YYST 2 Kayak Canoe Boat Course Thread Drain Plug with Screws
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It would work for that, but I keep this plug in a location on my kayak that isn't submerged when I'm using it. br>It attaches to the kayak's top. If you're going to use it as a regular drain plug that'll be submerged when the boat's in use, I'd recommend using silicon between the plug and the boat to help seal it. Otherwise, I don't see why this plug shouldn't be used for that. Good Luck
It can be self-installed and should fit on any kayak. I put mine on top to keep it from leaking if it didn't work. It is unquestionably effective for draining.
Any kayak should be able to use this plug. It appears to be a universal fit, in my opinion.
There are no instructions provided. Drill one large hole for the drain, then two small holes for the rivets or screws that will hold the drain plug in place.
Selected User Reviews For YYST 2 Kayak Canoe Boat Course Thread Drain Plug with Screws
They're of decent quality. The rivets were used, and they appear to have come with the kayak. One minor suggestion: the foam sealer should have holes. One was taken by the drill, which messed it up. Fortunately, I ordered two packages to ensure that I had a backup. If you need a way to secure your kayaks, these and the Master Lock Python are a great combination.
These were purchased to replace the dreadful drain plugs that came with my Club Clean golf club. Because the plug would pop out every time I cleaned a club because it was hit by the club, I used golf ball washers. I went over the reviews. I thought this model in particular would be ideal, so I started with my old Club Clean unit (in case I made a mistake). Everything seemed promising at first, with the exception that I had to slightly widen the hole in the Club Clean in order for this to fit. I used the included pop rivets, which appeared to work, so I moved on to my more recent unit, which went even more smoothly. Great. Fill it with warm water and place it back on its mount. I kept an eye on it as it poured out from beneath the washer. There are fewer screws. in addition to that, from the middle of each pop rivet It also leaked from beneath the main foam gasket. br>I purchased garden hose washers, stainless steel screws, and matching bolts to seal the plug. a set of flat washers Join the plug assembly to the Club Clean with tape. I drilled out the pop rivets and cut the new screws down to size (I didn't want my clubs scratched). put together br>Side note: This turned out to be a fairly large project, but it now works perfectly. br> Despite the fact that I am not a tradesman, I am quite handy. For the past 30 years, I've had great success with pop rivets.
If you're putting the kayak together out of fiberglass, you'll have to use rivets instead of screws. A rivet gun is required for this project. These plugs can be installed perfectly if you have this and some clear silicon putty or glue. It's crucial to put things together in the right order. Take out the screw first. The larger diamond-shaped unit's plug has been plugged in. Then, on top of the pointed end of the kayak, drill a large central hole for the plug and check that it fits snugly. After that, press the unit into the hole and drill the two smaller holes for the rivets on each side. Remove the unit, apply a generous amount of silicon, and replace it with the rivets in place. There are several YouTube videos that show how to install rivets like these if you haven't done so before. Put the screw back in place. in plug.
Please follow my advice! I purchased these to use on our Old Town Vapor kayaks, which did not come equipped with a drain plug from the factory. They were designed to fit into the factory's recessed mounting position. Because the drain plug's outer diameter is 15/16", use a 15/16" drill bit (rather than a 1") to ensure a secure fit. If you have a foam pad, make sure to use it. To get the rivets to fit through the foam pad, you'll need to punch holes, but it worked out perfectly. I was initially skeptical because the foam pad should have been about 2/3 the thickness, but it compressed well. Before installing, a dab of RTV silicone on the rivet holes and around the drain plug hole is a good precaution to take. The trifold rivets popped easily and were extremely secure. On a polyethylene kayak, I strongly advise using the rivets. Self-tapping screws are prone to stripping during installation and will not hold tight over time. Finally, a week after I put these in, I placed a second order. why? To ensure that I have extra drain plugs in case I lose one in the future. Some plugs are incompatible with others. The drain plug is a little too long, so it sits 'proud' inside the kayak. br>br>The only complaint I have about these items is that the drain plug is a little too long. When you go to drain the boat, you won't be able to get all of the water out. In retrospect, I should have filed the drain plug down slightly to make it flush with the inside of the drain.
This item was exactly as described in the listing. On two of my sons' Old Town Heron XTs, I installed this at the very tip of the bow, in the same location as the factory plug on my Old Town Loon 126. There was just enough space to mount, as you can see in the photo. For the main plug hole in the yak, I used a 7/8" hole saw, which was slightly too small, so I simply filed the edges to make it fit snugly. I also used the rivets that came with the kit, which worked well. The only con I can think of is the flimsy plug retainer arms, which I believe will break if overtorqued; just be careful not to leave the plug dangling while moving or loading the yak. I'll probably get a second set just in case I break or lose one, but for the price, these are hard to beat.
I put one drain plug in each cockpit to lock my kayaks to a tree, sign, fence post, or whatever I can so that no one steals them while dropping off the pickup vehicle. I used a dremmel, but it would have been a much faster process with a hole saw bit for a drill, but it was still super simple and straight forward. Also provides excellent peace of mind while being stored when not in use.
Installing it was a breeze. 3 holes should be drilled: 15/16 or 1 inch for the body, and 1/8 inch for the screws (my kayak is at least 1/8 inch thick, so rivets were unnecessary). Another reviewer pointed out that the tube was long enough to protrude inside the kayak, preventing it from draining completely, so I cut about 1/8" off, which seems to be just right.
This is a direct replacement for my son's kayak, which I purchased. I assumed I'd have to drill out the rivets and install the entire plug set, but I was only able to use the portion I needed, and it fit perfectly into the old socket!.
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