Shimano Acera Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur
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First and foremost, I disagree with the previous response to this question, which stated that Altus was designed to work better with "larger cogs on the low end." There are two versions of the Altus: the 280 and the more popular 310, which can be found on many entry-level cars. mountain bikes from level bike store Both of the jockey wheels on the Altus 280 and the Acera will have 13 teeth. The Altus 310 is a popular model with a 13-inch display. with a 15-tooth upper a lower jockey wheel with teeth that is quieter and smoother That's what my Diamondback Response MTB came with out of the box, and I'm very impressed. I quickly upgraded the Tourney on my hybrid to the Altus 310 after receiving this bike. The Altus 310 is ideal for my needs. While both Altus RDs are designed as long cages, the 280, with its 13 tooth lower wheel, is better suited for larger diameter "granny" gears, while the 310 will work fine up to 34-inch diameter gears. tooth. The 310 is an excellent multi-purpose machine. RD's main goal The 13-inch wheel spins faster, making it noisier. For serious mountain biking where "snappier" shifting is required, the tooth lower pulley of the Acera and Altus 280 would be the better choice. If you want something even faster (and noisier), the Alivio has an 11-second response time. Two jockey wheels have teeth on them. I'll stick with the smooth, quiet Altus 310 for my hard pack and commuting needs. There's a reason why you'll see this on a lot of bike store bikes. However, it is dependent on your individual requirements. Acera/Alivio is a good option for serious mountain bikes.
Yes, the M360 has the same eight-speed derailleur as the M360.
An rd-m360 was delivered to me.
Yes. I ride my children's bicycles to do it.
Selected User Reviews For Shimano Acera Mountain Bike Rear Derailleur
I purchased the M360 Rear Derailleur/Rear Mech (RD or RM) to replace an old SRAM Rear Derailleur that had seen better days. The RD-type was used. For about a year, the M360 Rear Derailleur worked fine, but after a year of use, I noticed the cage was shaking, and after reading my Park Tool BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB- BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB-BBB- 3 After watching several Park Tool Rear Derailleur adjustment and advanced troubleshooting videos and inspecting my own RD, I noticed that the cage was shaky but not badly, so I decided to just buy a new RD. Instead of upgrading, I simply purchased a new Acera RD-100. Instead, opt for the M360. Now, I'll most likely upgrade to Alivio in the future; however, this RD currently meets all of my requirements. It's not the highest-end Shimano groupset, like the XTR, which is geared more towards people who are racing and super serious about biking as a sport, but it's perfect for average everyday riders like myself who just want to ride for fun. This RD, as well as my FD-model companion, My Shimano FC-M360 (Front Derailleur) and M360 (Front Derailleur) M361 42- Shimano BB- 22 triple crankset 68 x 122, UN55 The bottom bracket has a 5-square taper and the top bracket has an 11-square taper. Shimano HG-28 is a 28-speed gearbox from Shimano. Shimano CN-51 cassette and Shimano CN- All of this is thanks to the HG71 chain, as well as the Shimano BL- The T4000 set and the BR- Shimano SL-M brakes and T4000 brake set The RS45 twist shifter on my Specialized Classic Hardrock hardtail is pretty awesome, and it makes for a super awesome ride, so this RM meets all of my needs, and it's great for the Average Everyday rider. This Shimano Rear Derailleur, as well as all of the products mentioned above, comes highly recommended. You will not be disappointed if you purchase this.
On my hardtail mountain bike, I had one of these, or something similar, and I went through some super sticky mud followed by gravel. As a result, Gravel became stuck in the mud, jamming the chain and pulling the derailleur into the spokes of the back wheel. I bought this to replace the derailleur that had been destroyed. It was simple to set up and align. I've ridden the bike with this derailleur a number of times and am generally satisfied. br>br>Here's why it's not a five-star movie. When shifting, it's a little clumsy, and the bike chain bounces a little. a lot. For a component of this quality, all of this is standard behavior. br>br>Here's why it's not a three-star movie. It accomplishes the task at hand and is reasonably priced, as well as performing admirably for a low-cost component. You get what you pay for, and in this case, this is a reasonably priced component.
On my Fito Beach Cruiser, I swapped out a Tourney derailler for the Acera. The Tourney struggled with the upshifts because it's a crank forward bike. When I installed the Acera, I noticed how much better tension it has than the Tourney, which is why I believe it works so much better with the longer chains that crank forward bikes require. The transitions are consistent and smooth. Under load, this derailler performs admirably. Don't be afraid to put a lot of effort into your pedaling. I strongly advise anyone with a Tourney derailler who is experiencing shifting issues to try this.
There isn't much to say about this because it's a derailleur, so here's a list of points. br>br>*It's simple to install. br>br>*The adjustments on this derailleur are excellent; you won't need to re-adjust it very often. With how much adjustment is possible on this, seat the cable during installation. br>br>*It has a nice feel to it and a break point (plastic bolt) to protect the derailleur in the event of a mishap. br>br>*It is inexpensive. br>br>Installing a derailleur for the first time is simple, but there are no instructions included with this derailleur. If you go to YouTube and play around with the settings, you'll have this thing up and running in no time, but be prepared for a lot of back-and-forth. If you're not used to it, you'll have to do some back-and-forth tuning. br>br>Overall, I give it a 5 star rating because it does exactly what it says it will do, with good overall quality, easy adjustment, and a price that will make your wallet happy. Obviously, there are better derailleurs, but when you consider their prices and the quality of this, I think it's a tough sell for a general cyclist to go with anything else.
My old Deore XT was starting to show its age, and even with the tiniest amount of gear wear, I was getting chain skip on the 11T cog. (The old XT version was designed for 6 speeds and predates my relatively new 8 speed cluster. ) )br>br>I bought this because the Deore XT equivalent is too expensive for me right now. It bolted on to the frame with ease and aligned perfectly, much to my relief. (The limit screws did, however, need to be adjusted. ) )br>br>I discovered that it lays more chain under and over the small 11T cog, which has caused the skipping to stop. br>br>I also like how it is less difficult to shift in terms of force. (I'm using Shimano's non-index thumb levers from the 1970s and 1980s. ) )br>br>I'd also like to mention that the silver version is currently half the price of the black version. This silver version appeals to me because it includes black in key areas. (In the dirtiest area, this version is black. ) )br>br>I've only been on one ride so far, but it's been fantastic.
On my mountain bike, I had a Shimano Tourney TX 8s derailleur that decided it didn't want to be a derailleur and instead wanted to be a wheel. It was a disaster. With the explosion of biking during the pandemic, derailleurs, especially 8s and 9s derailleurs, are hard to come by, and this option allowed me to get back on the trails about 2 weeks ahead of what my LBS had to offer. Furthermore, this was roughly the same cost as purchasing a Tourney TX 8s derailleur, so I was able to upgrade for roughly the same cost as repairing to the same quality. br>br>I've been pleased with its performance, but keep in mind that this is a beginner's derailleur. In the future, I plan on upgrading my entire MTB. If you want to upgrade, I'd recommend Deore (Shimano) or, if you're willing to make the leap, entry-level SRAM. Just keep in mind that each brand of shifter pulls a different amount of cable, so they're unlikely to be compatible if the brands don't match.
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