. The kit that I ordered was exactly what I needed. It's better now. Although the instructions look better, it is not as good as the design. Even though I'm sure more experienced people didn't encounter these issues, there are some images and advice for those of us that have trouble. The thing turned out really nicely with a lot of advice and I was able to install it myself.
Tips Currently, the wires are somewhat stripped back, so it would be a good idea to strip it back even further. It would help if you cut the template a little shorter since it is a little too tall. For those of you with regular outlets, remove a tab from each receptacle box for the wires to pass through. Otherwise, it's impossible. Once you have everything secure, it helps to wrap electrical tape all around the screws where the wires go. instructions on this page (but not in the box) tell you what wires are ground, hot, etc. Finally, if you have an existing outlet, it doesn't make much sense to buy a kit if your outlets are in the same stud bank as the existing wire. And also there were no wire nuts in the box, so I had to go buy them from Lowe's. This resulted in a star being taken off.
The cables are hidden and I think that's a good thing. It was a successful mission. It was not easy to complete any of these tasks based on the instructions. There are a lot of gaps in them, and they caused me a lot of confusion Having a job. I spent a lot more time than I should have. Can you tell me, for example, which parts go on top and which parts go on the bottom of the container? How is the receptacle attached to the mount if the top is mounted? On the floor or near it? What is the positioning of the outlets when you cut a hole? - Which side? Right or left? In a system that has a box for both the electrical and media wires, do the media cables run? It appears that the instructions do not say that, but that's not the case. Is it upside down when these are mounted? My understanding is that they should have been after installation, but they don't mention that in the instructions. All in all, the installation experience was horrible, but the product did.
Using these if you are planning a slim, low profile mount is a must, otherwise the plug will push against the back of your device. However, when using Romex, be careful not to hang over the cable, since this will reduce the In addition, understand that this will not be able to accept any type of transformer (brick) plug.
All the cables and power connections were run in the wall with the kit, resulting in a neat looking installation. As I was running several cables from my computer to the TV, I was concerned that the cable entry holes might be a bit small. But I was able to run 3 HDMI cables, an Ethernet cable, an Optical Audio cable, and 2 RCA cables for remote headphones without any trouble. It was fairly straight forward to install, and I appreciated that they included a template for cutting the wall openings. It saved me a bunch of time and money, and it looked very professional when I was done. Amazon charges $42 for this item, but it is well worth it. In the future, I will probably buy this product again if I install a TV in a different room.
In order to replace the outlet on the nightstand, I purchased this one, however, since my outlet is a HALF-SWITCHED outlet controlled by a wall switch, this outlet did not work for me since both sides are connected to the same switch. There's also a deep cavity inside the back box that's difficult to push.
The rest of the process was wonky as a result. It is a good thing I noticed so I was able to do the second outlet by hand and scrape the template, so only one In other words, it means it cannot be connected to the wall at all. There's not much difference, but enough to make you annoyed. It wouldn't have fit given the hole was too large, so I couldn't use the portion where the cords go. However, it was still able to be installed and everything else seems to be working fine. The good news is that no one will see them, otherwise I would have to start the whole process.