Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade, 2.4-Inch
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For whittling, this is an excellent knife. It's the best of all my knives, in my opinion. The Mora 106 is a larger blade that some people prefer. I believe the 106 is adequate for roughing out your piece, but the 120 is capable of doing so and is small enough to handle the majority of the detail carving you will likely perform. It comes razor sharp, and if you use a leather strop with compound, you can keep it that way. Only one side of the blade is beveled, which is exactly what you need for carving. A double-beveled knife, like the ones Mora makes, isn't as well suited. When I first started using it, I got a few scars. Did I say it'll hit you like a ton of bricks? Purchase it and experience carving like you've never experienced before.
Yes, this blade's sheath is too long: Mora uses a generic sheath, and many reviewers consider the sheath to be the only flaw in the knife package. It does a good job of retaining even this small knife. IN REGARD TO BLADE LENGTH: Bushcrafters who are also carvers or who want to skin small game or use as a paring knife in camp prefer this length and shape: For a convincing demonstration of what this knife can do in the hands of an outdoorsman, go to SWEDWOODS on YouTube.
It all depends on the carving he's attempting. As a general carving knife, this is a great place to start; forks, spoons, and handles for various tools can all be done with this knife; however, carving spoons is much easier with a curved knife. You can get one for about the same price as this knife, but I recommend getting one with a righty or lefty blade rather than the double sided blade. If he wants to carve more complex shapes, such as faces, he'll need more blade options. All in all, this knife is a low-cost way for him to see if he enjoys the hobby enough to continue investing in it. Buy him some carving gloves as a special gift. Ask any carver how many times they've cut themselves while working on a project because they didn't take the extra three seconds to put on gloves.
Mora responds in this manner. I'd say that's covered under warranty; we'd need a photo of the damaged knife, and it'd be good to get the knife back for replacement. Please let me know how you'd like to go about this.
Selected User Reviews For Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade, 2.4-Inch
Mora's is known for its carving, and for good reason. In terms of quality and craftsmanship, they are exceptional. WARNING! br>br> However, I must issue a cautionary statement. If you buy it, make sure the sheath has a velcro strap or throw it out and make your own. This sheath is of poor quality and is very inexpensive. If the knife isn't JAMMED tight in there, it has a tendency to fall out. Because there are no leverage notches like the other mora sheaths, it's so tight that you risk injuring yourself trying to get the knife out. br>br>On the day I got it, the knife fell out on me. It wasn't properly secured in the sheath, and when it fell out, it struck my hand, cutting my pinky finger all the way to the tendon! Keep an eye on it.
This is an excellent whittling knife with a comfortable handle that will allow you to carve for hours. Every hour or so of whittling, give the blade a good stropping to keep it razor sharp. The tip is ideal for fine detail work and deep cuts, and it retains its edge even when carving hardwood thanks to the excellent steel. The thick, rounded back (spine) reduces wear and tear on your thumb when you're pushing. For roughing out work, the blade size can remove wood quickly. br>br>If I had to choose just one wood carving knife, this would be it. Be safe; Maintain the sharpness of your knives by wearing a glove on your non-dominant hand. Enjoy whittling with your knife hand.
Outstanding! This is exactly the size I needed, and Mora's quality and sharpness are legendary, so I won't go into detail. br>br>This knife is comfortable in every way, from the wide rounded handle to the curved spine; I'm still new to carving, but I've never tried a knife that was as comfortable to thumb push with as this one. br>br>I simply lightly stropped it whenever I wasn't sure what to do next, and it remained RAZOR sharp even after carving on a very dry and hard scrap of pine lumber. br>br>Attached are photos of testing on a particularly challenging piece of wood. Pine lumber that is extremely dry.
My mistake was using it incorrectly, and the tip snapped, but the rest of the blade is fine. I've been carving out paiute deadfalls and other primitive traps with it since then. It cuts through butter like a kinfe and was delivered quickly. My only gripe is the cheap plastic sheath that came with it. Flismsy doesn't have a good grip on the knife and can't keep it secure in the sheath. When turned at a slight downward angle, it simply falls out, and with a knife this sharp, an accident is a foregone conclusion. To avoid a bloody and untimely end for my foot, I made a leather sheath for it.
