Endurance Pro S97009796 Replacement Fan Blower Assembly for Broan Bulb Heaters
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If the crosscheck numbers match and it appears to be the right one, it is.
I couldn't tell you what model numbers it will fit because I don't have that information. There is no way to use the fan's number. I made my decision based on appearance. When making a comparison, be as specific as possible. The design and placement of the squirrel cages are identical. The length and design of the plug cord, for example, are the same.
Older fans cannot be used with new motors. Previous rant can be found here.
You can't seem to locate the fan unit for your model 9714D? What's the full model number for the fan?
Selected User Reviews For Endurance Pro S97009796 Replacement Fan Blower Assembly for Broan Bulb Heaters
To remove the old one, simply unplug it, remove the bottom screw, loosen the top screw, tilt it a little, and pull it out. Simply reverse the steps to put a new one in. I had hoped for a quieter fan than the original, but since it is the same, I can't complain.
We bought this to replace an old Broan bathroom fan with a heat lamp that was making a lot of noise; this motor has a U-shaped bracket, whereas ours had an L-shaped bracket. The motor fit into the old L bracket perfectly, but the fan squirrel cage that came with it was far too large. We installed the old squirrel cage on this motor and discovered that we required some additional clearance. We added a few washers to the bracket to move the motor back 1/8" and it was done! The fan noise in the bathroom is no longer audible! Others may have a newer Broan that accepts the U-shaped bracket, making installation easier.
Change is very simple. You'll need a short screwdriver with a 1/4" socket or a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the motor mount screws with the head on the end. Remove the bulb, remove the fan cover (unhook the springs inside the housing), unplug the motor, loosen the upper screw on the motor mount (don't remove this one because it will be difficult to get back in), and then remove the lower screw. Remove the motor by rotating the housing slightly to dislodge the mount from the upper screw. Install a new motor by reversing the steps. It took me about 5 minutes (though I was completely covered in dust by the end). Step 0 should be added: First, clean the dust from the old motor. br>br>It fits exactly like the one I took out, and I'm hoping it lasts another 18 years. br>br>Downside: It's still as noisy as the original motor was when it was new, and it doesn't pull air very well, but that's probably due to the original motor design. A better motor (quieter and with more suction) would be worth the extra money. Are you hearing me, Broan?.
I copied some important information from a reviewer named Eric Chung, and here it is: br>br>There's a good chance the vent's wiring is copper. The wiring, on the other hand, is aluminum in this product. DO NOT SOLDER OR CONNECT a piece of aluminum to a piece of copper. They heat at different temperatures, and moisture will corrode the wiring if your fan is in a bathroom. I'm not an electrician, just so you know. However, after doing some research, you'll need to purchase copper to aluminum connectors. There are only a few reliable proprietary brands, but a quick search will reveal the purple connection cones that work. (Thank you for the information, Eric. ) br>Oh, and one more thing, I had to reverse the engine rotation; it's simple; remove the nuts and bolts holding the shaft's bearings in place and reverse it; your fan should now be spinning clockwise when viewed from behind the motor. I'm hoping it lasts as long as the last one did.
This was a great replacement for our 1980 home's heat lamp/light setup, which is common in older homes. br>br>However, if you don't have an outlet behind your heat lamp cover (perhaps the previous owners modified it), you'll need to solder/connect the wires. br>br>There's a good chance the vent's wiring is copper. The wiring, on the other hand, is aluminum in this product. DO NOT SOLDER OR CONNECT a piece of aluminum to a piece of copper. They heat at different temperatures, and moisture will corrode the wiring if your fan is in a bathroom. I'm not an electrician, just so you know. However, after doing some research, you'll need to purchase copper to aluminum connectors. There are only a few reliable proprietary brands, but a quick search will reveal the purple connection cones that work. br>br>The fan is still going strong after two months, and it's even better than the original. It's said that it's very loud here. That's most likely due to the acoustics of your vents. I put the fan in a wall outlet to see if it worked. It was very quiet. So the noise isn't coming from the fan, unless it's broken.
I tried to save money by buying a used part, but it didn't come with the wheel house. I exchanged it for a new one that was complete and didn't have any missing pieces. Don't get too caught up in the process. To replace the old fan, simply unplug it and loosen or remove the bracket screws. You're done once you've plugged in the new fan and tightened the bracket screws. The new fan comes with its own bracket and wheelhouse.
This motor was designed to replace a motor that was more than 20 years old. It was a simple task to replace it. Turn off the power and clean the inside of the housing to locate the two metal screws that hold the motor assembly in place. Remove the old fan and replace it with a new one, as well as the screws. Make sure the new fan is plugged into the outlet. The motor alone is available on Amazon for around $28. The issue I discovered was that the fan blades were extremely dry, brittle, and on the verge of cracking, so I decided to purchase the entire unit, which included a new mounting bracket, blade, and mounting bracket. You'll have to use your old fan blade and mounting bracket if you just get the motor.
To begin with, the cost is exorbitant. Bathroom exhaust fans appear to be absurdly overpriced at the moment. br>Additional Information - Attempting to replace motors in 25-year-old fans that have become worn out. New assemblies necessitate sheetrock, duct, and wiring modifications, as well as attic access, so they're not an option. They're also ridiculously expensive. I paid the price for this motor assembly because it appeared to be viable. Finally, the shaft is the same diameter as before, but it is an inch too long, and the blower is too narrow. Installed the old bracket and blower after cutting the shaft down and regrounding a keying flat on it. I used to be able to buy entire exhaust fan assemblies for $25 and just steal the fan and blower out of them. br>I used to be able to buy entire exhaust fan assemblies for $25 and just steal the Fan and blower out of them. br> All of the new stuff is designed to take a lot of time and effort to set up, and it's not even compatible with the old stuff.