Trac Outdoors High-Current Connector Kit, 8 Gauge - Upgrade Your Trolling Motor Connectors to High-Current 12V or 24V Power - For 60 Amp 12/24/36V Power (69441)
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You either have a faulty plug or the wiring is a mess. Just switch the wires on one side if the connections are reversed and you should be good.
I can tell you how it will work based on you 8 is the smallest size. You can use the larger number (6 would work as well), but 8 is the ideal size. If you have any further questions, please feel free to call TRAC directly. Contact us at (615) 462-5321 From 9 to 4 Central time, call 624. Both Pat and I will be there.
We do not recommend that you go over 8 gauge wire. If you have any further questions, you can call us at (615) 462-8219. Please accept my sincerest regards, Patricia
There is a cap on it when not being used. In addition, if it didn't seem to be on and water got into each socket side, it would have nowhere to go, because it is vulcanized. It does not seem to be a problem to me. As for mine, it is on my boat and is not vertical, rather it is angled upward. I have never had a problem with it.
Selected User Reviews For Trac Outdoors High-Current Connector Kit, 8 Gauge - Upgrade Your Trolling Motor Connectors to High-Current 12V or 24V Power - For 60 Amp 12/24/36V Power (69441)
A durable connector to connect solar panels to solar generators (a fancy term for portable batteries) was what I was looking for. To me, I wanted a crimping tool that has a weatherproof casing and strain relief that doesn't require proprietary tools, as well as something that protects the hot lead from incidental contact. My opinion of the Trac connector/plug is the same as yours. All of them are covered in weatherproof material. Connecting the cable to the cable is accomplished through a crimped butt connector and From the plug to the butt connector, the lead wire is tinned copper wire with 105C insulation. Despite the fact that the crimps are well executed, I would prefer them to not crimp with a metal Heat shrink is damaged by a ditch-crimp, as it results in a pin hole on the outside. It seems that every plug and socket I've tried for this project has been rejected for one reason or another (not weatherproof, exposed wire, poorly designed, inconsistent sizing, poorly executed, no strain relief, etc. ). There have been close to $200 worth of wasted time and money. I also have a box of trac connectors that I couldn't find. It is the Trac connector box that I will keep until someone else comes up with something better. One of the other ones will go into the garbage.
They are very versatile and I really liked the idea behind them. Because they could be mounted on the surface or flush with the wall, I like them. I don't have any concerns about their connection as they snap together well. In spite of that, there are quite a few shortcomings that let them fall short of being a great product.
• The heat shrink tubing on the connector came with a hole in it after crimping. The hole is useless. It is too easy for the connector to fall out of the flush mount. This piece is supposed to click into place, but it doesn't work as expected. There is no tether for the caps, which means they will easily fall off since they are poorly crimped. This is a fancy Anderson style connector which is difficult to lose. It would be great if they sold a version that I could attach the ends myself and not have to use a buttsplice. I would probably make the switch to a twist lock connection the next time I purchase a trolling motor.
There may be a way to prevent that from happening if we put a little crimp on that. It has proven useless to use butt plugs with heat shrink on anything but 8 gauge wire. So I ended up cutting them off so that there can be a joint from 8 to 16 gauge. I can assure you that the 6 AWG wire does not heat up when running 50 amperes, which is not the case for some Minn-based conductors Our company has used Kota plugs. The next time I buy these, I'll buy them.
Amperage needed for the project can be handled. Using the hole mount is a bad idea if you plan on using it. There is no way to keep the plug When you push the plug in, the plug comes out the back behind the panel, so you must remove the panel to get it out again. The plug had to be fitted with a very short and very small sheet metal screw through the hole mount housing so it would stay in place when plugged I don't think that will happen if you use the hole mount. The cap and wire are located on one side of one side of the panel, and the other side is on the other side. Now everything works perfectly. I don't expect any problems to occur. This clip is supposed to hold it in place, but has never been tested or designed to accommodate.
Here's a tiny Minn Kota (Riptide 45) powered by a LiFePO4 battery in a plastic ammo box modified so the battery can be held. While the connector kit comes with solid mounts that mount securely to the side of the box (even after mounting, the stainless safety line for the lid is a bit challenging to get back into place after mounting). In addition to the crimp connectors, heavy heating is used I really like shrink tubing that has already been installed. (It would be helpful if you could tell us what size of crimping tool is Vise-grips performed in the absence of that.
The only reason I rated it 4 stars instead of 5 is because the wire was so stiff it was difficult to fit where it was needed. 8 gauge wire is a stiff wire by nature, but the insulation on this was so hard that I had to use a heat gun to soften it so that I could bend it properly. It seems that the connections are very tight, though, and it appears to function properly.
It's nice to be able to connect/disconnect wiring such as a trolling motor easily using these. Plastic caps tend to fall off when the wire holding the caps on pulls through, which may result in their loss. You put the connections at risk of corrosion when you lose the caps. I would recommend either never disconnecting them or liberally lubricating them to prevent corrosion. They work great for disconnecting your trolling motor power, but you'll need to make sure they are completely lubricated to prevent corrosion. use them on a 24 volt Motorguide trolling motor mounted to a 14'6" utility boat with 80# of thrust.
A badly corroded set of plugs on a Saltdogg salt spreader caused me to buy these. It is expensive to replace factory plugs and they last just one or two years. It seems like these plugs are made very well and are sealed well. I like the fact that the dust cap is tethered to them. I think they'll last a very long time. Plugs should remain protected while not in use when this device is present.