Any artist or wood carver's tool set should include a carving knife of some sort. br>br>Unlike most knives, all Mora knives come sharp and ready to use right out of the box. br>br>However, you will eventually have to learn how to sharpen it. You could go a long time without sharpening it if you give it a few passes on a strop each time you put it away (the inside of a cardboard cereal or cracker box makes an excellent strop). br>br>The knife is Swedish, not Swiss, as some may believe, and the laminated steel maintains a razor-sharp edge. br>br>The blade is flat with a "Scandi-style" pattern. There are no microbes in the grind", which means there are no microbes in the grind. The knife's edge has a bevel, resulting in a razor-sharp, easy-to-maintain blade. br>br>The sheath, which is the same plastic sheath Mora uses for all of their classic, red-handled knives, is the only thing I don't like. handled knives, which compete with Stanley Box-style knives for the same market. Cutters occupy the following positions in the United States: It's a construction/tradesman's knife, so it's a perfectly functional and utilitarian sheath that's friction-free. br>br>As a result, it's a perfect functional and utilitarian sheath that's friction-free. fit, a smidgeon of ugliness, and a pittance of money I'm looking at it, and it's what it is, I suppose. One of the reasons for the knives' low price is because of this. It will protect your blade and fingers while also making it easier to transport the knife, but it is a one-time use item. one-size-fits-all All Mora sheaths are unattractive and will not win any beauty contests. br>br>I adore the handle; the natural wood grain adds just the right amount of texture, and the wide belly makes it easy to grip. br>br>As for the lack of any kind of finger guard, I suppose we'd all be safer if we all wore helmets 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The simple fact is that you shouldn't need a guard unless you're going to be stabbing with the knife a lot. My kitchen is full of sharp knives with no guard, and I'm sure yours is too. br>br>Are you one of those people who cuts themselves a lot? I don't think so. A finger guard on a carving knife simply gets in the way, limiting the types of cuts that can be made. If you have to, you can buy an incredibly overpriced "carving glove" that makes it difficult to hold the wood or your knife, or you can cut the thumb off an old leather glove from the garage and wear it on the thumb of your knife-holding hand, which is where the real danger is anyway. br>br>Mora is a fantastic knife, and it is frequently the first brand of knife that people see for themselves what a good knife can be. It isn't as flashy or pricey as today's tacti- cool B. Its simple, understated design is deceptively lithe and comfortably "full" in the hand, as well as being extremely lightweight. br>br>In terms of upkeep, this knife is sharper out-of-the-box. the- I've never personally handled a new knife that came out of the box as well as this one. In fact, it has surfaced. the- Sharper than almost any knife I've ever sharpened myself. There is, however, room for improvement even here: Purchase a white or green porter-style stick. Make a strop out of the inside of an old cereal box (you can YouTube this if you're not sure) and cable buffing compound for $2 (one stick should last you 20 years). br>br>Stropping is essential for keeping a screaming-free zone. carving-style, sharp After each carving session, this simple and quick process should only take about 30 seconds. When I first started carving, I discovered that stropping, on a scale of one to ten, was the most difficult thing for me to do. If you strop your blade regularly, say 10 times on each side after every other carving session, you could go months or years without needing to sharpen with a stone. br>br>If you strop your blade regularly, say 10 times on each side after every other carving session, you could go months or years without needing to sharpen with a stone. br>br>Once again, a fantastic knife.
I'm new to spoon carving and decided to order this knife on the spur of the moment; it arrived today and I've already used it. Other reviews claimed that the knives people received were dull, but this knife is razor sharp in my hands. The edge is capable of cutting paper without tearing it. Simply place the point against a sheet of paper and move it around to cut it through. More importantly, the blade is capable of carving my oak spoon. The width of the blade's spine, or back, was the next pleasant surprise while using this knife. When carving, I like to rest my thumb against the knife's spine, and the width made this a lot easier. br>Overall, I bought this because it was readily available and reasonably priced, and I was pleasantly surprised by its sharpness and sturdy construction. br>I'll recommend it to anyone I know who wants to learn how to carve.
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