Honeywell HM750A1000 Electrode Steam Humidifier
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The level of mine varies depending on where you are in the on cycle.
The unit has a switch that lets you choose between 110 and 220 volts. It's simple to make the switch. With 220 volts, the unit produces more steam, but with 110 volts, it is far more efficient than older TruSteam models. My units are powered by 110 volts and perform admirably.
Yes, it comes with everything. except for the circuit breaker, which is rated at 15 amps. 14 ga. A wire is used to connect two things together electrically. 18 ga. For the humidistat (which is included), there is a thermostat wire. If you want to mount the unit further away from the return duct than 5 feet, you'll need a longer steam hose, which Honeywell sells in a 15-foot length.
"Canada" is written on my copy.
Selected User Reviews For Honeywell HM750A1000 Electrode Steam Humidifier
I'm a homeowner who discovered my Truesteam humidifier was leaking and needed to be replaced as soon as possible. I had hoped that by purchasing another Honeywell product, I would be able to quickly replace it. Thankfully, I was correct! It took several hours, but it was simple. I photographed the wiring on the old humidifier, and the new connection labels mostly matched. This item performs admirably.
Excellent quality and quick delivery. Because this is so efficient, I was able to reduce the humidifier setting from before. It's a perfect match for my Nest thermostat. I enlisted the assistance of a neighbor who works in the HVAC industry. He owns one and has given it to me. I could have done it myself based on the installation instructions, but I'm glad I had him. This is a system that I would recommend. It's more expensive than humidifiers that dump water into a filter element and blow hot air through it before returning to the furnace's lower portion. Some of it is subjected to the same procedure as before. Water is heated in this system, resulting in steam that escapes through the top of the plenum and into your home. My furnace is also more efficient now that it has two fewer "holes. ".
I ran into some difficulties installing my down draft FAU, but I was able to overcome them by following the instructions in the online manual on how to install the nozzle below the unit. Why didn't this method appear in the unit's manual? Works great; it increased our humidity from 32 to 45 in about an hour and now maintains a constant of 40. After a month of use, the power bill only increased by a small amount. It was well worth the investment!.
If you enjoy DIY projects, this is a very simple project to complete. I upgraded from an older truSteam HM509 and would recommend 240V because it produces significantly more steam and reduces run time. It's a lot easier to load now. I've only had it for this winter, so I can't comment on how long it will last. However, it only took a day for my house to reach the desired humidity level. It then ran infrequently to maintain its position. The 240V wiring was done by me. I hardwired in a fused cutoff. It's simple to turn off and "summerize" the system. It should be "ized. " With the exception of the first day or two, it had no effect on my electricity bill. My old TruSteam had to run indefinitely and could never get things to the desired temperature.
We had our first dip in humidity where the humidity outside was 7% but the humidifier would only hold at 27% inside the humidifier would only hold at 27% inside the humidifier% I watched it for a couple of days and it hasn yet brought humidity back to 40% yet. Despite the fact that there is no indication of an alarm, I have requested maintenance. I finally rewired the system to 220Volts and while it performed better, it cannot maintain more than 37% humidity in our 3108 square foot house. The Honeywell ratinf of 8000 square feet is a farce.
I'm very pleased with the open box deal I got on this humidifier. Even though I live in Western Washington, where there isn't much prolonged cold and dry weather, I had no trouble keeping my 3,000-square-foot home at the desired humidity level this past winter, even on 110v. I like that my communicating thermostat can control this unit with a simple plug-and-play connection to the furnace control board, and that it drains automatically during the summer. Now all I want to know is how long the cylinder will last.
This was used to replace a Honeywell model that had been discontinued and died after about 6 months. There are seven winter seasons in total. Because it is hard wired rather than plug-in, this model is a little more difficult to set up. It uses more "consumables" than the previous model, but those consumables are the machine's main operating components, so you're not replacing individual parts as they break down. FYI, this unit does not like RO water; it prefers regular water. I had to replace an old unit that needed RO water.
It consumes far more energy than coil-type steam humidifiers, and the canisters must be replaced at a cost of more than $65 each. With a slight increase in humidity, it becomes more expensive to operate. Honeywell's dependability is still up in the air.