YYST 20 3/16" Deep Water Long Grip Tri-Grip Tri-Fold Tri Bulb Mounting Rivet - All Aluminum for Installing Kayak, Canoe and Boat Accessories
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When it comes to rivets, there are a few things to keep in mind. The rivet can be made of steel, aluminum, or other materials, but these are made of aluminum and are strong enough to hold accessories like a Scotty Rod Holder. Another consideration is the size of the rivet hole that must be drilled. These rivets require a 3/16" hole, which necessitates the use of a drill and bit. The grip range is also something to think about. The grip range of these rivets is 1/6" to 1/8". 4MM - 1/2" 12MM)". This means that the pieces you're putting together have to fit within this range. Kayak hulls equipped with a Scotty Rod Holder usually fall into this category. This works great unless the kayak or other material is extremely thick. My kayaks have a base that is probably 1/4" to 3/8" thick. I haven't taken precise measurements, but it's something to keep in mind. This will necessitate the use of a rivet tool. The black section is inserted into the hull and base of the ship. The tool grabs the'silver' part of the rivet and pulls it through, breaking the'silver' part off and leaving only the black section with the ball at the end of the'silver' part. A good tool will work with a variety of sizes of'silver' parts for other riveting needs. It'll also last a lifetime if you don't take care of it. Mine is at least 20 years old, and I use it almost every year to add kayaks to my collection. Mine has a pivoting head that allows it to be used in various positions. Will they be able to get their hands on a Scotty Rod Holder? Yes, absolutely! I own four kayaks, each of which has at least one base. I use them to hold rods, safety flags, antennas, and other deck loops. The base is very secure because it has four mounting holes for the rivets. This type of rivet is used by the majority of kayak shops I deal with. br>It's worth noting that these rivets have a triangular shape. design with folds These are appealing to me because the materials are held together in three directions. On my kayaks, I never use rivets without this feature. Finally, when inserting a rivet, I use marine goop to seal the hole. It aids in the prevention of minor water seepage. However, it isn't particularly significant. br>These would be perfect for stocking stuffers!
When you rivet it in, it pushes the o-ring out. Make it worthless by ringing it out. I didn't put the o- in these. I used the rings on two different kayak rigs and they worked fine after a little marine goop was applied to the top of the rivet. I would have done it regardless of the o- ring.
Remove the rubber o-rings and see if that helps. ring. I'd try expanding a rivet that isn't on your yak. I have a tamarack, and I'm pretty sure the rivets aren't long enough to get through the hole/hardware in the kayak's frame and expand. They were able to ring the bell, and it was successful. If that's of any assistance, After installation, I'd use silicone to waterproof the rivet head. Because of the o- If the ring is missing, it will be unable to perform its function. See if you can expand one rivet by wasting it on nothing. Apart from the fact that your rivet gun is missing the correct size bit, I'm not sure what else to say. I hope this clears things up for you.
I wouldn't use them on the ribs in the bottom of a jon boat, but they'd be perfect for attaching handles, rigging, and other items.
Selected User Reviews For YYST 20 3/16" Deep Water Long Grip Tri-Grip Tri-Fold Tri Bulb Mounting Rivet - All Aluminum for Installing Kayak, Canoe and Boat Accessories
I'm the only person I've seen on here who has used these for their anchor trolley (pulley) system. If it doesn't work, I can always open up the 3/16" holes to 3/8" and use the well nuts, but these pop rivets fit perfectly and appear to be very secure. When expanded, the flared end has a diameter of 3/8 to 1/2" and lies perfectly flat and is locked in place. The shanks on these rivets were reportedly breaking off too soon, according to some reports. This has not been an issue for me. I pull the rivet slowly and incrementally with a harber freight pop riveter with the proper diameter tip. I reset the tip of the pop riveter against the rivet after each incremental pull, and repeat until the rivet is fully pulled and snaps. I've 100% completed about ten of these pop rivets successfully. Everything is very tight because the rivet's shank breaks off perfectly flush with the head of the rivet. Will this rivet last for a long time? We'll have to wait and see.
I bought these to use as mounts for various items on my kayak, and after mounting a rod holder base, it is rock solid. Just keep o- in mind. When using these to seal the rivets' drilled pilot holes, make sure the rings are in the right place. I slid the o- in front of the o- in front of the o- in Remove the ring from each rivet, insert the rivet into each hole on the piece to be mounted, and then slide the o-ring over the rivets. Return the o-rings to the rivet in this manner, and the o-rings will be protected. The rings are on the side of the pilot holes that will come into contact with the surface.
These marine rivets are excellent for attaching accessories like carry handles to my Kayak. They're all made of aluminum and include a gasket. I strongly advise against using the gasket because the pressure applied to it may cause it to fit crookedly. Instead, use silicone. br>br>When installing the rivets, make sure to drill a 3/16th size hole and use a small amount of silicone under the rivet head as well as around the drill hole. Put a touch of silicone in the rivet hole as well to make it 100% water proof after installing the rivet. Then use rubbing alcohol and a towel to wipe away any excess silicone sealant. br>br>I like how the rivet shafts on these break low, making silicone filling easier. Breaking flush does not help with water proofing and makes it more difficult to apply a clean silicone sealant flush over the rivet hole. br>br>The best bang for your buck in marine grade tri-folding chairs. rivets that are folded.
These have never caused me any problems. The rivets are outstanding. These have never caused me any problems. They have an infinitely better hold than regular aluminum or steel rivets from the hardware store. These haven't caused any problems for my manual riveter. br>br>I intend to purchase more for my two new kayaks as well as accessories. br>br>**Please mark this review as helpful if it aided you in making a purchase decision.
My truck's hard tri fold tonneau cover was repaired with these. I had overfilled the truck bed at the end of the vacation, and when I closed the cover, the latch caught, but the items in the bed put too much pressure on the cover, ripping the latching mechanism from it. I tried regular pop rivets, but this cover is mostly foam with a thin aluminum layer on top. Within a few days, they were almost completely gone. Before riveting, I tried using an adhesive, but it had no effect. These spread out nicely inside the cavity, up against the thin aluminum, and have remained secure for nearly a year. Unfortunately, I mismeasured and these are slightly too tall to fit inside the cover, so when I used them, I drilled new holes in the top of the cover. Those, on the other hand, were a breeze to fix with epoxy.
Even though they have an O-ring, these rivets on newer fiberglass RVs are a great way to attach awning rails on the walls, solar panel brackets on the roof, and so on. You'll still need to use a proper sealant if you use these to keep the water out. They won't back out over time, unlike screws, and they'll stay put even if there's no structural frame member behind the roof or wall skin.
The product is excellent. Rivot tail popped open, and the stem snapped cleanly. The orings around the rivot head can also be seen. I used them as pad eyes on my kayak, and they seemed to be quite durable. Let us now hope that they can maintain their strength for a long time.
So far, they've managed to pick up the 40-pound kayak using the tracks and rod holders. The only thing I didn't like about it was that when the rivet broke, it broke very deep inside the plastic, which was a little alarming. It does not snap off flush with the top like regular metal rivets. To be on the safe side, I used a marine-grade silicone sealant.
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