Shoreline Marine Bilge Pump Switch 3-Way Panel
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I hope this information is useful.br>1. Splice suitable lengths of brown and black 16-gauge wire together. Connect a gauge wire to the existing pumpbr>wiring, long enough to reach the ON/OFF/AUTO switch, the automatic float switch, and the battery.
2. When using insulated terminal connectors, keep the following in mind: Connect the ON/OFF/AUTO switch's positive lead (brown) to it. br>Connect the negative (-) lead to the negative (-) lead. ) terminal of the battery Splice the fuse holder into the positive lead (brown) in a convenient location for changing fuses. The fuse holder should be placed within 72" (183 cm) of the positive () battery terminal. Connect the remaining lead from the fusebr>holder to the three-pronged positive () terminal of the three-pronged positive () terminal of the three-pronged positive () terminal of switch in both directions
3. Splice the automatic float switch's remaining positive lead (brown) into the pump's positive lead (brown).
5 inches long by 2 inches wide by 2 inches deep.
It's a two-pole switch with a circuit breaker and a few lights on it. The power enters the switch through the middle lug, with one side going directly to the pump and the other through the float switch for the "Auto" side.
Selected User Reviews For Shoreline Marine Bilge Pump Switch 3-Way Panel
As expected, it functions properly. The lack of a proper wiring diagram is one of the reasons I downgraded it from 5 to 4 stars. The automatic is on the right side of the face, while the manual is on the left. However, due to the way the switch works, the wire for the manual is on the right and the wire for the automatic is on the left when the switch is facing you. It worked properly after I swapped those two wires. The pump turns on when the switch is set to manual. If you set it to auto, it won't turn on until the float rises.
This is the first time I've used it. The manual versus auto wiring diagram is backwards, as mentioned in another review. Simply connect your pump's automatic side to the switch's right side as you face it. br>br>I initially mistook the translucent plastic button on the right for a master switch, but it is actually the breaker reset. It's nice not to have to carry a spare fuse with you. br>br>As I was hooking up the switch 15 feet away from my pump, the short leads didn't bother me at all. They're long enough to solder on and wrap in heat shrink. br>br>It would be nice if they offered it in a vertical configuration like one other manufacturer, but that's a minor quibble.
In my Whaler, it fits perfectly and is the same size as the OEM. The wiring, on the other hand, seemed backwards to me; the negative side goes from the battery terminal to the fuse, while the load side grounds the leds and returns to the pump. Positive from the battery to the spdt's center post, and each side to the pump (manual) and the float switch (automatic). So far, I'm pleased with the results; we'll see how long it lasts in a bay boat.
This power switch has the fuse on the back end of the circuit, which will not protect anything. With a small change, the fuse can be moved to the front, and the switch will work like a champ. It takes a little while, but it's well worth the effort.
It works well and is a good buy, but the push-button would be more useful. The LED resistors were not held on by connectors that were not soldered to the switch. After ripping the tab off while attempting to remove the connector, I had to replace the switch.
Although I dislike the fact that the circuit breaker is on the negative side, it will still trip if an overcurrent condition occurs.
The lights do not work on either the manual or automatic side of the switch after I installed it. The pumps are controlled and work properly, but I have no way of knowing if something isn't working because there are no lights. If the switch is set to auto, the green light should stay on, indicating that the circuit is at least turned on. I can't seem to find anything about the manufacturer or get in touch with technical support; does anyone know how I can get in touch with technical support?.
It was built very cheaply, and it was not a good deal! I actually bought two of them that were identical. When the first one arrived, it was broken, and when I tried to remove the clip, it came apart. There will be no third installment. It was built very cheaply, and it was not a good deal!.
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