1-Gal. L3000 Concentrated Water-Based Lithium Silicate Densifier, Hardener, and Sealer for Concrete & Masonry
Score By Feature
OveReview Final Score
Product Description
Questions & Answers
Hello! The L3000 is a lithium silicate, which is not the same as a siliconate water repellent (such as the SC25). Silicate sealers penetrate the concrete and chemically react in the pores, forming calcium silicate hydrate (crystalline barrier). They reduce the size of the pores while also increasing the concrete's strength. If water is spilled on a silicate-coated surface, it will be absorbed into the concrete almost immediately because silicates do not repel water. Silicone sealants are water-resistant sealants. They won't make the concrete stronger or denser, but they will cause water and other liquids to bead up and off the surface. Silicones should only be applied to white or very light concrete. If you're in the middle of a project, If you're looking for a Silane-based concrete, you've come to the right place. Instead, use a water repellent made of siloxane. If you use a siliconate water repellent on dark concrete, you'll get a semi-glossy finish. On the surface, there is a permanent white residue. Now we'll move on to the oil. ANY sealer can allow oil to penetrate it. Water repellent sealers can slow the movement of oil through pores, but they won't prevent oil from staining the concrete because the surface is still visible (penetrating sealers work below the surface). While some additives can be added to penetrating sealers to help slow down the movement even more, the concrete's surface remains exposed, and oil will stain the concrete over time. A coating is the best way to prevent oil from staining concrete. Acrylic sealers (AR350 or AR500), epoxy coatings (Foundation Armor Epoxy), and urethane coatings (UTN60) are the three primary types of coatings that leave a visible surface film. Although acrylic coatings protect concrete, if oil is spilled and left on the surface, the coating may need to be repaired. Epoxies are more durable than acrylics but not as durable as aliphatic urethanes. Most residential garages use acrylic because it requires little to no surface preparation, but if you frequently spill oil on the floor, you should use an aliphatic urethane. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.
Hello, after applying the L3000, you can paint, stain, or dye. I wouldn't use the L3000 after painting, staining, or dying. Applying the L3000 first will prevent a visible white residue from forming on the surface. A paint coating will also prevent the L3000 from penetrating it. Before using any other products, wait at least 5 days after using the L3000.
Simply ensure that the surface is clean, dry, and free of any other sealants or coatings before proceeding.
Use a garden pump sprayer with a 1/2 gallon per minute fan or cone nozzle to apply the L3000. Do not use a paint spray gun that is powered by electricity.
Selected User Reviews For 1-Gal. L3000 Concentrated Water-Based Lithium Silicate Densifier, Hardener, and Sealer for Concrete & Masonry
This product works wonders for reducing dusting and strengthening unsealed concrete. br>br>At first, I looked into Foundation Armor's Sodium SIlicate (L2000) for sealing concrete pores and reducing radon infiltration. I was also thinking about the RadonSeal brand, which is the same Sodium Silicate but is already pre-treated. already blended with water br>br>I discovered that Lithium Silicate (this stuff, the L3000 product) produces a tighter seal than sodium silicate. br>br>However, in my opinion, while this may help a little (because it reduces the spaces in the concrete), it is not the best radon solution. To be clear, I wouldn't put my faith in RadonSeal. A radon exhaust system should be installed in your home. br>br>However, the product does a good job of preventing dusting while also strengthening the concrete. It's simple to use, doesn't have much of a odor, and cleans up quickly. I spread it out with a broom and a garden sprayer. br>br>They also have excellent customer service. Before I started the job, I called and spoke with them about my application, and they were not only knowledgeable, but also very customer-focused. I have no affiliation with the company other than the fact that I have used the product and found it to be effective.
To begin, I'd like to state that this purchase was made in an attempt to correct a mistake that I had made. My first attempt at concrete countertops turned out exactly as I had hoped. There are a few things I would change the next time. br>br>To fill air bubbles and cracks, I mixed a straight Portland cement/color slurry, which worked great. I decided that because I liked the color of the slurry so much, I'd use it to cover the entire project and sand it smooth. I got the color I wanted, but Portland cement does not harden as quickly as it should. At that time, the counter was always "dusty. " I couldn't run my hand across the surface without getting Portland cement/color dust on my skin, no matter how well it was cleaned. This is where the hardener comes in. br>br>I had hoped that this would solve the dust issue and make the surface durable enough to apply a clear epoxy coat to. I was pleasantly surprised (yet skeptical) to learn that the dilution rate was one to one. Other hardeners I looked at had a rating of 1: I mixed 1 part hardener with 3 parts warm water and sprayed it on with a chemical-resistant spray bottle, as directed. The directions stated that excess should be brushed off with a hard bristle brush after half an hour. I couldn't be bothered because I had just finished a 12-hour shift. The first coat had dried and excess solution had crystallized on the surface when I awoke. With a brush attachment on my wet/dry vac, I was able to clean that up quickly, easily, and most importantly, cleanly. With just one application, the problem of dusting is solved. I reapplied the hardener after a thorough sanding to achieve the desired color consistency. br>br>In the end, this hardener cost as much as the high-strength concrete I purchased for the project. And I wouldn't hesitate to use it again for any future concrete project.
There are some restrictions. My garage floor is going to be tiled, but it's 60 years old and has a lot of spalling, chipping, and general wear and tear. I was able to chip away at any loose material, but there were still some "soft" areas. That is, if you hit the floor with a hammer in certain places, you would hear a "thud" rather than a distinct "ding," indicating that the concrete was deteriorating. br>br>I came across this product and decided to give it a try. I was skeptical that it would work, but a few days after applying it (this stuff takes a few days to really show its benefits), I struck those same areas with a hammer and heard the "ding. " It's incredible. br>br>The one-star deduction is due to the fact that it left a lot of filmy residue (salts, I believe) in some areas. I'm not sure if this was due to a reaction with my concrete. I'll have to remove the film with vinegar/water and pressure washing, which will take some time, but I'd rather have solid concrete in the long run.
On my 5-week-old trowel-finished garage floor, I sprayed L3000. Spraying it was simple. With two coats, one gallon of paint was mixed with three gallons of water to cover 500 square feet. The first coat required 2 1/2 gallons of mixed product, while the second coat required only 1 1/2 gallons. In terms of scratch resistance, it appears to have hardened the concrete. br>The only reason I didn't give it five stars was because the technician on the live chat made me believe she thought I was the most stupid person on the planet. I'm sure I don't know as much about Foundation Armor's products as she does. That's why I came up with the questions I did. I never received a clear answer as to which product would be best for sealing the floor now that the L3000 has been installed.
sealant that repels water The garage floor was relatively smooth, with a typical brush finish on the apron. I followed the instructions and used a 3:2 ratio to prepare the surface. 1:1 mix, applied with a roller (though roller use is not recommended) As instructed, I applied two coats to both areas. I felt that using the roller provided excellent coverage, and since my plan was to eventually cover the garage flooring with some type of interlocking tile, I didn't mind if any calcium buildup occurred as a result of the application. The only white buildup after it dried was in a transition strip between the apron and the garage floor, which had a lot of pitting and chipping. Because of how I applied it, I kind of expected this, but I wasn't concerned with appearances. I applied a sealer after allowing it to react for 7 days and was pleasantly surprised to discover that I only needed about half the amount of sealer for both the garage and the apron. After a week, the water has coagulated as expected, and I am prepared for the typical Wisconsin winter. Before applying the L3000 and the sealer, I used Feather Finish (a portland/vinyl product) to cover a few chips and holes, and it seemed to work just as well. The patched areas appear to be as strong as the concrete itself. I don't know what the final verdict will be because it's only been a month, but given how I flexed on the application instructions, the results so far have been excellent.
Related Products For 1-Gal. L3000 Concentrated Water-Based Lithium Silicate Densifier, Hardener, and Sealer for Concrete & Masonry
